I have been having some problems bottoming out on big bumps and finally got it looked at. Turns out I need to replace all my struts, springs, mounts, and bumpers. I was thinking about getting some D2 coilovers to simplified replacing everything. Also thought about Tokico HP struts and Eibach Pro Kit springs. I have a budget to keep in mind. The maximum I can spend is $1000. When I was looking at D2's I notice I get two different model numbers D2-T09 and D2-T010. Which one do I get if I go with D2? I plan on doing the work in my driveway. I haven't done much with suspension, don't have much knowledge there. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. If anyone knows some reputable sites to buy the stuff from that would help a lot as well.
Alright. Thanks for the info. That will help greatly. Any idea on how I should go about removing the old strut since they are the factory ones. I assume a lot of rust and might have to torch it.
Nah, I really would be suprised if a torch was necessary. You want to unbolt the entire strut assembly. Once you remove the brakes and all, you unbolt the two lower strut mount bolts. You will prolly need a breaker bar for those since they are pretty tight, Also the upper strut mounting nuts are pretty easy for the front. Open the hood and there they are. The back you will remove the back seat ass cushion by pulling up in the front (snaps in), then you will see the two lower bolts for the rear side bolsters. remove it and lift up on the side bolster and it will come right off exposing the upper strut mounting nuts. Also be sure if you have ABS you remove the speed sensor bracket that bolts to the strut and you will have to remove the brake line held in by a slide in clip.
The stabilizer bar links are a pain to remove. You need a hex wrench to hold the stud in place while undoing the nut. If you manage not to round of the hole (which will be rusty and full of dirt), you will likely twist the hex wrench beyond recognition. It is only like 4mm thick. The nuts have platic loctite in them to prevent them from getting loose, which naturally makes them way harder to remove. I would count on having to destroy the links and getting new ones.
yea, I couldn't find my D2's for any cheaper than $925 plus ship. And Yes, I would suggest changing all your links, ends, bushings, and ball joints If you can spare the extra money. That's what I'm doin. And if you have trouble with the sway bar links. A good skinny vise-grip should hold it in place so you can loosen the nut. But it will def destroy the link in the process.
Anyone know where I can get the coilovers. First place I ordered from said they were out of stock, so I cancelled the order. Second place I called before ordering and they were on back order.
Got my coilovers and installed them. Like ganda1f said, the stabilizer bar link hex did get rounded. I'll have to go buy a set tomorrow. The hole from the link on the coilovers were much higher then the stock hole. I had to put a lot of force on the link to have it match up.
Anyways, ended up getting KSport instead of D2. Here's a picture of the coilovers. I'll post pictures of my car when I get a chance.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Coilovers
hey bro ebay sells the D-2 coilovers for about 650 shipped
Linear Mode
