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7th Generation (1993-1997) Specific discussion of the 7th generation

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Old 06-01-2011, 11:22 AM   #1 (permalink)
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CV Replacement

Was wondering how difficult a task it is and what to look out for when replacing my CV Joints on my 1995 Corolla?

Any assistance or wisdom would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Irish
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Old 06-01-2011, 01:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Replacing a joint is a pain. Replacing an axle is semi hard.

-SP
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Old 06-02-2011, 12:29 AM   #3 (permalink)
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you need a 30mm deep socket and a good breaker bar, then unbolt the lower ball joint remove the wheel side then tap the inner out with a extension or some round bar and a hammer. manual says replace C-Clips ive done it without IDK...

Oh drain the transmission or if its a 3 speed the diff. And crack the fill plug loose before draining just so its not stuck!
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Old 06-02-2011, 09:16 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks Guys!

Ok, well guess i will start slow and when i have plenty of time and don't need to drive anywhere. LOL Sounds like I may want to get another to do this too. I'll keep ya posted.
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Old 06-02-2011, 07:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I agree with these guys, It was a PITA when I replaced them on my AE92 a few years back. Just take your time and you will be fine. It's not complicated so much, just a pain. lol
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Old 06-04-2011, 01:33 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Sorry to threadjack but I was just going to ask what the best source for a new CV is? Napa has limited lifetime warranty, and offers new units (called Carquest and theirs was reman). It was $74 for left front non-abs. Anyone recommend a particular retailer? I'm not spending $300+ for an OEM one.
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Old 06-05-2011, 09:58 AM   #7 (permalink)
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The one with the NAPA sticker is doing well on my car but the clamp on the inner boot came loose somehow. I have an Advance unit on the other side.

SO far even the discount retailers havent screwed up axles like they have other engine parts.

-SP
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Old 06-09-2011, 10:24 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I found out that the Napa Maxdrive, which is relatively highly regarded, is rebranded Cardone Select, which you can find cheaper at Rock Auto and Amazon. I ordered mine from Amazon for $55 (free shipping) compared to $74 at NAPA. That's new, not reman.

While we're on the subject, I plan to replace my wheel bearing/hub/seals while the driver's side CV is removed, and am wondering if there's anything else it makes sense to replace from a labor overlap perspective (ball joint/tension rod/LCA bushings)? My car has 150k miles of mostly highway driving.
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Old 06-09-2011, 03:58 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You will just have to see when you take stuff apart. Some parts wear out from age alone and others from mileage.

-SP
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