Look in your engine bay and you'll see a small black box next to the driver's side strut tower that says 'Diagnosis' on it. Get a paper-clip or a small piece of wire and put one end into the port labelled TE1 and the other end into the port labelled E1 (the labels are found on the underside of the diagnosis box cover, much like a fuse-box).
Turn the key to the 'ON' position, but don't start the engine. If your connections are correct then the check engine light should start flashing. Keep note of how many times it flashes as this is the code it is giving you. For example, if the code was 35 it would flash 3-times, have a short pause, then flash 5 more times, then have a long pause. If it repeats the same code after the long pause then that means it's the only fault detected, if it flashes for a different period of time then that means there is more than one fault. If it flashes continuously with no pauses in between then that means there is no fault detected at all.
ok I got 24 and 31 I don't really understand the chart, what do those codes mean?
That would indicate that there is something wrong with the air temperature sensor that pokes into your airbox (or pipe if you're running an aftermarket induction). It's a little probe-like device that measures the amount of air that passes through the filter and into the throttle body.
There was actually a member on here the other day that also had a code 24 pop up. Have a read of the posts at the bottom of this thread to find out how to test the sensor to see if it's at fault: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t338497-2.html
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Hey - I have a 1993 Corolla LE (1.8), and have been having a problem idling too low and stalling when slowing or stopping, especially when the engine is hot. I just did the check engine code diagnosis and got code 26 - which according to the chart is "Air/Fuel Ratio Rich Indicator, and Cold Start Injector".
I don't really know what this means and how to check on this problem, or what it could be related to. My brother knows more about autos, but doesn't know either. Any insight helps! Thanks in advance.
Your main Oxygen sensor might be shot making the ECU make a poor mixture.If you haven't done a basic tune up I'd do that first to see if it helps at all. Moisture in distributor cap,spark plug gaps too big can cause stalling,Replace your plugs,wires,air filter,distributor cap and rotor if you do the tune -up.Try some injector cleaner they may be clogged or bad gas, water moisture causing it to stall.Idle speed may be in correct,the ECU is preset by the factory but I've heard there are ways it can be tampered or changed.Check for any vacuum leaks in the injection system,manifold and vacuum hoses,valve clearance or timing may be off.Possible things to check : Injector or Injector Circuit,Coolant Temperature sensor or circuit,Oxygen sensor or circuit,Intake air temperature or circuit,Fuel pressure regulator,EVAP System,MAP sensor or circuit ECM/ECU,Air intake system.
Start with the small things like the tune up and fuel injector cleaner first,do these yourself, follow a How to guide,you'll save money,may help your problem and give you some basic Auto skill and confidence.After that if you cannot check the other systems then bring to mechanic for diagnosis or continue searching online for other possible fixes.
I know that this is an old thread, but hopefully someone will be able to help me out. I just tried to get the codes off of our 93 Toyota Corolla LE 1.8. I jumped E1 and Te1, and the CEL started flashing like everyone is saying it should, the only problem is that it's a steady flash and never stops? What does this mean?
My girlfriend blew the motor in the car, so I put a new one in, and it has good compression and starts right up, it only had 91k on the new engine, but when I hit the gas it spits and sputters and acts like it has a really bad misfire. All the plugs are getting good spark, and it is in time also, these were the first things I checks. If I take off slow in it it will go OK, but if I just push the pedal to the floor it just tries to bog out. Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks, do you you have any idea what would cause it to have a horrible misfire? I check the timing, it is in time, I even turned it 180 degrees and tried it just to be 00% sure that wasn't the case, didn't fix it either. It's dangerous to drive right now, it will die when you come to a stop and everything! I really need to get it fixed and soon!
Can you tell if the engine is getting flooded or starved for fuel?
Is your ignition timing set at 10 degrees BTDC with the engine warmed up and E1 and TE1 jumpered?
Some sensor being bad? Poor connection would normally trigger a CEL.
Coolant temp (not the one for the gauge sitting on the water-pump to head neck, but the one for the ECU), throttle position, MAP/MAF?
Perhaps try replacing them with the sensors from the old engine?
It's not overheating or anything, just runs like it's out of time. It was in time, and I set it one tooth out, and it runs better then it did. All the injectors are good, I unplugged those one at a time while it was running and it missed on each one, so all the injectors are firing. It seriously sounds like it's out of time, but it's not. I am just at a dead end right now. How would I check to see if the camshaft position sensor insi the distributor was bad or not? I know it doesn't have a crankshaft position sensor, and I have a spake tps I out in and didn't fix it. I also had another coil I tried and it didn't fix it either.
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1993 Toyota Corolla
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