My sons 96 Corolla has 170K miles on it.It uses a qt. of oil about every 1K miles or so.He is currently using Super Tech 5W30 oil.I went to an oil only website seeking advice and they suggested 10W40.What are ya'll using at how many mile OCIs?
My car doesn't count, as it only has 18k miles on it.
If you were referring to Bob's oil site, you should ask them what they think about Engine Restore. Though I have no experience with it, I know several people who swear by it. They say that it decreased the amount of oil they consumed in their high mileage cars.
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If you want to enjoy your car....stay off the internet.
5w30 Castrol or Valvoline..don't really matter since these cars will still run with barely any oil in the engine lol
Oddly, I put 3.5 quarts in every change as instructed, keep the oil level near the F on the dipstick, but only ever get 2 quarts out during a change, and it takes 3.5 to fill it up again. Of course it was also using a quart every 300 miles, and a bottle of STP oil treatment. turned this into using NOTHING. Weirdest car ever.
I however use 10w30, whatever is on sale... Castrol, Valvoline, Quakerstate, whatever.
5w30 regular dino oil at 141k miles. No noticeable oil burning. I have been considering moving to high mileage oil though. But I guess if it ain't broke...
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1997 Corolla CE - Sold as of 2/2012
2009 Corolla LE
2008 Mazda B2300
Penrite HPR30 - 20W60. You can get away with running oil that thick in Australia, plus it does help with the burning issue (manual states 15W40 or 20W50 as standard, since we never get close to freezing temperatures). Thats on a 345,000km never-been-opened 7AFE by the way.
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Charlene - 1997 AE102 sedan: FXGT of awesome
Billie - 1981 KE55 sedan: GOOOONNNE
Rosie - 1986 AE82 Twincam Seca: Converted into garage space
Charlie - 1988 ST62 liftback: Moored in the garage
Lexi - 1995 JZZ30 GTTL: Hunting n00bs in Skylines and SS Commodores
Last edited by Hiro Protagonist; 05-06-2011 at 02:08 AM.
Oddly, I put 3.5 quarts in every change as instructed, keep the oil level near the F on the dipstick, but only ever get 2 quarts out during a change, and it takes 3.5 to fill it up again. Of course it was also using a quart every 300 miles, and a bottle of STP oil treatment. turned this into using NOTHING. Weirdest car ever.
I however use 10w30, whatever is on sale... Castrol, Valvoline, Quakerstate, whatever.
I had the same problem for a while, but not as bad. I used Pennzoil 10W-30. During an oil change i put some seafoam in with the oil and haven't lost oil since. I assume there was some carbon build up on the valve seats. You might want to give it a try.
As I understand it the smaller the difference between the numbers the better oil it is. Higher weights of oil add to drag and lower your efficiency.
Not really. The two numbers refer to relative viscosity at cold and hot running temperatures. Ideally you want something relatively thin for cold startup (ie low first number) to make sure that everything gets lubricated quickly, but at the same time you don't want too thin at running temperature (ie the second number) that it leaks past worn seals etc. Multi-weight oils were invented exactly for that reason, so you can have a thin oil at low temperatures but at higher temperatures it doesn't get too thin (oil gets thinner as it heats up) that it becomes ineffective.
True, thicker oil may degrade performance slightly, but there are other benefits (reduced valve-train noise, reduced oil consumption if rings or stem-seals are not excessively worn, etc).
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Charlene - 1997 AE102 sedan: FXGT of awesome
Billie - 1981 KE55 sedan: GOOOONNNE
Rosie - 1986 AE82 Twincam Seca: Converted into garage space
Charlie - 1988 ST62 liftback: Moored in the garage
Lexi - 1995 JZZ30 GTTL: Hunting n00bs in Skylines and SS Commodores
Once it gets to the oil-burning stage, nothing much matters. I've run straight 30, 5-30, 10-30, 15-40 (I was really frustrated, don't judge me!), synthetics, high-mileage formulations, Seafoam, B12, Auto-RX, ATF...haven't really noticed any difference in burn/retention rate other than synthetics going up in smoke a little quicker, which is to be expected.
1Q per ~600 miles, for the last 140K miles...
Tell your son to find a decent Jiffy Lube or somewhere that'll do free topups. 5 quarts in 5K miles (what Toyota recommends for non severe duty) would run you about $25 by itself...not bad for a $20 oil change if you're getting $45 worth of oil!
Once it gets to the oil-burning stage, nothing much matters.
Agreed! When I get some extra time I will change the valve stem seals and that should reduce it some. A teardown is necessary for ring replacement so of course economics plays a part there.
I was amused at "carbon buildup on valve seats" being blamed for consumption. But if Seafoam helped your problem. I'm cool with that.
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1993 Toyota Corolla
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