ok onto the swap.
when you install the engine it's easiest to place the harness on the motor than to try to reach around and install all the plugs. Also i would strongly recommend changing things like water pump, timing belt at the minimum. to get a water pump, you may need to get it from a japan dealer or something. i was lucky enough to find the timing belt from here:
the BT is a 111 tooth belt, the ST is a 110 tooth belt. make sure you get the correct one for the correct application. there is a tensioner on there that looks like a little shock absorber. when you pull out the belt it will spring out. you will need to use a vise or something of the sort to push the piston back in, then use a small wire/pin to lock the shaft in to reinstall it. i used the back of a rivet to hold it till i got the belt back on and then installed it before pulling the pin out.
the site also has some hop up parts, studs, head gaskets etc. pricing on the timing belt wasn't too bad. i think it came up at $60 shipped.
water pump etc i got from japan. i can't remember how much i paid for them and i didn't use them yet. gonna save it incase i gotta rebuild.
here's a pic of everything on the engine ready to drop in.
also here's a pic of how you can lift the front of the car up high enough to slide the engine under if you have it on the cradle with the suspension arms still attached. much easier on the back.
When you do drop it in weather it be from the top or bottom, try to make sure you have any hoses, lines, cables, wires etc that come from the body set aside so they don't interfere with lining up the engine.
you can see in this pic when we dropped the engine into my bro's wagon i actually had it all shrink wrapped, just left the chain on the engine and then shrinked it all up.
his engine came in from the bottom. if you do it this way, you will still need to rest the car on jack stands, but you will need to pick the car up using the hoist. we used the bolt on the bottom of the front cross member where the front trans mount bolts in to raise the car body up high enough to clear the engine on the moving dolly. once it's somewhat in the right place, then you will need to lower the body down and then use the hoist to pick up the engine to line things up. if you come in from the top, you will need to angle the engine in lowering the trans side down first. rest it ontop the cross member reposition the chain and then try to pick the engine up level to line up the mounts.
here's a pic of taking the engine out of the clip. and somewhat the angle needed to get it to clear everything.
the back mount is the hardest to get in. you may need to tap out the studs, or atleast one of the studs to allow it to position in. once everything is lined up then you tighten things up. leave everything loose until the engine is located on all mounts. i believe you need a 19mm, and a 14mm if you are doing the whole clip method. if you are just doing engine mounts and dropping it in from the top and left the full suspension in, you will need a 17mm.
one more tip. i would reccomend taking off the mount on the trans until you get the motor level in the engine bay. then bolt it back together. it allows a little more room if you coming in from the top.(you can see in the pic above it's off the trans). from the bottom it should line up. the timing cover side i took that mount apart too. it's one bolt and 2 nuts on the engine side, and a few 10mm on the inner fender. just make sure you are careful around the AC lines if you want to make sure your AC will still work.
here's pics of my engine located on all mounts, minus the header. i lowered it in from the top so i chose to add in more room to wiggle when lining up the mounts. if you do the clip method, you will need to make sure the exhaust is on first, or you will have to separate it and it's a little more work to fish it through between the engine and subframe.
once the engine is in, you can start routing all the hoses and wires back to their correct locations. everything should bolt back in.