Cannot purge p/s system

[gomes512]

Hello,

Just finished replacing the high pressure p/s hose on my '97 Geo prizm. Installed the hose just as the old one and it does not leak.

Before I restarted I refilled the resoiver and turned the wheel lock to lock without starting. I then started and repeated lock to lock 3 times.

The pump makes a whining noise and the fluid is all bubbly. I can not make the pump stop whining. The fluid still keeps getting bubbly.

Air stuck in the system... How the heck do I purge it completly???

Thanks for any tips.

[Bitter]

keep doing it with wheels on the ground and it will purge eventually, may want to let it set over night and just bump the engine over a couple times to move the air pockets out then take it for a drive and see if you can't purge the rest of the air.

[speedy25]

The best way to start this job is wheels off the ground and just turn the wheels lock to lock a bunch of times. Start the car and do it again. Turn it off and check the level.

If you have a lot of bubbles you need to let the bubbles work themselves out before starting it again so you may have to let the car sit for a while and then start with step one again.

-SP

[gomes512]

Thanks for the replies! I let it sit for a good 30 minutes and the noise went away after the next start. The air in the fluid just needed some time to settle out.

I didn't have access to jackstands for this car (US 1.6L) so I couldnt crawl under there to get at the hose clamp by the firewall. Here is how I replaced my hose. I put a plastic sheet underneath the car to catch all the fluid (about 1qt).

1. Loosened the bolt holding hose to reservoir, a large socket (don't remember size). It also had a large torx hole if you want to go that route. The high pressure a/c line is kind of in the way. I carefully pushed it to the side to get the socket on and then the 6" extension for my ratchet.

2. Jacked up car and took off driver side wheel. Through the wheel well hole you can see where the pressure and return lines feed into the rack. The one on the left was the pressure hose in my case. I used a sawzall to cut the line as close to the nut fitting as possible. You can also use a small handheld hacksaw.

3. Used a 18mm deep socket, universal joint, and 1.5' worth of extensions. Used a piece of old pipe to get leverage on the ratchet. Made a loud bang when it finally broke loose.

4. Followed old hose to the firewall where it was attached to a brass clamp. Used a small handheld hacksaw to cut the hose by the clamp (tin snips will work to). The hose had a metal reinforcement inside. Once cut I pulled the hose through the clamp.

5. Routed new hose through the engine bay. At reservoir side I made sure to include the two new copper washers. Hand tightened the bolt. At rack side I installed the new o-ring at end of new hose (lubed with ATF or P/S fluid). Hand tightened fitting.

6. Made sure rubber part of hose didn't contact any part of engine or firewall. If it does I would just zip tie it to the clamp to prevent future rub-through.

7. Tightened the reservoir side bolt. On the rack side you can fit a small Crescent wrench by the differential to tighten the fitting a quarter or so turn at a time.

8. Drank a beer then filled reservoir with new fluid. Turned wheels lock to lock 3 times without starting engine. Started engine and turned lock to lock 3 times. Pump made a loud whirring. Let it sit for 30 minutes to get air bubbles out of fluid. Next start it ran quiet and I topped off the fluid.

Good luck!