i swapped in a 4afe replacement for my 7afe im getting code 52 knock sensor i know there is no spot behind the block for it, im wondering how can i install it on my block or can i bypass it? please no comments on why i did the swap ect it was 100$ 60k and 7afe are too hard to find seeings how junkers cost about 600 with one in them. i have a pic of the sensor im pretty sure its it there is a plug coming off the injector rail that it plugs in. ive tried running with the plug hanging and it unplugged still get a code. please help. response has been fast and appriciated in my other posts thatks!
does anyone know about their interchangablity? i just yanked the one out of the donor car what else will i have to do? i really dont wanna have to take out the harness too. im open to all ideas here are pics of the 4afe ecm
im not too sure they both had o/d mine has cruise control thats about all i know. both vins say lsi. the donor cars trans is sitting on the ground it looks a little different than mine but they have the same axels and the flywheel and converter were left on and worked on my trans.
long story short if you had a 1.8 auto you have a 4spd auto which NEEDS the 1.8 auto computer to control it. Either you live with the code 52 and horrible performance/mpg or you get the 3spd auto trans swapped in along with the 4afe ecu and harness OR you take the engine back out to a machine shop and have them try to bore/thread the hole for the knock sensor or you swap the 4spd auto for a 5sp manual trans and run the 4afe ecu and wiring harness with the 4afe.
make sense? basically there was a reason why people don't do this.
back of the engine behind cylinder #1 below the head in the block, blind threaded hole. the 7A ecu runs more aggressive and variable timing as well as has better AFR control due to having a knock sensor for extra engine feedback, its pretty important. a 4A-FE running with a knock sensor probably puts out a little extra power actually.
That photo shows behind #2, I thought mine was behind #1. It doesn't matter that much but it looks like on the 7A each cylinder has the boss for the hole of the knock sensor at the top of the cylinder. I would imagine the 4A has the same casting there?
i havent had bad gas milage or power, it seems just like a 1.8 i mean 10 hp isnt too much diff. i drive city not highway so i havent taken it there yet. but i driven for 120 miles so far nothing seems wrong just the light on, ive read a couple threads on bypassing the knock sensor but it was on a civic. but im gonna try it i guess.
oh and has anyone ever seen a 4afe with the 16 valves sticker on the top? and the valve cover behind the oil cap and where the wires run down is stamped 3a *sorry
__________________
94' prizm
Last edited by godsmack29; 06-19-2011 at 09:44 AM.
trust me, its running on some really retarded ignition timing right now. you might not be able to feel it but it's running way worse than it should. I could feel my 1.8 bogging and had no torque when I had a knock sensor wiring problem.
Get the knock sensor installed into the block, trust me. It won't cost much, just be a pain to do. You can DIY once you know the thread dia and pitch, just buy a helicoil kit with the right size bit and tap and only drill the depth the sensor threads in. you'll need one of those things that keeps the drill at 90deg to the work, its more or less a machined metal piece.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.