Corolla A/C questions

[MrGiggles]

It's getting hot here, and none of my vehicles have AC that works so I'm pondering fixing up the AC in the Corolla. The PO told me that he was recharging it and he saw freon coming out of the condenser and that it had a crack in it. As of now I'm just taking his word for it because I haven't investigated further.

I've pushed the A/C button and turned the fan on, and the compressor does not spin at all. So there is no freon in the system.

I've been doing a little research, and before I check out my condenser I am wondering if I will have to pump out the system because there will be air in the pipes. I understand air isn't good, but i don't have a vacuum pump or a charging manifold to suck it out.

According to this video, it is 100% that air has gotten into the pipes. What kind of pump would I need to get it out? Is it possible to bleed it out?

You Tube

You Tube

[redlinerev]

I just changed my condensor (96 DX).

Not that bad of a job, just take your time.

I added freon (1 3oz of leak seal just in case, 1.5 12 OZ cans of 134a) until the site glass by the drivers side headlight was clear.

I blows ice cold now!

[musclecar64]

I also just replaced my condenser (94 base). Replace the receiver drier along with it (about $35). Make sure that that last thing you have open is the receiver drier, because as soon as you seal up those lines, you need to evac the system immediately. The receiver drier acts as a desiccant,and it will start sucking up moisture. If you don't have access to and knowledge of how to use a manifold and vacuum pump, take it somewhere to have the work done. A prompt system evac is critical to keeping the system moisture free when recharging.

[MrGiggles]

Originally Posted by redlinerev

I just changed my condensor (96 DX).

Not that bad of a job, just take your time.

I added freon (1 3oz of leak seal just in case, 1.5 12 OZ cans of 134a) until the site glass by the drivers side headlight was clear.

I blows ice cold now!

So that's all you did was replace it? No pumping? One more question, does the condenser come out from the front of the car or the engine side? What has to be removed to get it out?

Originally Posted by musclecar64

I also just replaced my condenser (94 base). Replace the receiver drier along with it (about $35). Make sure that that last thing you have open is the receiver drier, because as soon as you seal up those lines, you need to evac the system immediately. The receiver drier acts as a desiccant,and it will start sucking up moisture. If you don't have access to and knowledge of how to use a manifold and vacuum pump, take it somewhere to have the work done. A prompt system evac is critical to keeping the system moisture free when recharging.

What do you mean by system evac? Pumping out the lines with a vacuum pump? Or does the receiver dryer do that?

Thanks

[redlinerev]

I just added the freon - backyard sytle we don't need no stinkin evap! -it might not be the best thing for it long term, but it was cheap and it has been ICE cold for about a month now.

As long as it (AC) gets me through August/September I am good - at 226K and with the rust underneath I doubt if it will be around next summer.

Looking to pick up a nice under 100K southern one this winter/spring. I will pull and stash the drivetrain, and any other goods parts off this one, but the northeast winters have basically done the body in. Plus the sideswipe I received from a trucker isn't worth fixing. The 1900 dollar check was nice though .

It comes out the engine side. I removed the grill, headlights, radiator and both fans.

[musclecar64]

Originally Posted by MrGiggles

So that's all you did was replace it? No pumping? One more question, does the condenser come out from the front of the car or the engine side? What has to be removed to get it out?



What do you mean by system evac? Pumping out the lines with a vacuum pump? Or does the receiver dryer do that?

Thanks

System evac is short for evacuation. You put a vacuum (negative) pressure on the system for a little while and the moisture in the system boils itself out. You then have a clean system which will protect the compressor, and a dry system that will allow you to charge it correctly with freon.

Edit: Also, if there is a leak that caused a major or total loss in freon, and/or you are replacing components, it is absolutely necessary to do a system evac before charging. You don't want any moisture in the system when you charge it. If you crack open the lines, humidity will instantly find it's way in.

[MrGiggles]

I think I'll probably wait on the AC then. I'm going to replace my shock struts instead. I'd rather keep my head off the roof, then be cool with a concussion.

[Kiwi-Corolla]

Originally Posted by MrGiggles

I think I'll probably wait on the AC then. I'm going to replace my shock struts instead. I'd rather keep my head off the roof, then be cool with a concussion.

Well said! And good choice to replace the struts first - They're a lot more important

[speedy25]

you guys forgot to tell him WHY its important to evacuate the system. If there is any moisture in the ststem it will turn to ice and block AC passages. The receiver dryer does this on an ongoing basis but it can be overwhelmed.

Water vapor evaporates under a vacuum so thats why its done. If your system hasnt been open to the air your usually OK.

-SP

[musclecar64]

Originally Posted by speedy25

you guys forgot to tell him WHY its important to evacuate the system.

-SP

System evac is short for evacuation. You put a vacuum (negative) pressure on the system for a little while and the moisture in the system boils itself out. You then have a clean system which will protect the compressor, and a dry system that will allow you to charge it correctly with freon.




Also, even if the lines haven't been manually cracked open, if there's a leak that resulted in a total loss of refrigerant, it IS necessary to do to an evacuation.