Starter or some kind of short Circuit?

[Alin99]

Hi,

I am trying to find out what the problem could be.

Basically, last week I managed to stall the car in an intersection, and it would not start. Probably about 10 tries later, it started. I know what you're probably thinking... dead battery. Here's the thing. The battery was 4 months old. Just a few weeks prior I had my pioneer system blasting with the car being off for a good 45mins at a time with the engine off, and then had no problems starting to recharge.

The next day I tried to start it and it refused. I checked the voltage on the battery through the cigarette lighter.. it fluctuated from 11.9- 12.5 V.

I push started the car, took the battery back to walmart where they tested it at 12.8V and 650 mA. They replaced it as the battery rating was 900 mA. The car then started okay for that day.

The next day.. the car didn't want to start with the brand new battery!!! It took 5 tries on the new battery to start it. What is going on? The alternator steadily reads 14.5 V which is ok. But, when I'm running the tester just through the battery I get constantly varying voltages from 11.5-12.6 V.

Any ideas? I'm guessing it's either the starter, which I'm kind of a newb and not sure how to remove or test, or some kind of electrical short in the system which might be killing batteries.

PS. I turned the stereo off during the battery voltage test and have cleaned the battery connectors to no avail. All the fuses are also okay.

[Alin99]

I forgot to mention, it's a 97 corolla 1.8L. Also when it doesn't start, I can hear one click.

[speedy25]

Very common problem on starters. The contact in the solenoid get eroded away from switching all those amps of electricity. You can repair it yourself with a little bit of work, or just buy a new solenoid and bolt it in.

-SP

[wheredoesthisgo]

Allright im a little lit right now but i am a backyard electronics tech. If you want to isolate an electrical gremlin in your car i will stumble through this. I dont remember what the normal draw is on a car but connect (whith the key out of the ignition/this means in your pocket) an ohm meter/multimeter (set it on amps first )in series whith the battery (that means the current is going through the meter). There is a max amp that a car is supposed to draw in general in the milliamp range( i know it will vary but goog your year and try to figuritout )
Once you have the ammeter in series, With out the key in the ignition you should see an amperage draw higher than normal. This is a parasitic draw.

One by one remove fuses from the fuse box and when you see the amperage drop, You have found the suspect draw. At least now you know what circuit is killing you.

[wheredoesthisgo]

I traced alot of draws down to the horn pad. If it has airbags do not mess with it or you could be killed! Pull the fuse and live with out a horn or hire a professional.

[wheredoesthisgo]

Oh yeah, please post what you found. Too many folks take the info and run. It would be nice if you told everyone what fixed your problem!

[Alin99]

I should be able to have a look at it this weekend. I took the car out yesterday and it started right up, all four times. Voltage was pretty steady too.. 12.3-12.6 V

So.. it might be some weird voltage/current flow/rust issue.

Car has no air bags and it is from Newfoundland... where they love to use salt on the roads.. so it could be my rusting horn. Gonna have to try using the horn while testing the voltage and see what I get. lol