Rattling Sound from Engine Bay - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

azcorolla · 07-07-2010, 09:21 AM

I haven't been on here for awhile, been playing with my 81 Malibu.

But my 97 Corolla - 1.8 engine - has developed a metallic, rattling sound that I haven't been able to narrow down, hopefully someone can help me find it.

It seems to come from the right (passenger) side, or maybe the right rear, of the engine. It's not ping or a squeaky belt, this is a deeper sound, similar to a noisy lifter or (God forbid) a rod knocking. My wife calls it a growl.

It's there at idle, right from a cold start, and is there after warming up. It either goes away or just can't be heard once the engine gets revved up a bit or you're driving down the road.

Is the water pump going out, maybe?

Any ideas/adviice on how to track it down?

Thanks!

Rip The E Brake · 07-07-2010, 07:38 PM

Passenger side motor mount causing instability issues. Replace Passenger side motor mount and the sound should disappear.

azcorolla · 07-08-2010, 06:08 PM

Hey, Rip - thanks for responding. I don't think this is the mount, though, I just went through that a while back, ended up replacing all the mounts.

This is a metallic sound, maybe bearing in one of the pumps...???

speedy25 · 07-09-2010, 10:53 AM

Remove your accessory belts to see if its something in the engine or outside of it.

-SP

azcorolla · 07-11-2010, 08:20 PM

Good idea - I tried it this morning, and still got the noise. it's definitey something insdie the engine, but I can't figure out what it is. damn. I'll have to take it in and get a Toyota mechanic to tell me what it is.

Rip The E Brake · 07-12-2010, 12:26 AM

More than likely rod knock or extreme valve tap. Expect costly repairs.

azcorolla · 07-12-2010, 08:34 AM

If it is - and I'm betting you're right - I'll see if I can find a replacement engine and slap it in there. I've got 240K on this car, and even though it's in good shape otherwise, no way I'm spending big bucks on it.

BigDAT · 07-12-2010, 11:05 AM

If you are gonna swap engines, might as well go with 3s-ge or 4a-ge

azcorolla · 07-13-2010, 08:34 AM

I may do that, but this is my wife's daily driver; I don't know if I want her having that much fun.

It'll probably depend on what I can find available.

When she pulled into the garage last night, I heard no sound at all. ...very strange.

If it lasts til Thursday, I'm taking it in to get it checked out.

azcorolla · 07-15-2010, 04:44 PM

The mechanic says the crank pulley had come loose, and broke the pulley bolt. Now the crank is hosed, according to him. His price for a fix is $2500. He offered to install a used motor for about $300 less.

That ain't happening. I'll just replace the motor myself, after I've looked at the crank myself.

speedy25 · 07-16-2010, 10:44 AM

There are ways to make repairs that while not totally permanent, can keep your car going OK without a new crank. Dont rule it out.

-SP

azcorolla · 07-16-2010, 09:01 PM

Speedy, I'd like that.

Can you throw out some ideas?

It's 115 degrees here, and I've decided I can't do an engine swap myself in this blast furnace.

I brought the car home today and took a look at it for myself. The bolt has broken off inside the crank, only about 6 threads left on the bolt to hold the pulley on, and it can't go on all the way. That's where the noise came from, the pulley is hitting the timing belt cover. It could come loose at any time.

Is there any reason I can't have that bolt end removed and just put in a new one?

MrGiggles · 07-16-2010, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azcorolla

Speedy, I'd like that.

Can you throw out some ideas?

It's 115 degrees here, and I've decided I can't do an engine swap myself in this blast furnace.

I brought the car home today and took a look at it for myself. The bolt has broken off inside the crank, only about 6 threads left on the bolt to hold the pulley on, and it can't go on all the way. That's where the noise came from, the pulley is hitting the timing belt cover. It could come loose at any time.

Is there any reason I can't have that bolt end removed and just put in a new one?

Now, I'm no expert here but I don't see any reason why the crank couldn't be brought into a machine shop and have the bolt drilled out. It would have to be removed to do so, so you would have to remove the engine but that is cheaper than a new one.

speedy25 · 07-17-2010, 12:18 PM

Ok start witht he broken bolt. Since its not under torque it should be easy to remove unless its got red threadlocker on it. Buy a LEFT HANDED 1/8" drill bit and start drilling it out. if the bit catches it will spin the bolt out. If it doesnt then you have a pilot hole for an easy out. If its stubborn you will have to drill the ho;e bigger and knock out the pieces.

On the outside if a NEW pulley doesnt fit semi securely clean things up and use some epoxy. I know its not the BEST idea but hell it can last a while!

Hopefully the inside threads are still in good enough shape to take a bolt torque.

-SP

azcorolla · 07-17-2010, 01:57 PM

OK, thanks, speedy, I got the bolt out - actually turned out to be pretty easy, using a titanium bit. The inside threads seem to be ok, too.

However the key on the crank has broken off and the crankshaft on one side of the key is busted up quite a bit. The harmonic balancer keyway is the same way, all broken up on one side.

So I'm thinking, get another pulley at the junkyard, along with a new bolt and key, then epoxy the crank all around the key, and then tighten it all up.

How long could I expect that last?