Hey guys, so I'm trying to get a strut bar. Now here's the thing, some strut bars are labeled for 98-01 Corollas, but then some strut bars are labeled all the way from the early 90s to 2002. So then is there any reason a strut bar labeled for a 98-01 wouldn't work on my 94? The reason I ask is because the ones for newer models cost a couple of bucks less and I'm a brokebroke.
Thanks in advance.
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94 Prizm LSi 1.8. Auto and still quick as hell.
All suspension components from 1993 to 2002 are interchangeable.
Thank you very much, that's what I thought, it doesn't make sense any other way other than just the sellers not caring about listing proper compatibility.
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94 Prizm LSi 1.8. Auto and still quick as hell.
Almost all of the bars are two-point, though. Shouldn't make much difference for brand...TRD may have been the only company to make a three-point bar, it apparently just required a little grinding down of the throttle cable bracket. You might also be able to get something from the AE92 to fit, as I understand it the suspension layout was the same from the AE92 through the AE111 but I'm not sure that extends to strut tower spacing.
Yeah I see that you can't even really get a solid design whether you're looking at a $20 eBay one or a $100 one on a racing parts site.
After a little bit of reading I'm weary as to whether or not just the strut bar will keep the car from swaying around curbs. I think I'll save up for GR-2s and stiffer lowering springs first, my front driver shock is shot anyway.
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94 Prizm LSi 1.8. Auto and still quick as hell.
I have the TRD strut bar and I notice a difference. Ultra Racing makes a 3 pt one you can get off ebay and it's solid welds also like TRD, not bolts and nuts that allow flex, which defeats the point of a strut bar.
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1994 Corolla
The Following User Says Thank You to GTChink For This Useful Post:
Yeah I see that you can't even really get a solid design whether you're looking at a $20 eBay one or a $100 one on a racing parts site.
After a little bit of reading I'm weary as to whether or not just the strut bar will keep the car from swaying around curbs. I think I'll save up for GR-2s and stiffer lowering springs first, my front driver shock is shot anyway.
Upgrading your shocks and springs is definitely worth doing first as you'll notice a hell of a lot of difference in the lack of body roll around corners afterwards, but a strut bar will still help a little. If you really want to eliminate body roll then look into aftermarket front and rear swaybars. Pair those with some low profile tires, and your car will almost feel like it's on rails.
I noticed a difference once I installed my OEM strut bar off an AE101 Levin GT Apex (same strut bar as the AE101 Corolla GT and a few other models). Since it bolts to the firewall, it works more effectively than most straight across 2-point strut bars (particularly the ones with nuts and bolts that GT mentioned above). If you look on your firewall, you'll see two indents in the middle for where the strut bar is meant to mount. These bars are only available in the Japanese domestic market however, so might be difficult for you to find one in the US. Although I've got a spare one here if you're interested
Here's some photos of my one:
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The Following User Says Thank You to Kiwi-Corolla For This Useful Post:
Aw dude I LOVE those Ultra Racing parts!!! You really can't get them in the US though. Order from Malaysia: $70 for the bar, $93 to ship... I might just have to do it for such a quality part though!
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94 Prizm LSi 1.8. Auto and still quick as hell.
Aw dude I LOVE those Ultra Racing parts!!! You really can't get them in the US though. Order from Malaysia: $70 for the bar, $93 to ship... I might just have to do it for such a quality part though!
ebay man, try emailing them through ebay and see if they will work on the shipping cost
^ Didn't realise you had a Prizm as it wasn't mentioned in your original post . They mustn't have done it to the Prizms as there was no GT model. A JDM strut bar would still work though. You'd just have to bolt it to the strut towers, then trace around the holes on the bar with a marker pen so that you know where to drill. You'd have to move the sensor which is in the way but that'd be easy. I had to do the same with mine. Just drilled another hole further down.
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Cool, hmm... well, the thing is there is no indent, it actually kinda sticks out a little bit there, so I'm worried about clearance, not having to shave off that bit of the firewall so it fits... well if it doesn't work I could always resell it.
At least I have confirmation that Corolla headlights work, a little more space left open on the inside where the Corolla ones get a bit sharper but nothing too noticeable. I can upgrade to projectors and put real Xenons in it
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94 Prizm LSi 1.8. Auto and still quick as hell.
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1993 Toyota Corolla
. They mustn't have done it to the Prizms as there was no GT model. A JDM strut bar would still work though. You'd just have to bolt it to the strut towers, then trace around the holes on the bar with a marker pen so that you know where to drill. You'd have to move the sensor which is in the way but that'd be easy. I had to do the same with mine. Just drilled another hole further down.
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