New 94 Corolla 1.6 Owner Questions - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
» Wheel & Tire Center

Go Back   Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums > Toyota Passenger and Sports Car Forums > Corolla Forum > 7th Generation (1993-1997)

7th Generation (1993-1997) Specific discussion of the 7th generation

ToyotaNation.com is the premier Toyota Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-15-2010, 11:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
POOR COROLLA KID!
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ,USA
Posts: 7
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View GOCATS's Photo Gallery
USA New 94 Corolla 1.6 Owner Questions

Hey guys I have some questions about things I can do to my car. I am trying to do modifications to improve its performance and gas mileage, along with normal preventative and scheduled Maintenance to make it last. It currently has 175,250 miles on it. Lets start with what I have done. Some of these were repairs needed because the previous owner rear ended someone. Its an automatic and trans swap is out of the question right now.

-New fuel filter
-Changed oil and oil filter
-Ran seal restore and stopped burning oil problem
-New paper air filter
-Drivers side CV axle and wheel bearing
-Speakers all around
-Spark plugs
-Rotors and Brake Pads (Warped)
-Drivers side headlight.

There are a lot more things I would like to do and have Questions on. Keep in mind that I am a 16 year old with an on and off Job so budget is key.

1. How do I take out all the A/C components not in use. The car needs a new A/C clutch and I dont have the money to pay for one. I can live without A/C but would like to free up space and reduce weight since I am not using it.

2. I am very intrigued by the Cold Air Intakes I have read about on here, Any tips on how to do it or Materials and Kits I could buy would be appreciated.

I am always on the lookout for other things I could do to my car to make it more efficient. Any advice You guys can give me is greatly appreciated. Modifications arent really a big deal and DIY is a must. I have a lot of technical know how and have worked with cars extensively so time or expertise isnt the issue its just cost. Try to talk in laymans terms though as I am new to Toyotas and their terminology in general.
GOCATS is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 07-16-2010, 12:22 AM   #2 (permalink)
Official TN Member
 
BigDAT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: california
Posts: 270
Thanks: 2
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View BigDAT's Photo Gallery
Well, Cold air intakes are great, you can find them ll over for pretty cheap. Even Ebay has pretty decent stuff. Or you can go to your local Autozone/pepboys/kragens and get a nice K&N one (will be pretty pricey)

Everything else is pretty simple, besides the A/C

if I were you, I would leave it in there, because: a. not that much weight loss b. you may find a A/C clutch at your local junk yard.

Also, welcome to the forum. Make sure to take pictures, dont make the same mistake as me. Get pictures of everything, then you can monitor your progress and see how things change over time.

Hope you enjoy the forum as much as I do.
__________________
BigDAT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2010, 12:35 AM   #3 (permalink)
POOR COROLLA KID!
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ,USA
Posts: 7
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View GOCATS's Photo Gallery
Yeah I am thinking K/N because you pay for quality and i dont want that stuff breaking on me. As far as the A/C goes you are probably right in the sense that its probably more effort than its worth.
GOCATS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2010, 12:46 AM   #4 (permalink)
Official TN Member
 
BigDAT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: california
Posts: 270
Thanks: 2
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View BigDAT's Photo Gallery
Quote:
Originally Posted by GOCATS View Post
Yeah I am thinking K/N because you pay for quality and i dont want that stuff breaking on me. As far as the A/C goes you are probably right in the sense that its probably more effort than its worth.
Personally dude, I would Buy a $20 intake off ebay and then go get a K&N filter, because honestly the aluminum in the cheaper kits is plenty good enough to withstand AIR lol. It isnt like you are building a race car , the K&N filter does allow a much better flow then just the crappy ebay filters though.

Plus most ebay filters have a hole for the mass airflow censor, that K&N does not.
__________________
BigDAT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2010, 01:30 AM   #5 (permalink)
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Hoffman Estates, IL
Posts: 203
Gameroom cash: $128158
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View jawsofire's Photo Gallery
I just ordered a bunch of parts of ebay to build mine. I'll try to remember to take picture during install. Going from a short ram to CIA.
jawsofire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2010, 03:39 AM   #6 (permalink)
Full Throttle
 
Kiwi-Corolla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 6,362
Gameroom cash: $953415
Thanks: 69
Thanked 485 Times in 451 Posts
Lifetime Supreme Member
Garage
iTrader Score: 16 reviews
View Kiwi-Corolla's Photo Gallery
Quote:
Originally Posted by GOCATS View Post
2. I am very intrigued by the Cold Air Intakes I have read about on here, Any tips on how to do it or Materials and Kits I could buy would be appreciated.
I'd highly suggest making your own cold air intake from scratch. It's incredibly simple and gives you the choice of what size piping to use etc. I made mine out of two 600mm 3" 45-degree intercooler pipes, a couple of joiners and some hose clamps. All you have to do beforehand is remove the factory air box and intake snorkel, remove the large plastic resonator box that sits in the fender, remove the battery for easy access, grind the hole in the metal bigger to accommodate your piping size (where the hole for the resonator box used to be) and you'll be ready to start.

To grind the hole bigger, I'd recommend using either a Dremel or a metal file. The Dremel with a grinding stone is the easiest, just wear earmuffs as it can get pretty noise while you're grinding. Drawing the hole size with a marker pen before grinding is a good idea too, so you know exactly where to stop and so that the hole remains round.

Once the hole is made bigger, you can now begin to route your piping. Put one of the 45-degree intercooler pipes into the hole so that it goes down where the resonator box used to be. You want the bend of the pipe to just be where the hole is. Now put your second 45-degree intercooler pipe to the throttle body, leaving a bit of room for the silicone joiner to attach. Put one pipe over the top of the other one and put a mark on it so that you know where to make the cut (again, leaving some room for the silicone joiner to attach). Take the pipes out and cut them with a hacksaw. The easiest way to make sure the cut is straight is to use a hose clamp. Just clamp it to the pipe and you'll be guaranteed to get the cut as straight as possible. You can get rid of any sharp edges with a metal file afterwards.

You will also need to cut some of the pipe that goes into the space where the resonator box used to be (unless you want your pod filter touching the ground, lol). You only need to cut a little bit of the pipe off, depending on how low you want the pod filter sitting. Once everything is cut, the best thing is to put the pod filter on the piping first, and then slide the pipe in from underneath the car. You'll need to remove your splash tray to do this. You can put the pod filter on afterwards if you like but it's quite fiddly due to the lack of space.

One of the last things you need to do is drill the hole in the pipe for the air intake temperature sensor. Put a dot where it will go (near the throttle body where it will reach), and drill the hole. I strongly suggest putting a piece of masking tape on the part of the pipe that you're going to drill. This will stop the drill piece from slipping and scratching your shiny looking pipe. The smaller the drill piece the better. Once you've made a small hole, begin to make it bigger with the drill piece until it's big enough to fit the grinding stone of the Dremel in. Grind the hole gradually until it's big enough for the rubber bung (you can use the old rubber bung from your factory airbox if you like). Make sure you keep checking that the hole is big enough as you'd hate to make the hole too large.

Finally, join all of the pipes and silicone joiners together and clamp everything in place. Be sure to cut a hole in the plastic splash tray underneath the car so that air can get to the pod filter. Last but not least, plug the air intake temperature sensor, put the battery back in and you'll be good to go.


The supplies and tools I used were as follows.

Supplies:

* 2x 45-degree 3" intercooler pipes
* 1x 3"-2.5" silicone reducer (for the throttle body)
* 1x 3"-3" silicone joiner (to connect the pipes together)
* 3" Simota pod filter
* 5x 3" hose clamps

Tools:

* Hacksaw (to cut the pipes)
* Marker pen (to mark the cuts)
* Dremel with grinding stone
* Masking tape (so the drill piece didn't slip on the pipe)
* Power drill
* Metal file (to smooth out any rough edges after cutting)
* Screwdriver (to tighten the hose clamps)

I know it sounds like a lot to do but it really isn't. It shouldn't take you any longer than two hours and it will look like a million bucks afterwards. If you have any questions whatsoever just send me a PM. I'd be more than happy to help

Here are some photos I took after the install (forgot to wipe the fingermarks off the piping as I was anxious to take photos, lol). It made a noticeable difference in terms of performance and the temperature levels of the piping were drastically reduced compared to the short ram intake I had previously. The piping now remains cold to touch, even after a long drive.








__________________

** Click here to view my CarDomain page **

Last edited by Kiwi-Corolla; 10-09-2010 at 02:46 AM. Reason: Extra clarification on piping size.
Kiwi-Corolla is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Kiwi-Corolla For This Useful Post:
GOCATS (07-16-2010), MirrorEyes (07-25-2011), Piloter (08-02-2010), Venom FA (08-07-2010)
Old 07-16-2010, 09:27 AM   #7 (permalink)
POOR COROLLA KID!
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ,USA
Posts: 7
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View GOCATS's Photo Gallery
That looks really sweet man! Yeah I am thinking that is the next thing I am going to do. Because from what I have read on here thats the only Modification that has really helped with performance. How much did it cost you to get all of that done? Where did you get your intercooler pipes and and silicone reducer and Joiner? Thanks for all the help and pictures! When I get mine done I will be sure to post some.
GOCATS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2010, 10:42 AM   #8 (permalink)
Andele, andele!
 
speedy25's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: NE oHIo
Posts: 1,337
Gameroom cash: $235545
Thanks: 0
Thanked 84 Times in 83 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View speedy25's Photo Gallery
Hmm you did say "more efficient" didnt you?

Then dont bother with any of the other stuff these guys are telling you. You might gain a little HP and some extra noise but you wont be more efficient. Reducing rolling resistance and increasing gas mileage are your goals. You did do brake work, and some other drivetrain stuff which is good. Next would be to do a leakdown test to see what shape your engine is in. Some engines at that mileage are still in good shape and others not so good. Your next jobs will be seal replacement so you can keep the oil IN the engine. seals get hard over time when they are in a hot oil bath.

Have fun with your car.

-SP
speedy25 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2010, 12:04 PM   #9 (permalink)
Official TN Member
 
BigDAT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: california
Posts: 270
Thanks: 2
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View BigDAT's Photo Gallery
He suggested he wanted a cold air intake, and people are explaining how he can accomplish it.

When it comes to other things you can/should do;

Wheels and tires

Springs (i suggest Eibach) ans struts (or go with coilovers if you have the money)

Exhaust (there are tons of videos of exhausts on corollas on the internet, find the one you like, and ask them what they did, alternatively, just try stuff out)

I also suggest a strut tower bar, it Drastically improved handling
__________________
BigDAT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2010, 01:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
Official TN Member
 
topnotch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: barbados
Posts: 635
Gameroom cash: $110420
Thanks: 2
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View topnotch's Photo Gallery
hi ther gocats and welcome to the forum kiwi"s explaination of the CAI intake is spot on mine is also similar to his just i took a more honda approuch to it seeing that the 4afe isnt a high compression performance engine the air takes a lil while to get to the intake when moving from park position but you gain at the top end as i too went with kiwi set up before i change it. so in my set up i did it that i wont loose much if at all low end torque: as you can see instead of goin down through the hole as kiwi mentioned i positioned it right behind the headlight. i did this by shifting the battery a bit and making a custom bracket to keep the battery stationary also had to twist the coolant overflow bottle stand to gave the battery a lil room for the space to shift to gave the filter room reason why i choose to do this is because the battery blocks off all hot air being extracted from the radiator fan, and the filter catches all the cold air that come from directly behind the head light i also removed the rubber lining the hood above the headlight to let more airflow over the headlight to the filter and in my case where at rainy season some roads tend to flood here am safer from suffering hydrolocking ( when water enters the intake system and causes some disturbing destruction to the rods and pistons). just another method of doin a CAI system...... as in wanting more efficiency as speedy said checking the health of your engine is one good factor as well as all other aspects to your engines health as with me i waisted no time as i got mine fully overhauled but if you do a leak down test you will know whats up with ur engine before you do anything else and work from ther. but your in a great place to learn more about your car and other performance mods you can do for your ride and one tip that helps is read read read this site is full of info and ppl that are willing to help.
__________________
topnotch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2010, 02:53 PM   #11 (permalink)
Full Throttle
 
Kiwi-Corolla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 6,362
Gameroom cash: $953415
Thanks: 69
Thanked 485 Times in 451 Posts
Lifetime Supreme Member
Garage
iTrader Score: 16 reviews
View Kiwi-Corolla's Photo Gallery
Quote:
Originally Posted by GOCATS View Post
That looks really sweet man! Yeah I am thinking that is the next thing I am going to do. Because from what I have read on here thats the only Modification that has really helped with performance. How much did it cost you to get all of that done? Where did you get your intercooler pipes and and silicone reducer and Joiner? Thanks for all the help and pictures! When I get mine done I will be sure to post some.
No problem . I got the intercooler pipes from a performance shop over here. They cost me $40 NZD each ($28 USD), although now I see he has brought the price down to $26 NZD each ($18 US). Just my luck...lol. The silicone joiner and reducer I bought from an auction site here called TradeMe (basically a NZ equivalent of eBay). The reducer was $25 NZD ($17 USD) and the joiner was $9 NZD ($6 USD) Was cheaper to buy them online than from an actual store. Also bought the pod filter ($40 NZD, $28 USD) and hose clamps ($1 NZD each, 70c US) online too.

So all up it only ended up costing me $160 NZD ($113 USD). The NZ-US dollar conversions are based on the current exchange rate so things may actually be cheaper over there than they appear in my calculations. Things in US currency usually used to cost half of what they did in NZ currency. For example, $50 NZD was usually $25 USD, but that's changed recently with the recession crap etc.

Oh, I should also mention about hydrolocking as I see it was mentioned in topnotch's post above. The only way to hydrolock your engine is to literally fully submerge the pod filter in water. You'd either have to drive through a severely flooded road (water at bumper height) or drive into a lake for that to happen. Rain has no affect on the pod filter and doesn't risk damaging your engine at all. The filter sits quite high up anyway (depending on how short you want to cut the pipe) so the chances of even getting a splash of water up there is very low, and it won't hurt if it does. If you're really worried about it then you can buy an AEM bypass valve which catches any water if you do happen to drive through a huge puddle. They're a waste of money though in my opinion, but it's up to you. Looking forward to seeing pics once you're done
__________________

** Click here to view my CarDomain page **
Kiwi-Corolla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2010, 05:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
Official TN Member
 
tylan71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 65
Thanks: 10
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View tylan71's Photo Gallery
Just a couple other suggestions with regard to your original post:

1. Get some throttle body cleaner, spray it into the throttle body then get in there with an old tooth brush and rag and clean until all the encrusted crap is off the body and butterfly valve. (~6.00)
2. Change your plug wires. (~50-60.00)
3. Buy a new PCV valve (~5.00)
4. Run some Sea-foam through the engine. Plenty of DIYs for that around, I personally just pull the PCV and let it get sucked in through there. (6.00)
5. Run a can of BG fuel cleaner or at the very least, some Techron with a full tank of fuel. (varies, I get BG on eBaY FOR ~ 10.00/can)
6. Switch to full synthetic oil. I use 5W-30 and change at 7500 miles. (3 qt * 4.50 Mobil 1 is 13.50)
7. Rotor and cap (~15-20 I think.)
8. When you get your AC going, it might be worth while to get a foaming evaporator cleaner that you deliver through the evaporator drain tube so that the mildew and crap that grows in there gets cleaned.

All in the interest of efficiency.

Just my .02.
tylan71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2010, 07:51 PM   #13 (permalink)
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Hoffman Estates, IL
Posts: 203
Gameroom cash: $128158
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View jawsofire's Photo Gallery
Rotor and cap is about 35-40. I changed mine recently.
jawsofire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2010, 08:24 PM   #14 (permalink)
POOR COROLLA KID!
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ,USA
Posts: 7
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View GOCATS's Photo Gallery
Thanks Guys! These are a ton of good ideas and information! It Might take me a while to get it done because football season is coming up and I will be practicing not working on my car. Probably by the new year I will get it done because I will have money and football season will be over!
GOCATS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 04:32 PM   #15 (permalink)
POOR COROLLA KID!
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ,USA
Posts: 7
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View GOCATS's Photo Gallery
Just recently took my car to emissions and it didnt pass, Too many hydrocarbons especially while idling. Did plug wires and Cap and rotor set. Degreased the engine also.
GOCATS is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums > Toyota Passenger and Sports Car Forums > Corolla Forum > 7th Generation (1993-1997)

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:31 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.