I suceessfully removed all the belts only to find out that removing crankshaft pulley wasn't as simple as it says in the link (15. Remove the Crankshaft pulley) because we need a special tool to keep the crankshaft pulley from turning and then most likely need a pulley puller to remove it since it has been pressed on.
Other then this issue, i couldn't remove the top timing belt cover as it turns out you need to remove the top engine cover (it is also mentioned in the above link) but i coulidn't get that off either. i removed the top 4 10mm bolts, 2 10mm bolts on top of the timing belt cover and i also removed the spark plugs. Even then i could take off the top cover for the engine. The link says i have to remove valve cover too but i dont know what they are reffering to. I think i will be able to remove the crankshaft pulley now but i still need some guidance removing the engine top cover. So can somebody please help me out here?
You should be able to get the upper cover off by removing the valve cover first. The valve cover is the very top part of your engine. Simply remove the four main nuts, then remove the 2 bolts which cover the wiring loom (seen to the far left of the photo below). Then you simply slide the wiring loom over the side of the valve cover, pull out the PCV valve, disconnect the hose and take it off.
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Last edited by Kiwi-Corolla; 10-11-2010 at 07:17 PM.
Other then this issue, i couldn't remove the top timing belt cover as it turns out you need to remove the top engine cover (it is also mentioned in the above link) but i coulidn't get that off either. i removed the top 4 10mm bolts, 2 10mm bolts on top of the timing belt cover and i also removed the spark plugs. Even then i could take off the top cover for the engine. The link says i have to remove valve cover too but i dont know what they are reffering to. I think i will be able to remove the crankshaft pulley now but i still need some guidance removing the engine top cover. So can somebody please help me out here?
The valve cover is the 'top engine cover' that you are referring to. The actual name for that is the valve cover, pictured above.
It should have come off after removing those 6 bolts. Tap it gently with a rubber mallet or something like that and it should pop off.
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94 Prizm LSi 1.8. Auto and still quick as hell.
Pray that it isn't like mine... went to remove it this weekend to replace the gasket. Was stuck like you wouldn't believe. A rubber mallet or wood block/hammer should be enough to break the seal though. When you do the cover, make sure that you torque the 4 main bolts to 52 inch pounds or it will leak. The screws for the wire loom don't have a torque setting, just go until they are tight. The gasket is usable if it isn't hardened or damaged, so if you're gonna reuse the gasket make sure you don't use a plastic putty knife to break the seal.
Dont forget to buy new spak plug well seals with the calve cover gasket.
You dont need a "special" tool for the crank bolt. Remove the flywheel cover and use a large screwdriver to lock the flywheel then remove the bolt. Hopefully you have a friend to help or some really long arms.
I'm about to check/replace timing belt for the first time and just wanted to verify which direction the crank bolt turns to release. Is Righty, tighty and lefty loosy apply to crank bolt as well?
for the bolt ur referring too the one that spins. I just did my timing belt we used an impact for that bolt. came on no sweat. And as for a puller you don't need one. Or at least we didn't yes there is pressur on it but if you know it from behind with a hammer GENTLY it will slowly nudge off. I had to put it back on and off a couple time to make sure the mark on the wheel was still set on zero. And each time u put it on it didn't get any easir had to use the hammer to nudge it off.
If you are doing a driveway job, you could leave it in gear, as well as get a wrench on the cam gear bolt and let the other end of the wrench rest on the head as you try and loosen the bolt.
If your timing belt has snapped, then I'm not sure if the starter method will work as far as loosening the bolt.
Thank you for the response, but I still do not know which direction to turn the wrench to loosen the bolt on the crank pulley. I read many articles/forums and I even have Chilton's repair manual, but none mentions which direction the bolt needs to turn to loosen.
Turn left to loosen and turn right to tighten. Is this correct?
Yes the crank bolt is lefty loosie righty tighty. Do you have the 7A-Fe? I did my first timing belt on the side of the highway a few years ago.
In my opinion the most important aspect in the timing belt install, is getting a new belt tension roller, but more importantly, torquing it down to spec. Since my motor is non interference, luckily I didn't hurt anything internally. But don't quote me on the torque specs as I don't have a manual in front of me, but it was something light like 11 ft lbs or so. The first time I did my belt I tightened the 10mm bolt holding that belt roller down till I thought it was snug, but it froze after 5k miles and the timing belt melted causing a big mess, as well as a large towing bill.
Overall the timing belt job is not too hard. Last belt I did was two years and 100k miles ago on my rolla. But from what I can remember I did:
**this is ghetto side of the highway timing belt job....just saying..***
-Undid the 6 bolts holding valve cover on. No need to drain oil. Pry off with a flathead.
-Undo alternator pivot tention bolt. The long one. Remove alternator belt
-Loosen 12mm bolt that tensions the AC belt. Remove belt.
-Remove cruise control assembly
-Remove the top bolts to the motor mount on the passenger side shock tower located under the CC assembly.
-Loosen wheel nuts
-Use factory jack and use a wood block (I used school textbook).
-Jack up the car from the oil pan gently. This will cause the motor to lift and motor mount will separate.
-Remove plastic splash guards.
-Grab 17mm socket and breaker bar for the crank pulley along with 17mm socket.
-Go to the top of the motor and secure the engine rotation by getting an open end 14mm, and grab the cam gear nut and crank it by hand until the other end rests on the engine. We're on the side of the highway here. We have no choice.
-Place breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley. Jump on it unitl it comes loose.
-Remove crank pulley.
-Remove all 10mm bolts holding on the two timing belt covers.
-Now you see the timing belt. Loosen the belt roller/tensioner.
-Take the belt off the bottom and from the top you have to slip it around the motor mount since it is attached to the block. This is why we jacked the engine up from the oil pan.
-Make sure engine and cam gear are at top dead center. You have to reinstal the lower timing cover as well as the crank pulley and align so the marks on the pulley and the timing cover are at top dead center.
-Turn the cam gear so that the hole on the cam gear spoke is aligned with the TDC mark on the head. Now you are completely at TDC.
-Remove crank pulley and lower cover.
-Carefully install new timing belt.
-Install roller tensioner and tighten it down to spec which I don't remember.
-Install timing belt covers.
-Install valve cover.
-Install crank pulley.
-Start car with everything else off just to make sure the belt was installed correctly.
-Take a moment and say **** yeah!
-Install alternator belt and bolt. Tighten down until the belt has ample tension.
-Reinstall AC belt and tighten down the 12mm bolt in the abyss, until it has tension.
-Done.
I'm sure I missed a few things. When this happened, I had some friends bring me some tools.
Pray that it isn't like mine... Was stuck like you wouldn't believe. A rubber mallet or wood block/hammer should be enough to break the seal though.
when I went to do mine I had a similer issue block n hammer just wasnt cuttin it. turns out the 4 gromets near the spark plugs MUST be removed first. I had to get a small chizel to break the seal and then start cranking them off. eventually I could get neadel nose pliars in to start unscrewing them.
side note: after the top cover comes off and you get the first side cover. the middle side cover was tough for me to get off and just about impossible to get it back on proper. any one ever run in to that?
TDC is a simple matter since the shaft is keyed you wont get the pully on in the wrong spot. as supra mentions there is a pair of holes in the gears so you can keep it all ligned up.
supra you got lucky with your main bolt... I had a tire changer iron [4' steel bar with a finger on one end for mounting tires] jamed in the starter hole and had at it with a stinking air wrench and breaker for about an hr before it came loose.. shoulda put a wrench in the upper where you mentioned.
Did my valve cover gasket yesterday. After smacking it a few times with the rubber mallet, I just decided to use a flat-head to pry up the sides. The grommets came out really easily for me, they were badly worn so didn't need much more than just stiff twisting and pulling.
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94 Prizm LSi 1.8. Auto and still quick as hell.
When the grommets and gasket get old they get hard as a rock and make it hard to get the cover off. As I said before get new ones since the old ones will no longer seal.
when I went to do mine I had a similer issue block n hammer just wasnt cuttin it. turns out the 4 gromets near the spark plugs MUST be removed first. I had to get a small chizel to break the seal and then start cranking them off. eventually I could get neadel nose pliars in to start unscrewing them.
Thanks for the tip, I'll keep this in mind when I try to attempt it again. I thought the spark plug seals may be stuck, but was afraid to try anything. I put so much force on prying this cover it felt like the front bumper was gonna touch the ground.
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1993 Toyota Corolla
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