Toyota Nation Forum banner

AE101/102 20V Blacktop swap info

108K views 86 replies 13 participants last post by  byazdaani 
#1 · (Edited)
due to popular demand i will be creating a semi step by step how to swap i did on my 93 corolla when i swapped in my Blacktop 4age from a AE111 Levin. i performed this swap over a year ago so i maybe missing a few things.

it's done please feel free to ask any questions. i will be more than happy to share what i've learned along this build.


on a side note i'm actually looking at another BT and might pick it up tomorrow. if i do i will make my own wiring harness and share that experience here as well.

thanks, JD
 
#36 · (Edited)
sorry for the delay guys


yes the usdm line bolted to the japan compressor. ( the one i used the usdm line and just repositioned it. a friend of mine used the USDM compressor with a plate to adapt it to the motor. it won't just bolt up or i would have used the USDM one.

I have the 6spd Tranny... My car was Auto but i already install the Clutch pedal & Master... My Engine Swap comes with all the Engine mount attached, the only one that doesn't fit my car was the tranny side... wich one I need to use? from wich car?
i am not 100% sure but i know this guy has a 6 speed in his.
http://trdforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32332

he shows how he modded the shifter as well i think. i would think if you had the trans mount bolted to the trans still it should work. i don't think they would use different mounts on the body. so you may need to track down the trans mount from japan? hope this helps.
 
#38 · (Edited)
i'm not 100% sure. i know the 7afe uses the same plug on the ECU as the BT.
*edit* i checked the pin out on the ST. manual trans ECU uses a 12/16/26 pinouts on the ECU so you will need to mod the harness to make it work. the auto ST harness uses the same pinouts(26/16/22)
i am hoping to make my own harness here shortly so i'll get a better idea of it. i just have to get the plugs(dizzy, coil, ignitor) from the 4 runner. also i found the capacitor that goes by the ignitor and coil on a 94 camry so now i have that too. i also need to check if the plug from a celica manual trans is the same as the plug from the corolla manual trans. manual corolla's are hard to come by, but i know where there is one in the junkyard. i'm planning to pull the pedal and cables and possibly the harness just because they are so rare to come across.
 
#40 · (Edited)
cool. i think you might need to make some mods to make it work. but you should be in good shape if you got the JDM mount.

did some more digging. found if you have a 6th gen and put in the BT/ST trans you might be able to pull out the speedo sending unit from the old trans and use it on the new trans.

http://www.ae82.net/showthread.php?736-gearbox-database

im planning to pull one from a car in the junkyard to verify and once i do i'll post pics.
 
#46 ·
im sure they're out there, but i know japan has them. they are not cheap. new you looking somewhere between $600-1K used you looking between $200-500. and that's before shipping. most people use the oem downtube and go from there.

HKS, fujitsubo are just a couple of them.
 
#48 ·
i was actually thinking of doing something like this eventally, but currently i am open to selling it.


the lights alone won't fit the fenders of an AE101/102. it'd be better as a whole package, lights, fenders, hood, bumper. it is a Levin front end, a couple years before than the one on that wagon. to make it fit an AE101 you will need to do some welding and fitting, which i was getting the parts together to do. if you are serious about it, throw me an offer in PM and we can work on the specifics.:naughty:
 
#55 ·
the harness for a blacktop is almost identical to a 7afe/4afe. silver top is different. you will have to combine to make it work. you can try to do it yourself or source it out to either one of the fore mentioned folks that provide the service. i believe i posted the links to the ECU pin outs. those are the main things you will need to use. just don't cut your original wiring for the body and you should be ok. i am trying to get ahold of another blacktop and once i do i will be making my own harness to see what's involved with it.
 
#58 ·
the harness for a blacktop is almost identical to a 7afe/4afe. silver top is different. you will have to combine to make it work. you can try to do it yourself or source it out to either one of the fore mentioned folks that provide the service. i believe i posted the links to the ECU pin outs. those are the main things you will need to use. just don't cut your original wiring for the body and you should be ok. i am trying to get ahold of another blacktop and once i do i will be making my own harness to see what's involved with it.
just curious, you had the whole clip so thought be easier just plug and play everything. lol

either way BT or ST, still need to rework the harness?
this thread really helpful.
 
#56 ·
:clap:First off, very nice swap kaitaiya. i'm also in the process of my engine/tranny swap. Should be completed by end of April. Check out my cardomain page if you wanna see my progress pics and all.

Most people will tell you, a blacktop swap just bolts right in but as you and I know, there are some other considerations that people who haven't actually done this swap, really don't have a clue. :disappoin Cudos to you for explaining in detail for the most part every issue you will come across. One of the best write-ups I've seen so far. :thumbsup:

Last, to help you answer some of the other members questions. The stock axles will work and you mentioned the passenger side CV with the intermediate shaft. I have a solution for that. That axle was made here in the US and is available at almost any parts house. PM me if u want more info on what vehicle. I have mine already, and it's a perfect match so you can still have the intermedaite shaft just like the JDM counterpart :naughty:

BTW, some of the motor mounts are different. Example, the 6 speed tranny mount is totally different and a custom bracket must be made. Also if you are swapping from auto to manual, you will need a different bracket for the rear mount. But basically the only mount that really makes a difference is the tranny mount.

Last, you have also clued me in to a couple of things that I will definitely use upon installation. I'm also getting the harness sent off in a few days. Motor is done and ready to go in after a new timing belt, new belts new plugs, new rotor and cap (all sourceable here in the US) thanks for all the help on your end as well :cool:
 
#57 · (Edited)
i actually find the auto and manual rear mount(rubber part) is close enough to work. the front mounts are different, but they do interchange. never had the luxury of a 6 speed, but i agree it'll take some work to fit and i've seen what jspec did on his. if i ever do another blacktop i will omit the power steering idle up valve and just make a hard line to take up the room in between the soft lines. with a manual trans it's not needed. but i will appreciate your input on the USDM axle info. will love to put that back on my car. it helps with the torque steer when you get on it hard off the line and come out of the corners hard. i have no problem taking apart the CV to make it work. i tried with the USDM drivers side extra and the tripod bearing is smaller so it won't work. also the cap and rotor, you sourced from a readily available usdm model? sending you PM :thumbsup:



BTW cardomain page is nice. how do you like the shifter bushings? i got them, just haven't installed them yet(almost a year now)
 
#61 ·
So 2 years(almost 3) and 30K miles later i figure it's time to add to my post.
this actually was done about 4 months ago... had to change the Clutch. i wound up going with a stock AISIN replacement. had some trouble with the seller on ebay that i got it from. he initially sent me the wrong clutch even though he had it listed as a FWD setup. he sent me a RWD one. i sent it back and got the correct clutch, pressure plate, but he sent the wrong throw out bearing. so i am still running the old throw out bearing(and it's making noise) but i have to live with it for now.


this engine cradle came in handy. available from AMAZON for roughly $100 shipped(if you catch the free shipping.)


trans out the bottom.


flywheel out for resurfacing.
expect to pay at least $80 to get the flywheel resurfaced. as for the clutch the one i got from ebay was $175. it does the job and i was happy with how it feels. i could have gone with a stage 2 or higher one, but i daily drive this and why should i kill myself.


you can see the difference in the bearings. the bottom one is the stock 20V the top one i have no idea. it fits the center shaft, but the ears that attach to the fork are too narrow. this was almost a 2 day affair. took a few hours to get the trans out and flywheel to the machine shop. again had i have done this initially i would have probably gotten a little more use out of it before having to change it.
 
#62 ·
ok so this happened this past weekend. had i heeded my own advise from page one, Hint 3, i would have saved myself a popped shoulder and alot of aches and pains. my rack started giving me trouble a few months after i completed my swap. initially i had a bad inner tie rod(the arm would move) and i also found i had a bad mounting bushing(the rack would move) when i went to change the tie rod, it appears the seal let go so that developed a leak. i didn't notice it because i had planned to change the bushing the next weekend. when that came around, i saw the leak and just decided i would change the whole rack as a unit, with new rod ends and what not. it took me a while to find a new rack at a good price. found one from rockauto for roughly $125 new plus core. i wound up getting the rod ends as well as ball joints knowing that i'd be changing the knuckles and struts at one time. unfortunately the rod ends and ball joints didn't arrive in time to get them all on at one time, but i did manage to get the rack in, swap the outer tie rods over to the new rack, and install the coil overs with powder coated knuckles with new bearings(i also had a bad wheel bearing).

so here's the pics.

everything laid out on the table.


removal of old strut and hub


in order to get the rack out i had to remove ALOT of things, coil, iginitor, fuel filter locater, canister, intake. just to get to the plate that covers the steering coupler.


i also wound up dropping the subframe yet again to get to the rack. i should have had the foresite to do it when i had the trans out for my clutch job. you can see from the pics it was right there. taking out the lines to the rack were pretty tough. access to them is tight and i needed to swing a 19MM to break the lines loose from the rack.


had my outer tie rods gotten in it would have just been a matter of making them the same length. but i wound up swapping the rod ends over from one rack to the other. i also swapped the hard line that's on the rack. the one that i received had a couple kinks in it.



completed job. i installed the TRD body coil overs with my powder coated knuckles. new bearings. the spec on the coil over are TRD body, Tokiko insert, Tien pillow mount, and i'm unsure on the coil spring but it is REALLY STIFF. i did put the camber bolts back in so i could get it aligned at firestone. i'm glad i bought the lifetime alignment($180) but i plan to take it back once my outer rod ends and ball joints get in. also i have a set of JIC full body coil over that i might try. mainly because it has dampening adjustment too. so stay tuned.

 
#63 ·
i forgot to mention i also had to change my AC compressor. again i should have heeded my hint 3. the actual AC compressor is unfortunately a hybrid. you can use a TRECEL(i wanna say it's a 94?) pump body, but the pulley for the 20V is a 5 rib, and the trecel is a 4 rib. but the body will bolt up correctly. i was lucky enough to have an AC specialist in the area and he was able to cross the pump, but there is also an issue with the wiring. the trecel replacement only has 4 wires where as the 20V has 5. he was able to jumper it to make it work. but now i have a problem with a leaking line. the custom line that was made is now leaking. so my AC specialist is trying to find a line that will fit. if not i will have to have a new line made. hoping i can find an off the shelf line so i can share with you folks.
 
#64 ·
I've also swapped my 97 Corolla 7AFE auto to manual swap...You can check my cardomain for all the photos. I'd be glad to assist kaitaiya in any questions.

On the axles...Stock axles will work fine. only difference is if you have ABS. But if you have a cut or damaged half-shaft and intermediate bearing, I have come up with a PARTIAL solution to having the 20V axle

YOU NEED: Good half shaft (shaft that goes in tranny side), bearing, and bearing housing (bolts to block)

This is what I had but the other part of the shaft was cut for quick removal. So my search began. What I found is an earlier model Toyota RAV4 98 or 99 model have the same shaft and intermediate bearing...BUT the shaft splines for the tranny are different. This is where your half shaft and bearing housing come into play. Just swap the half shafts, Install a new boot clamp. DONE





Notice the different splines...But basically still the same exact shaft!

Now engine/trans mounts
Only mount that needs modification is for the 6 speed

But if you are converting from auto to manual, then yes the transmission rear mount "U" bracket (bolts to tranny) is different. Also the left transmssion mount bracket and "stay" bracket are different. But basically the 5 speed transmission on the 20V and the 7AFE are identical, so if you already have a manual, you will have no worries.

Also one minor note, I had to swap the bracket on the passenger side mount that bolts to the side of the block. You have to remove the timing cover to get to it. The one that came with my engine was different.





Hope that helps : )
 
#65 ·
:clap: i was wondering how that shaft i sent you worked out. did you get up and running? i recently found yet another problem. when dr tweak made my harness, he bypassed the neutral saftey switch that is normally in the automatic transmission plug with a loop back. i find that now it is killing my battery. i only found this out when i did a 5 speed swap for a friends car and had to jumper the pins till he was able to connect the clutch pedal switch to the wires. now i have to take apart the harness and find where he looped it back to bypass the switch. definitely gonna be a PITA. but first i gotta go get a new battery yet again. 4th battery in 2 years. :thumbsdow
 
#66 · (Edited)
:clap: i was wondering how that shaft i sent you worked out. did you get up and running? i recently found yet another problem. when dr tweak made my harness, he bypassed the neutral saftey switch that is normally in the automatic transmission plug with a loop back. i find that now it is killing my battery. i only found this out when i did a 5 speed swap for a friends car and had to jumper the pins till he was able to connect the clutch pedal switch to the wires. now i have to take apart the harness and find where he looped it back to bypass the switch. definitely gonna be a PITA. but first i gotta go get a new battery yet again. 4th battery in 2 years. :thumbsdow
I didn't want to tell you my secret jus in case :lol:. But yea man...been up and running for a good while now. Drove it from Louisiana to Florida for SR7 and back...no problems :D

Sorry to hear about your wiring problems. I had someone else do mine. But unfortunately I've got one problem also. Doesn't sound as bad as yours but basically I'm trying to wire up my clutch pedal switch so that you can only start the car when the clutch pedal is pressed. I have cruise control on my car but it no longer works due to the fact that this switch is wired into the cruise control and goes to the cruise ECU. I've tried a couple things but still no luck. Soon I will contact Doug and figure out hopefully how I can make it work. But it sounds like our problems are similar in that we are both fooling with the clutch pedal switch and trying to figure out how the neutral safety switch was bypassed. I'll let you know if I find anything out
 
#68 ·
^ I'm familiar with the two wires you speak of. I also tried splicing those two wires straight from the switch but still it didn't work. So mine must be looped also somehow. I will be contacting Doug soon. Just not in a big rush since currently it's not posing any real problems and mine has been driving and starting no problem. Also not having any battery draining issues. Just looking forward to saying I have cruise control on a 20V. To add to the confusion, I'm actually not a wiring guru...I just learned what I know from trial and error :p
 
#69 ·
so i located a newer motor and had time to swap it into my car. it looked soo clean i swear it may have had 25K miles on it. everything was working flawlessly. no issues. car would rev to 8K, 110 in 4th gear. it was awesome. then the rains started.... and on my way to work disaster struck.....







i'm all right, but the car is totaled...... the new engine well........
 
#70 ·
let's just say i hope i can use the internals.....

punched a hole in the oil pan




broke the o2 sensor(which can't just be sourced from USDM)


folded the trans cross member


crushed the ITB box into the firewall.



destroyed my fujitsubo header(FGK $700 brand new)



cracked the trans as well as the block





i literally had to cut the engine out of the car....


but it's out on a dolly. i will go through it once i get my old motor(which was still good and i had planned to sell) into another corolla. thanks to one of my friends i was able to get my hands on another sedan. i had converted it to 5 speed prior to it blowing the motor so that will save me some time.

FROM THE ASHES THE PHOENIX WILL ARISE......
 
#72 ·
Yeah it was a pretty hard hit. And the Jdm bumper has no crash support so that's why the damage is greater. I got your message. But I needed the lower part of the pipe. Thanks though.
 
#73 · (Edited)
adding in some more information. found this while i was looking for other things. this would eliminate having a completely custom high pressure hose built for the steering. you will need to just have a short hose built from the rack to attach to this. as for the return line, you can use the stock 93-97 line and just cut it at the loop on the passenger side. from there you could use a rubber hose to the reservoir.

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1093097

[Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty] (Only 2 Remaining)

$30.79Add Part


when i do my friends car i will take pictures of this mod and post them. but once i receive the line i will test fit it. also might have found a better throttle cable. the 1990-93 celica GT cable works, but it's VERY LONG. so i think i might have found a solution with the cruise control version of the car. that's on order as well and hoping it will get in soon. hoping to route it below the ITB's and around the top to the bellcrank. *** i will confirm this once the part gets in***

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0950663 More Information About this Part
Category: Accelerator Cable [Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty]

Part Image
$18.15
Add Part
 
#74 · (Edited)
***BELTS***
here is a little info on the accessory belts.

those are the best bet. use this image numbers to cross reference them.
as for timing belt, you can get both ST and BT from www.tweakit.net . they are a performance place in NZ and have decent replacement parts for 20V.
 
#75 · (Edited)
***HEADER/Exhaust***

Biggest issue with the exhaust is finding the down pipe. there are several ways around this. most 20V come with the stock exhaust manifold "header" attached but the down pipe is either removed or cut. if it's cut, you could have the a flange welded onto it to attach to your exhaust system. one of my friends(ceTna) found a $160 shipped full stainless cat back system for 93-97 corolla on ebay. now if you got that, then all you would need to do is attach the header to it. there lies the problem. between finding an original down pipe and a header, they seem to both be like finding a needle in a haystack.

SCT passed me some info from a friend of his. he pointed me to sv3Power.com and they have a downpipe for MR2 running a 20V. if you get the "racing" pipe, it will bolt up to the stock header and then you will still need to put a flange on it. it comes "some assembly required" but you can get it with either a flange o2 sensor or a threaded bung. that's a whole different problem... and i will cover that in a bit. an alternate i've found is to use a ae92 GTS 16V header. the exhaust ports line up, but you will need to grind/shape the flange to allow the end 2 bolts to work. i purchased an OBX one and it fits.

but there are some mods that need to be done. in the next few pictures you can see how the holes line up and how much they need to be modded to fit.



you can see the markings needed to be ground to get it to fit. i used a carbide bit on my die grinder and it was about 10 minutes of grinding.




i'll post pictures of it installed tonight once i get the washers to bolt it in. but don't forget to check where the stock EGR port is welded in. they really didn't clean up the metal before the welded it in and it would impede the flow.


now to plug that hole, you will need a M18x1.50 bolt. i might have found one(oem toyota part) that can be sourced from a junkyard, or from toyota for $2. again it's on order and once it get's in i'll post how it sits.

and being that the header is stainless steel, once you install it, before you fire the motor, wipe it down with rubbing alcohol on a clean rag. that way your finger prints won't become permanently etched into the metal. you'll get a nice blued finish instead.

back to the o2 sensor. i was able to use a 93 MR2 Turbo one, but i had to repin it. upon changing things in my new car, i found the stock 95-97 corolla secondary O2 sensor has the correct plug, but wrong flange for the header O2 port. if you get the Sv3 "racing" pipe,you can get the threaded bung and it may allow the 95-97 O2 sensor to work. i will confirm once i get the car running if it's something that will work or not.

******EDIT******

ok so i ground down the areas that needed to be ground.



and got the header to fit




it does clear the oil filter, but down below there's other problems.....


it hits the oil pan. and the O2 sensor hits the sway bar.

to fix these this is what i did.

tried a 1.8L down pipe off my old header, that was too long and didn't clear the cross member. a 1.6L might, or shortening this one would have, but i didn't want to do that.

wound up using header wrap. and seeing if i could bend it a little away from the oil pan. got enough clearance.



o2 sensor fix.


using the 95-97 stock downstream o2. hope it works without a CEL.
 
#76 · (Edited)
and i got some parts in....

Before ugly bolt plugging the EGR hole.


the solution:


After


and power steering hose listed above came in.


you can see just laying it ontop the engine it will allow you to use a shorter "custom" hose that might be able to use your stock high pressure out and put a fitting on the hose where it needs to go. i will be helping a friend do his in the near future, so at that time i will be updating this.


also throttle cable came in.... this is also listed above. from a 90-93 Celica GT WITH CRUISE CONTROL.
length difference with stock corolla.
***here's the part number if anyone needs it***
1993 TOYOTA CELICA 2.2L L4 BECK/ARNLEY 0950634 Accelerator Cable



Before, you can see the 90-93 non Cruise control cable in this picture routes all the way from the fire wall to the radiator support around and back to the ITB's




After much cleaner.... no long cable. routed under the ITB's and back up.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top