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7th Generation (1993-1997) Specific discussion of the 7th generation

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Old 06-12-2011, 07:30 AM   #1 (permalink)
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DIY Rear Engine Mount

Front and rears go bad most all the time. The other three are easy to get to so they dont need any advice. The rear is the most difficult, but I do have a trick I found to make it easier.

Safety is YOUR responsibility for working under a heavy car! DO it right.

There are 3 nuts holding the bottom to the crossmember.
There is a through bolt holding the center of the mount to the engine bracket.
There are either 2 or three bolts holding the engine bracket to the engine. These are more difficult to get at. I was able to remove them with a socket, u-joint and extension for one and a ratcheting box for the other two on my manual trans.

Now heres the make this easier part. When you have the mount loose there is NO WAY to get it out of the place it sits in. But its easy if you have an air hammer. The bolts that hold it to the cross member are splined on the head, just like a wheel stud. A quick brrrppp, and its loose. Now you can remove the mount up and out to the right. You MAY be able to accomplish the same with a regular hammer, but its MUCH more difficult, especially under the car.

Knock the studs loose from the new mount before inserting. Make sure your old nuts arent dirty and rusty and can be put on easily by hand. Push the stud through and put the nut on. Tighten slightly to engage the spline in the mount. Then loosen the nuts so you can replace all the other fasteners.

Tighten engine bracket first, then the through bolt, then the crossmember nuts. Be sure you have tightened the nuts enough to pull the splines home. You may want to re-check their tightness after some drive time to be sure they are still tight.

Heres pics of what I found-

Looks OK huh?



NOPE! Its wasted!!


Hope this helps make your afternoon of car fixing slightly shorter.

-SP
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Old 06-13-2011, 12:49 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Nice one. I'll add this to the DIY Sticky
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Old 06-13-2011, 11:34 AM   #3 (permalink)
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very good idea!

...in fact I want to add, if you don't use this method, you will end up un-bolting the steering rack from the firewall to lift it up high enough to get the mount out. Then reinstall everything
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Old 06-13-2011, 02:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Genius! I am going to have to do this when I get the money! Just saved me some extra work and cursing! Now is the Trans mount just as hard?

Last edited by scott26; 06-13-2011 at 02:35 PM.
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Old 06-13-2011, 02:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
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technically the rear mount is a motor/trans mount. It bolts to the trans. But the driver's side trans mount or upper left mount is a whole lot easier to change
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Old 06-13-2011, 02:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trife96 View Post
technically the rear mount is a motor/trans mount. It bolts to the trans. But the driver's side trans mount or upper left mount is a whole lot easier to change
Good to know, so this one was the hardest but not with this little trick.
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Old 06-13-2011, 05:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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still the hardest to change...even with the trick
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Old 11-13-2011, 02:45 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I'm replacing all the mounts on my 95 Corolla, but the damn rear mount is being a bitch. I tried hammering the studs out, but only got 1 out.

The long bolt on the rear mount was hard to get to, so I unbolted a section (between front and rear cat) of the exhaust and zipped the bolt out with a air impact.


Picked up a air hammer at Home Depot, hopefully the damn bolts and rear mount will come out.

Bolts on the replacement mount (Anchor) are welded on, so I need to cut the welds.
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Old 11-13-2011, 08:23 AM   #9 (permalink)
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As you found out, a hammer wont do the job. unless your car is 4 feet up in the air and you have a lot of room to swing! Air chisel pops them put easily. Well worth the $15 from Harbor Freight.

I took a grinder to the new mount and knocked the stud out. The new mount's steel is not as beefy as the Toyota part so the mount got a little warped but nothing a hammer couldnt fix anyway.

Hopefully you are done by now.

-SP
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Old 11-14-2011, 12:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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funny thing tho, this works out great for removal. Keep in mind you will have to remove the studs in the new one as well to put it back in.
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Old 11-14-2011, 02:05 PM   #11 (permalink)
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is it weird that i didn't have to do any of this stuff to get my mount out and put the new one in?
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:01 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Then you had to remove the crossmember

-SP
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Old 11-14-2011, 11:18 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Got the rear mount out and replaced. I unbolted the steering rack and pushed it up as far as I could to get more clearance.

Thought of something, but to late now. Remove the studs from the mount, weld nuts to the mount and use bolts+washer. No more stupid studs to deal with.
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Old 11-15-2011, 12:38 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy25 View Post
Then you had to remove the crossmember

-SP
almost. i didn't have to remove it entirely though. IMHO, it seems easier to drop the crossmember than using an air hammer to push out the studs.
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Old 03-03-2012, 06:08 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I loosened the crossmember and removed the exhaust mount to get the rear engine mount out of mine.
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