Engine turns-off unexpectedly - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Phil32 · 06-08-2011, 09:56 AM

Hi all,
Sorry for the long post....

Needs some help/direction from the board members please.

Here is the info:
1996 Corolla Auto with 220K on the clock
Car has been great until about a month ago when one morning it did not want to start.
Engine turns over but it would not start.
Had it towed and a new complete distributer was replaced.
Ran ok for 1-2 weeks, and then again the same problem accrued. For no reason at all, it will not start.
After several more towing sessions to the garage, they could not diagnose the problem. It seems it is sporadic. Leave it for a while, and it will start up again.
This time I had it towed to a different garage, unfortunately they could not diagnose the problem either due to it working again.

Moving ahead, not only does it not want to start first thing in the morning, but it is starting to turn its self off while you are driving it (very dangerous).

This morning it did not want to start up again (cranks fine but no joy).
After searching and reading the forum, I decided to do some of my own investigating.
With the key in on position, I found out that I was not getting any power to the distributor.
Check all fuses and they all seem ok...including the AM2.

I don’t want to have it towed again (I believe this will be the 6th time) and only to find out that it all works again. Not only that, car is not very safe to be driven this way.

What would you recommend that I check next? Any ideas?
Is there a relay or something else that might be causing this intermittent problem?

All input/recommendations are graciously received.

Again, sorry for the long post....
Phil

speedy25 · 06-08-2011, 01:01 PM

Strange that the repair people didnt check for power to the distributor. (WEll maybe not. Mechanics tend to understand electricity LEAST!!)

AM2 is listed in my diagram as a switched feed for the ignition. Black/orange is the 12v wire to the distributor. What exactly are YOU measuring?

If you poke around you will find a fairly recent post about a reman distributor not working, while an older junkyard piece is reliable.

-SP

Phil32 · 06-08-2011, 02:03 PM

Thanks for your reply speedy.
I am using my mad method of eliminations.

When the car behaves normally I do have power at the distributor connection (12v), not sure about the color of the wire, I will need to check.

When the car does not want to start, if I check the same wire at the distributor connection, I do not show any power. Nothing!

I am guessing here, that something is not allowing the voltage (12v) to get to the distributor.
What that is, I have no clue or idea.

I was thinking of running a small feed wire from the battery + (pos) terminal to that wire and see if that would make it start.

Or would I be risking damaging the electrics?
Any other ideas?

Thx.
Phil

Tech1984 · 06-08-2011, 03:56 PM

I've seen intermittent open circuits in the engine wiring harness between the engine and firewall. It seems heat is a factor here.
Best way to tell is engine running and do the wiggle test to try and stall it. Only seen several in all these years, but they were high mileage cars.
Here's something else to check. When it's not starting, OHM out the crank sensor connector. Very easy to get at. If you see mega ohms, there's your problem.
Leaky water pumps like to leak down on to the crank sensor and mess them up.

Phil32 · 06-08-2011, 07:27 PM

Thanks tech for your help!
I will give that a try and see what happens.
One thing is for sure, it is definatly getting worse.
I have misplaced the manual and was wondering where does that Pos (+) wire from the distributor come from? Is it coming from the fuse box or???
Just wanting to give it a good trace and see if there is some visable partial brakage in that line.
i will check out that crank sensor and see what i come up with.
Thanks,
phil

Tech1984 · 06-08-2011, 08:57 PM

Good question and I'm glad you asked. The ignition switch is where it starts. On the open switch side it's the AM2 (white wire/red stripe)
On the closed side of the ign switch it's IG2 (black wire) all the way to the distrib.
From the ign sw IG2 goes through the fuse block like you were saying.
It goes in at connector 1B in the fuse block, and comes out at connector 1G to the distrib.
Connector EA1 ENGINE WIRE AND ENGINE ROOM MAIN WIRE (NEAR THE BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER) is the only connector between 1G and distrib. Worth checking there too.
If you're loosing power, B+, and this is why I'm glad you asked, it's because it's loosing it in the fuse block.
And I happen to remember many of these burning up. Just unbolt it, flip it around, and you'll see hot spots. If you tap on it while running, you may just get it to stall.
Good hunting. I've given you plenty to look for.

Phil32 · 06-09-2011, 08:03 AM

Thanks again Tech!
Some feedback incase other people run into the same problem.

Took the air cleaner assy out so i could trase that + wire from the distributor.
One benifit was that this morning there was no power at the distributor, hence no start. After pocking around, I did end up finding out where that pos (+) wire goes to.
I am not sure what its called but it goes into a small metal box that is located just under the diagnostic plug. When i touched that connector that is when the power was going on and off. Pulled that connector off and cleaned it with an air nozzle and so far it works ok.
I will find out soon enough after driving it for a while.

Once again thanks to this board for all the help.
Phil