I'm trying to help some amigos out, Corolla just shut off on them on the highway, they got it towed home and I just went to look at it. It cranks but won't start and had a CEL
I pulled all the fuses, they were good, I also pulled the harness to the Fuel pump and checked for voltage which was ok. Although I couldn't hear any noise from the fuel pump.
After I pulled all the fuses, I went to check spark - guess what - it cranked right up and ran for about a mile and the CEL had gone, but pulling back into his driveway it did the same thing again. The CEL came on and it died.
I checked the spark immediately and it seemed there was no spark now with the CEL on.
Looking for ideas what it could be?
I read somewhere I can jump the OBD TE1 & E1 to read the CEL codes that flash.....
He has a relatively new Distrubutor and wires and said he had a new fuel filter as well.
I read somewhere I can jump the OBD TE1 & E1 to read the CEL codes that flash.....
Yep, you can jump the TEI & E1 port of the diagnosis box in your engine bay by using a small piece of wire or a paper-clip.
Once you've jumped the ports together, turn the key to the 'ON' position, but don't start the engine. If your connections are correct then the check engine light should start flashing. Keep note of how many times it flashes as this is the code it is giving you. For example, if the code was 35 it would flash 3-times, have a short pause, then flash 5 more times, then have a long pause. If it repeats the same code after the long pause then that means it's the only fault detected, if it flashes for a different period of time then that means there is more than one fault. If it flashes continuously with no pauses in between then that means there is no fault detected at all.
Thanks, I'll check the codes and distributor and take it from there....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi-Corolla
Yep, you can jump the TEI & E1 port of the diagnosis box in your engine bay by using a small piece of wire or a paper-clip.
Once you've jumped the ports together, turn the key to the 'ON' position, but don't start the engine. If your connections are correct then the check engine light should start flashing. Keep note of how many times it flashes as this is the code it is giving you. For example, if the code was 35 it would flash 3-times, have a short pause, then flash 5 more times, then have a long pause. If it repeats the same code after the long pause then that means it's the only fault detected, if it flashes for a different period of time then that means there is more than one fault. If it flashes continuously with no pauses in between then that means there is no fault detected at all.
Yep, you can jump the TEI & E1 port of the diagnosis box in your engine bay by using a small piece of wire or a paper-clip.
Once you've jumped the ports together, turn the key to the 'ON' position, but don't start the engine. If your connections are correct then the check engine light should start flashing. Keep note of how many times it flashes as this is the code it is giving you. For example, if the code was 35 it would flash 3-times, have a short pause, then flash 5 more times, then have a long pause. If it repeats the same code after the long pause then that means it's the only fault detected, if it flashes for a different period of time then that means there is more than one fault. If it flashes continuously with no pauses in between then that means there is no fault detected at all.
The link I gave in my post back in June no longer appears to work, but you can use this one instead. There's also some info on there about clearing the trouble codes after you've fixed the problem:
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