Engine Judder in First

[m|ng]

Hi Mates! Im new to the ToyotaNation board.
Hope I could get some guidance on my problem that I've been facing.

Back in January I changed the clutch, bearing, pressure plate (the whole lot) on my Corolla AE101. The stuff were from Aisin. Ever since then I've been having this random "judder" from the engine whenever the engine is on idle, and the clutch depressed while in first gear after a long drive through traffic.

scenario (in sequence):
- you are in a jam, and you have first gear engaged, so you crawl through the jam.
- when the car in front stops, you depress the clutch pedal to free (BUT you are still in first gear).
- the engine would judder sometimes. Its like the gear is not totally free and it keeps tugging at the car.
- Solution is to pull the gear out from 1 to neutral, and it will be gone.

But at anytime the car is moving, there's no problems whatsoever. No slips, no knocking noises, nothing.

Any ideas? It would not happen all the time. just that it would likely happen when it gets hotter? (usually after a long drive). I have changed the clutch pumps last week, but it still happens.

I took it to the mechanics but I couldn't replicate the problem on the spot.

It's making my drive very frustrating. Any help would be greatly appreciated

[djfoxx]

thats not cool.maybe in time it will wear and then your problem will be gone

[speedy25]

I really dont understand this post as written. Judder is typically a "vibration" as the clutch engages. Most common cause is contamination of the clutch surfaces. Usually fron careless greasy fingers on assembly. The other possible problem is bad engine mounts. Front and rear seem to fail first. My front one was disintegrated while the rear one had separated but wasnt so easy to see.

-SP

[sam333]

Yeh, I think I know what he means . The clutch does not disengage when the clutch is pushed in and the engine starts to die /lug when going slow in first gear. Disc could be contaminated (like what speedy said) and sticking when it gets hot or splines on shaft are sticking to splines in disc. Thats assuming that the rest of your clutch is working right .

[Bitter]

try replacing the master and slave cylinders.

[m|ng]

Originally Posted by sam333

Yeh, I think I know what he means . The clutch does not disengage when the clutch is pushed in and the engine starts to die /lug when going slow in first gear. Disc could be contaminated (like what speedy said) and sticking when it gets hot or splines on shaft are sticking to splines in disc. Thats assuming that the rest of your clutch is working right .

Thanks Sam. You've got me right. I bought it to another mechanic and he says there are no clutch slips. should I have the clutch taken apart and checked for oil contamination on the flywheel/clutch plates? that would usually need a fair bit of time and new gear oil.

[sam333]

So by "no clutch slips" do you mean when shifting gears the clutch does not shift smoothly( just grabs)?
Like Bitter said too, make sure that everything before the clutch( pedal ,bracket, master and slave cylinder) are working and have enough movement to disengage your clutch fully before you pull your trans or engine to check for problems.

[m|ng]

The guy did a test on an incline and he did not find the clutch to slip (you know those worn-out clutch symptoms). so he concluded that the clutch pads are fine.

After you get the car moving, shifting around is a breeze. shifts like a toyota should.
the pain is when the car is crawling through traffic, it grabs. Or when I hit reverse, usually it will crunches (but that is another matter)

I've replaced almost everything i can on a clutch level (i THINK). Bearings, plates, clutch disc, seals, master and slave cylinders).

[Bitter]

have someone look through the inspection hole, push the clutch in, have them tell you if it sinks back into engagement. What happens if you start in second or creep second in traffic?

[hoangtony1993]

when you replaced you clutch did you also get your flywheel machined too?

[m|ng]

Originally Posted by Bitter

have someone look through the inspection hole, push the clutch in, have them tell you if it sinks back into engagement. What happens if you start in second or creep second in traffic?

The car will judder badly, I'd need to counter it with some extra gas

Originally Posted by hoangtony1993

when you replaced you clutch did you also get your flywheel machined too?

Nope. I didnt. Should I? The dude said the flywheel is fine, no signs of uneven wear and tear.

[hoangtony1993]

yes you should machine ur fly wheel,because if your clutch is shaking thats means its wearing out and your flywheel will mostly be uneven or burnt.but if you trust your mechanic then dont worry.

[m|ng]

Well I did insist that he checked it and replace it if its necessary, but he said its still good. Now the problem is, I don't really trust him cause his jobs are getting sloppier by the months. I went to a couple of different mechanics and they are reluctant to open it up cause they do not exactly know what the problem is and are concerned about me wasting unnecessary money.

So possible problems could be
- Clutch/flywheel contamination
- Uneven flywheel?

[hoangtony1993]

yeah you should watching out for mefchanics,you never know when one is ripping you off.i would know i was a mechanic LOL plus my car levin bzg ae111 had similar problem but worse.the clutch would also shake and make a banging noise everything time i ride the clutch.i just changed the clutch and machined the flywheeel and it was all sweet after wards.by the way how mu8ch did he charge you?

[m|ng]

LOL. Mate. Been down that road (being ripped). No surprises there.
Well the entire cost (bearings, seals, Aisin pressure plate, Aisin Clutch, toyota gear oil) for about rm700, so in dollars it's about $233?

Not sure how does that stack up to the rates in your country, but in Malaysia, we have cheaper workmanship (i think)