Glovebox rattle? Things to check for in an older car?

[BrianAbrigana]

Hi, I'm new to the forums, and I just got my driver's license! Now that I finally got it, my mom decided to let me have our '96 corolla. I've been riding in this car since I was 7, so it's nice to still have it in good condition.

The only problem is that I'm really a perfectionist, and the glovebox rattles very noticeably at times, and especially when I put the car into the reverse. Actually, come to think of it, the whole car vibrates a lot when I put it into reverse. I don't remember if it was like this when it was new. Should it be vibrating so noticeably when I put it in reverse?

Also, this car has about 70k miles on it, and to my knowledge, the only maintenance we've ever done is changing the tires, the brakes, and the routine oil changes. Is there anything I should look out for that should be replaced or will need to be replaced soon? I just refilled the coolant reservoir today, it was at low.

Also, I'm always carpooling with friends to college, and it's kind of a pain to have manual locks. Do you think installing it would be expensive and not worth it? Anyone know what I should expect to get it installed aftermarket? I don't really care about having manual windows, as there's always AC. I just want to be able to let my passengers in quickly, especially if it's cold or raining on that day, or we're in a sketchy neighborhood.

I know this is a pretty long first post, haha. I've got a lot of questions...

[Bitter]

1. timing belt, thermostat, coolant, hoses need to be changed...now!
2. replace the front, and side motor mounts
3. replace the transmission and differential fluids
4. replace the brake fluid.

[Steelballz]

Originally Posted by Bitter

1. timing belt, thermostat, coolant, hoses need to be changed...now!
2. replace the front, and side motor mounts
3. replace the transmission and differential fluids
4. replace the brake fluid.

I agree mostly with the above.timing belt is first priority and has to be done asap if it never was, also flush out the coolant system and replace with fresh coolant.I dont see why you should change the thermostat or coolant hoses though, unless it overheats or leaks coolant noticably dont change them and save your money.
do check over the engine and gearbox mounts, one of them is probably faulty, hence the rattles.also check the tyres for bulges and tyre balancing/tracking.
replace the brake fluid, and if its manual the clutch fluid too.depending on how it looks in the power steering reservoir (ie clean or a brown sludge), possibly change that too.
after that the car should be very healthy.if its manual, check that the biting point of the clutch isn't very high off the car floor or you'll need a clutch soon, and also check the front break pads too.

is it auto or manual btw?

[BrianAbrigana]

It's an automatic.

So you're saying that one of the that the engine and gearbox mounts is faulty which is causing the glovebox rattle? I have no idea how to check any of these things, but I'm not an idiot with my hands. I do like to take apart stuff and put it back together, I've done this with laptops, PC towers, and countless other electronics. I've also done some DIY wood work and those sorts of things around the home, so do you think I could check some of these things myself, or would I be better off paying someone to do it all? If there's anything that you think I could do myself, could you say so?

I understand that changing the timing belt is urgent, and apparently so is the thermostat and coolant. Anything else that really needs a change?

Hopefully the sticky can shed some light on how to check some of these. Also uh...how much do you think a timing belt repair will cost to be repaired? Time to look up timing belt on wikipedia....

[Bitter]

when you drain the coolant to change the hoses and thermostat you're also pretty much getting your flush. If you so desire, you can drain the block as well from the block drain on the back of the engine. You change the thermostat and hoses because they're over 10 years old and worn out.

Usually worn mounts will cause excess vibrations to be transmitted into the car, which it sounds like you have.

Replacing the trans fluid will get it shifting smooth as glass again like when it was new.

Brake fluid absorbs water over time and turns acidic and can destroy the rubber seals inside the master cylinder and as it absorbs water the boiling point gets lower, so if on some 100 degree day you slam on your brakes from highway speeds it could boil and you loose all your brakes! Good chance also that your rear wheel cylinders are leaking, take the drums off and push the rubber boots back with a blunt screw driver to check for fluid, it should be dry.

[e10097]

Hi

Its good to see someone else inheriting the trusty Corolla, i recieved mine from my father i have been travelling in it since i was a small child as well.

I had some issues with rattles in my car as well but most of the rattles were coming from the plastic storage compartments. So to eliminate these problems you could line the glovebox and other compartments with felt (can be purchased from craft stores). It really works to absorb any rattles from pens etc.

Thanks

Jakes

[96coroll]

Change you tming belt I had this issue with my car started only in reverse and than got worse and worse that the vibration came when turning left.

Your going to need to change the timing belt and tensioner. but this is NOT a beginner mechanic job. As this is not nessiarly very labour intensive. But you have to know what your doing to have the engine line up. Or you could be attempting for days.

I also second or thrid that you should change your tanny fluid. car will love you.

-leo

[BrianAbrigana]

Yeah, I was reading about the timing belt, I'm not even going to attempt that one, lol. I better scrounge up some money to get that timing belt replaced, I wonder how much it'll end up being. I'll get the transmission fluid changed out after I get a new timing belt put in.

I'll try that tip about felt for the rattles.

Thanks for all of your help guys.

[wei]

Originally Posted by Bitter

3. replace the transmission and differential fluids

Is the differential fluid different from transmission fluid on an auto?

[Bitter]

Originally Posted by wei

Is the differential fluid different from transmission fluid on an auto?

depends which automatic.

[wei]

Originally Posted by Bitter

depends which automatic.

Let's say the base 3 speed auto

[Bitter]

separate.

[wei]

Originally Posted by Bitter

separate.

Oh okay. Is it a beginner DIY job?

[blumonster]

Originally Posted by BrianAbrigana

Yeah, I was reading about the timing belt, I'm not even going to attempt that one, lol. I better scrounge up some money to get that timing belt replaced, I wonder how much it'll end up being. I'll get the transmission fluid changed out after I get a new timing belt put in.

I'll try that tip about felt for the rattles.

Thanks for all of your help guys.

Do not even spend money on timing belt.

Your engine is a non-intervention type engine, even if timing belt breaks, disintegrates, evaporates this does not cause engine damage at all. If it happens all it will do is strand you where it happens.That's it.

I changed timing belt on my car at 120,000 miles. Yours have just 70,000 miles? So timing belt is NOT a priority for you. You can forget about it.

Thermostat? If it is broken replace it, if not why change it?

Change transmission& differential fluid (if it is 3 speed). Just drain and refill will be fine. Easier than oil change and cheap too. You can spend your money on Redline D4 ATF.

Your car needs DEXIII for BOTH differential and transmission. Same fluid, not different fluid but differential should be drained and filled seperately.

Hoses? Check their condition.If there are areas where there are bulges, soft spots on cooling hoses, replace them.If not, do not.

Check your fuel and brake lines. But since you live in CA you do not have road salt killer, rust should not be an issue for your car.You are lucky.

If you are not feeling vibrations on steering wheel when idling, no need to replace motor mounts.

[BrianAbrigana]

Originally Posted by blumonster

Do not even spend money on timing belt.

Your engine is a non-intervention type engine, even if timing belt breaks, disintegrates, evaporates this does not cause engine damage at all. If it happens all it will do is strand you where it happens.That's it.

I changed timing belt on my car at 120,000 miles. Yours have just 70,000 miles? So timing belt is NOT a priority for you. You can forget about it.

Thermostat? If it is broken replace it, if not why change it?

Change transmission& differential fluid (if it is 3 speed). Just drain and refill will be fine. Easier than oil change and cheap too. You can spend your money on Redline D4 ATF.

Your car needs DEXIII for BOTH differential and transmission. Same fluid, not different fluid but differential should be drained and filled seperately.

Hoses? Check their condition.If there are areas where there are bulges, soft spots on cooling hoses, replace them.If not, do not.

Check your fuel and brake lines. But since you live in CA you do not have road salt killer, rust should not be an issue for your car.You are lucky.

If you are not feeling vibrations on steering wheel when idling, no need to replace motor mounts.

Thanks for your input. I do have vibrations through the steering wheel when idling. I'm not sure about the timing belt, getting conflicting advice... If I don't get it changed now, how will I know when it's time to change it? I'll check the hoses as well.