Engine Diagnostics not working....?? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

JesusJones · 08-13-2010, 05:02 PM

Hey everyone

Kind of a weird problem I have here with the diagnostics. Basically it just doesn't work.

I have tried shorting out te1 and e1 in the diagnostics box many times in my car and nothing ever happens when I turn my key to the "on" position. Everything lights up including the check engine light and it just stays on. No blinking or anything out of the norm.

And one time I unplugged the map sensor while the car was running and the check engine light did come on. So I know it works somewhat.

Am I doing something completely wrong?

Rudy

MrGiggles · 08-13-2010, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JesusJones

Hey everyone

Kind of a weird problem I have here with the diagnostics. Basically it just doesn't work.

I have tried shorting out te1 and e1 in the diagnostics box many times in my car and nothing ever happens when I turn my key to the "on" position. Everything lights up including the check engine light and it just stays on. No blinking or anything out of the norm.

And one time I unplugged the map sensor while the car was running and the check engine light did come on. So I know it works somewhat.

Am I doing something completely wrong?

Rudy

That sounds to me like there isn't anything wrong in the car that would throw a code. Is the check engine light on when the car is in use?

JesusJones · 08-13-2010, 06:37 PM

no the check engine light is not on normally.

It would be nice if that meant that my car was A OK.

I'll have to try getting the check engine light to come on, then try running the diagnostic to see if it really is not working.

Cheers

MrGiggles · 08-13-2010, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JesusJones

no the check engine light is not on normally.

It would be nice if that meant that my car was A OK.

I'll have to try getting the check engine light to come on, then try running the diagnostic to see if it really is not working.

Cheers

If your car works fine and the light isn't on it sounds to me like your car is okay and you're searching for a problem that doesn't exist.

Like you said, pull a sensor, look up the code for it, and run the diagnostic then.

Bitter · 08-13-2010, 07:13 PM

what year is it?

***Kiwi-Corolla*** · 08-13-2010, 07:25 PM

The jump between the E1 and TE1 ports probably isn't making a good enough connection. This happened to me, so I got a mate to wiggle the paper clip on the two terminals while I sat inside the car until the CEL started flashing. There's grease in the ports which can sometimes stop the metal-to-metal contact. A bit of wiggling to get the contacts in the right place seems to work. If no codes are found then the CEL will continuously flash with no pauses in between.

EDIT: It also pays to mention that only Corollas with OBD-I can do this type of test. Anything after 1995 had OBD-II.

speedy25 · 08-13-2010, 09:23 PM

Rudy-

Why are you trying to "diagnose" something that isnt broken??!!

-SP

JesusJones · 08-17-2010, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedy25

Rudy-

Why are you trying to "diagnose" something that isnt broken??!!

-SP

haha yea I know...."Don't fix what ain't broke" is a phrase I should take more seriously.

I just wanted to see if my car had any stored codes on it. On my gf's celica it never showed a check engine light, but when I did the diagnostics it gave me some codes. Which I then remedied.

Since mine doesn't have a check engine light showing and it is a 96 with obd 2 I will just leave it alone and be happy that she runs every day.

But one thing that is kinda in need of repair would be my exhaust manifold. I put some water/seafoam through my brake booster hose earlier today and there was alot of smoke coming from the exhaust manifold area rather than all coming out of my tailpipe.

I replaced the manifold recently and just torqued it tightly (not insanely tight) but now I need to do it properly

. Any one who has changed theirs recently remember what the torque specs are for the bolts. And the correct order for tightening. (I worked my way out from the middle)

Thanks,
Rudy

Edit: I have looked for almost an hour and finally found this http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/7920TO...t_Manifold.htm
It says 25ft/lbs and doesn't give any order for tightening. Sound right??

cipher93 · 08-17-2010, 09:48 PM

Make sure you're using a good, solid piece of cooper wire to make the connection. If there is any sealant on it, use a q-tip to wipe it away.

EDIT: Nevermind, it's OBDII haha. Where was the smoke coming from on the manifold? If it's coming from the block or where it bolts to the flex joint, it needs torqued up. Anywhere else you have a crack.

Bitter · 08-17-2010, 10:20 PM

from the middle out is fine, 35lbs iirc?

JesusJones · 08-18-2010, 04:18 PM

I took the heat shield off and pured some water down into my brake booster hose.

Some water pooled up at the exhaust port furthest away from the distributor. But no steam shot out. SO I think the seal between manifold and block is OK.

But from manifold to the flex pipe steam was shooting out so I torqued those nuts up to 45ft/lb. Judging by how much the bolts turned I'm guessing my problem is gone. I didn't even bother with the steam test again.

For the manifold 35 ft/lbs sounds more correct than 25 IMO. When I finally decide to fork up 30$ for a new seal that's what I'll torque it to.

Thanks everyone
Rudy