1996 Starter Burned Up Today... Replacement Question

[noram]

My starter seized in the "on" position today. I couldn't turn the car off. Had to disconnect the negative terminal on my battery to turn it off (after smoke was billowing out of the starter).

So I found two used starters for 40$ each.

1. 1996 1.6L 1.0 Khz
2. 1997 1.6L 1.4 Khz

Can I use 2. on my 1996? Is the higher hertz number better?

Thanks,

NORAM

[Bitter]

its not hertz, its watts. KiloWatts. The more powerful start is for the 'winter' package, it will pull a little more power from the battery when starting in very cold weather, but will also be able to turn the engine faster to start easier in very cold weather. Given where you live...get the 1.4 KW starter.

[noram]

Hey thanks, I have a new battery and alternator so it'll be good to go.

Do i need to worry about changing any fuses for the difference in watts?

[Bitter]

the starter power feed wire has no fusing that I'm aware of. It might be prudent to upgrade the ground to the body/engine and the power wire to the starter/alternator. I tend to find that after many years the wiring becomes worn and new heavier gauge stuff makes a noticeable difference.

[PatrickGSR94]

Having just replaced our 96's 1.8L automatic starter last weekend, let me just give you this tip: remove the passenger side wheel and plastic splash guard under the crank pulley and belts. This lets you get to the lower starter bolt much easier with a bunch of ratchet extensions, and also gives easier access getting the starter out of the bay.

Getting those bolts started again when you put the new one on is a PITA, though. At least it was for me with the A/T, subframe, exhaust pipe, and axles all up in the way.

[Bitter]

I went in from the top under the manifold.