The 95' Prizm Lsi passed inspection today, but they did point out I will need to replace the left side axle. The boot was pulled back (at some point) and it hasn't had grease for some time.
- What manual is available and best for general maintenance and repair?
- I typically use Autozone and/or O'Reily's, are they pretty good for Toyota/Prizm parts?
- I'm driving the car approx. 400 miles/week, can I wait for a convenient time (in a month or two) to fix OR shoud I make it a priority. No noise at this point, but the mech. said I would start hearing it when I turn corners.
I agree, no rush, but don't agree with buying the axle at Autozone, etc. Been there, done that - got a bad axle and had to do the job twice - and I've heard that's pretty common. At least for my money, I would pay for OEM.
I agree, no rush, but don't agree with buying the axle at Autozone, etc. Been there, done that - got a bad axle and had to do the job twice - and I've heard that's pretty common. At least for my money, I would pay for OEM.
Thanks guys,
Nice link BoyYota. I will get the Haynes as well so I can study up a little before tackling. I'm planning on getting some additional use out of this high mileage car, so I'm sure I will need the manual for other repairs.
I would be interested in any other opinions on parts suppliers or OEM vs. cheaper. I'm not sure what the tire shop quoted, but would assume OEM and it was about $80. I will call the parts stores and see what is out there. I like NAPA as well and will include them.
From the link, it looks pretty straight forward, though I've not had the best of luck with pickle forks. I assume that is what is typically used if the joints don't knock out easily?
I've not been under the car yet, is there a visible frame for placing jack stands?
It is an easy job but a bit intimidating. The hardest part is removing the axle nut if its typical. Sometimes the axle is stubborn to get out of the trans and that takes a little extra work.
I stopped buying from autozone years ago because of poor quality of their parts. I dont have oreillys in my neighborhood so I cant comment on their stock. I've also done VERY well online with better than autozone prices at their price or less.
It is an easy job but a bit intimidating. The hardest part is removing the axle nut if its typical. Sometimes the axle is stubborn to get out of the trans and that takes a little extra work.
I stopped buying from autozone years ago because of poor quality of their parts. I dont have oreillys in my neighborhood so I cant comment on their stock. I've also done VERY well online with better than autozone prices at their price or less.
-SP
Hello again,
I will probably be doing this at my boss' shop so I'll have access to the air tools, etc. Sounds pretty staight forward, I'm sure the Haynes will answer most questions. I spoke with one of the local Chevy dealers today and the OEM part was $600+, the mechanic I spoke with said they typically go with CarQuest and while he didn't sing their praises, he preferred them to some of the others. And for 1/10 the price, it doesn't need to be OEM quality .
I did the right axle on my 93 wagon last week it was like $60 from car-quest my cost. Fairly straight forward hardest part is popping the axle out, I would also get a new axle seal for that side as they are probably original. I didn't do mine and a week later it started leaking so I had to tare it apart a second time.
I have a auto trans not sure if thats what you have. I got a few drips of ATF when I took the axle out nothing big though. It might be different with a manual trans.
At $600.00 each I would go to NAPA or Autozone and take my chances, too, but I gotta tell you, that's BS. You can get new Toyota OEM Axles online for about $175 or so each. Still a lot more than Carquest, but nowhere near $600.00.
i cant comment on prices or where to get things in the US but if you are handy with tools you will get the driveshaft/cv joint changed within an hour.
easiest way: loosen and take off the wheel, loosen the 30mm nut on the driveshaft, loosen the 3x 17mm nuts holding the balljoint to the wishbone.then the whole hub assembly will allow to be pulled to the side and the CV joint can be popped out of the hub.then with a bit of leverage between the inner CV joint cup and the gearbox casing the inner cv cup will pop out.be aware if you dont open the 24mm nut at the bottom of the gearbox gear oil will seep out of where the driveshaft came out of.
if you have a manual 'box, it takes a little over a litre of gear oil to refill.refill the oil through the hole at the top near the side 'box mount, 6mm hex i think is where I refill it.there are 2 6mm hex though.the 24mm nut at the front is to check the oil, it should be under the bottom of the hole when refilled (manual again, not sure about the auto 'box).
hope this helps,
Nicky
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