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7th Generation (1993-1997) Specific discussion of the 7th generation

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Old 06-22-2011, 06:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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car off, dash lights on

First off, my car died with what I took to be a blown head gasket. Temp gauge never showed overheating but I had dumped all the water on the road and it was hot, I dont know HOW hot. Machined the head, new gasket, new head bolts ect. I also did a tranny flush. I think the pressure from the cyl. was going into my cooling system as the radiator cap was blown off when the head gasket went, this may have building for a few weeks. I have everything together and when I connected my battery the oil pressure light, brake light (!), and seatbelt light all came on BEFORE I put the key in the ignition. I jumped TE1 and E1 and pulled codes while my O/D light blinked furiously at me. I turned off the O/D switch at the shifter and the light went out. All I got was a 24 and realized my air intake sensor was disconnected. NO START. I have spark, fuel, and since im not on the moon, air.
Cranking doesnt sound too good, like I have a lack of pressure. If my block is warped wouldnt I have dumped a bunch of oil on the road when it died? Could I have a fuel injector wire switched?
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Old 06-22-2011, 06:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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No water in the oil by the way.
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Old 06-22-2011, 09:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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the lights ill have to look into but as far as the cranking it and it sounding like trash i have a question. are you sure its in time? and you said its getting fuel spark and air.... but does it have compression? it wouldnt hurt to go back and look at the timing.
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Old 06-23-2011, 07:17 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I'll recheck timing today. Perhaps I have the wires wrong. Is the number one cyl. the near the oil fill cap and the #4 at the distributor? There isnt any adj. at the distributor and I know I have it at TDC, top and bottom.
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Old 06-23-2011, 12:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Kevin,

Yes, #1 is near the oil cap. It sounds like you have the distributor that sets timing advance by a sensor in the distributor, so there is no adjustment.

You would need a pretty catastrophic failure to dump a lot of oil on the road, so not seeing any doesn't provide comfort concerning the block.

As for the lights coming on w/o power through the ignition, that lets you know it is getting power from somewhere else. If the motor did get quite hot, you might have a melted/damaged spot on the harness. I'm not familiar with the details in wiring, but the headlights "warning" and open door "warning" have power w/o the key in. I wonder if these other lights are "robbing" power off the line that supplys power to these lights/bells?

No help on the FI wires, it would seem they should be intuitive.

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Old 06-23-2011, 01:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I inspected the wiring in depth when I had everything apart. No melted spots, no damage found. Is there a chance that the temp gauge on the dash was reading way BELOW the actual temp of the motor if it was out of water or does the temp gauge read the oil temp? I pulled over before the temp. was 3/4 to the red zone so I really dont think it overheated. The 30 day old oil did smell slightly burnt but not scorched and at the proper level.
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Old 06-25-2011, 09:39 AM   #7 (permalink)
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It turns out I do not have it timed correctly. I used a buddies compression tester and all cyl. tested at 0. I don't have the book so I need help on which holes to line up with what at the camshaft. I fixed the lights that stayed on the dash when the car was off by connecting my speedometer at the tranny. Go figure.
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