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7th Generation (1993-1997) Specific discussion of the 7th generation

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Old 09-07-2010, 01:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Want to buy engine mounts.

Hey I was looking for some engine mounts for the geo i just cant help to notice how cheap Roackauto.com prices are. Are they correct here is a list of the ones they have opposed to the advance auto parts website.

Part # 8177 Base; Trans. code MX1; Automatic trans.; 3 speed trans.; Suzuki trans.; Front.
RockAuto $14.25 ..Advance $34.99

Part # 8179 Rear
RockAuto $15.48 ...Advance $48.99

Part # 8180 trans. code MM5; Standard trans.; Toyota trans.; Front
RockAuto $21.79 ...Advance $51.99

Part # 8178 FrontRight
RockAuto $44.79 ..Advance$59.99

I see rock auto is recommended on this site. I just wanted to know, how good is the quality because those are great prices.
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Old 09-07-2010, 02:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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They're legit, that's where I got my set from (and most of my stock-replacement parts from as well). The mounts are just as well made as the stock ones that came out, I can't really speak for the rubber quality given that I still have my homemade-urethaned front and rear mounts (NOT replacing those again) in but the left and tranny mount are holding up very well after about 10K.
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Old 09-07-2010, 02:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Is it hard to replace the transmission mount? I think that's the main problem with my vibration right now. 1.6l 3 speed auto. This would be the mount under the air intake. Is the part number for this #8177. I want to be 100% sure before ordering.

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Old 09-08-2010, 12:01 PM   #4 (permalink)
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just to let you know there were coupons like a week ago for 40 off 100 just like last week for online orders. I got 2 mounts for 60, regular price was 100
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Old 09-13-2010, 02:49 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 94PrizmDD View Post
Is it hard to replace the transmission mount? I think that's the main problem with my vibration right now. 1.6l 3 speed auto. This would be the mount under the air intake. Is the part number for this #8177. I want to be 100% sure before ordering.
depends on which engine mount. did you check which one you need to change? or are you planning to do the shotgun approach. the back mount is the hardest to change(closest to firewall). the trans side and timing cover aren't too bad, with the front mount being the easiest.

to check your engine mounts. you will need a friend. you turn on the car, put it in gear. hold hte break and step on teh gas. if the motor moves it will show you which mount is broken. depending on the rotation. don't forget to put it in reverse and check too. the motor could rotate forward indicating a worn/broken rear mount.
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Old 09-13-2010, 06:00 AM   #6 (permalink)
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At first I wasn't sure which one it was. Then i found a broken bolt on my passenger side mount. I talked to TOYOPARTSMAN perhaps he may be able to get me the mount and the hardware(all the bolts). Im not sure if im gona replace all of them yet. I would like to, but I don't want to replace what isn't broke. I still have a few other things to work on.






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Old 09-13-2010, 09:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You need to remove the mount to tell if its OK.

I got under the hood and checked mine and saw that one bolt and two nuts hold that mount to the engine. Your nuts came loose or werent tightened properly by someone else, and the extra force broke the bolt.

I do have that bolt for you. Still want it mailed?

-SP
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Old 09-13-2010, 09:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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dang that's some carnage. there's 2 nuts on the bottom side, and one bolt on the top i believe. i hope you can get the remainder of the bolt out, or you'll have to take out the timing cover and take the whole mount out. i might have one spare if needed.
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Old 09-14-2010, 05:38 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Yes, thought you had forgot. Ive had the car for almost 6 years. Never replaced that motor mount or messed with it...As far as taking it out a buddy of mine has the easy out drill bits. Hopefully they work if not what else can i do? Why does the timing cover need to come out. I thought the whole bracket was in plain site.

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Old 09-15-2010, 02:55 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I ordered the bolts from the dealer. They should be in tomorrow. its 3 bolts and 1 main bolt which is the one broken off. Thx for helping me with this guys. I just thought it would be best to replace all of them with fresh bolts from the dealer. Kinda price at 17$ for all but its ok.
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Old 09-15-2010, 04:00 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Yes, thought you had forgot. Ive had the car for almost 6 years. Never replaced that motor mount or messed with it...As far as taking it out a buddy of mine has the easy out drill bits. Hopefully they work if not what else can i do? Why does the timing cover need to come out. I thought the whole bracket was in plain site.
when i have a broken bolt, i tend to drill it out and use an allen wrench(the cheap sets from the discount parts bin). and hammer it into the center hole. even if the hole isn't centered, most times it will be enough to turn the broken bolt free. easy outs i've broken them and then you are stuck with a hardened steel piece in the broken bolt that will need to be drilled again. i'm not sure if it's because it more brittle or something. but i'm sure once you get the mount off(bolts out) you will have a better look at what you are dealing with.

this is what i use something cheap from the discount bin at the parts store and i normally start small so incase i gotta drill larger i can.
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93 JDM AE102 20V Blacktop Blacktop Wiring DIY
The Somewhat tips and trick to the install


Proper Planning and Preparation Prevents P*** Poor Performance.

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Old 09-15-2010, 09:44 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Buy some 1/8" LEFT hand drill bits. If the bolt isnt seized drilling action will spin it out. If it is well you still have your pilot hole drilled.

-SP
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Old 09-15-2010, 09:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
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i just noticed that it looks like the stud is broken above the mount. when you take off the actual mount(that holds the rubber) you may be able to grip the remainder of the stud with a vise grip and turn it off. otherwise maybe use a stripped bolt extractor and turn it off.
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93 JDM AE102 20V Blacktop Blacktop Wiring DIY
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Proper Planning and Preparation Prevents P*** Poor Performance.
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Old 09-29-2010, 11:43 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kaitaiya View Post
i just noticed that it looks like the stud is broken above the mount. when you take off the actual mount(that holds the rubber) you may be able to grip the remainder of the stud with a vise grip and turn it off. otherwise maybe use a stripped bolt extractor and turn it off.
So i just ordered the irwin bolt grip off amazon not bad 17$. I also ordered all 4 motor mounts for the car i figured i might as well do em all. Got em from Rock auto 108$. So monday ima go to work on the Geo!!
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Old 10-06-2010, 02:55 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Ok final update. Today I went ahead and put in my new bolts for the passenger side motor mount bracket. Its funny because I was actually able to turn the broken bolt out with my hand. But Im missing 1 of the 2 nuts that goes under the motor mount. I guess it got so loose that 1 of them must have fell. Either way i was able to complete the job and ill get a hold of that nut from the dealer. The car stopped shaking runs really nice now. Im happy I finally got it done. I still have the 3 other motor mounts to replace but I really don't need them, the car doesn't shake at all. I might keep em handy for when I do need em. Or if im not too lazy one day just replace the last 3. Problem is solved thx everyone for your help.
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