manual transaxle lubricant check

[NWMO 95 Prizm Lsi]

Hey all,

I'm trying to check the manual transaxle lube (first time since buying the car in February). The bolt I need to remove was rounded some before I got to it. I believe it is likely a 23mm head. I don't have 23 mm socket here, but can do this at work next week if needed. I have the car on ramps and was able to get a good pull on it with channel locks, but it isn't budging. I sprayed with PB Blaster and was curious about a little heat with a plumbers torch. I wasn't sure with it being aluminum and with the dirty caked oil/grease, it seems like a good way to start a small fire.

If I choose to drain/change, is the redline worth the extra $$ or is the GL-5 75W-90 good enough? I am noticing a very slight "catch" once in a while when I shift. I wouldn't call it a grind, but I do feel a little something.

TIA,

Chris

[ganda1f]

You are not supposed to use GL-5 fluid. Only GL-3 or GL-4. Personally I have Redline MT-90 GL-4 75w-90. I have put around 100k kms on it. Still looks brand new. Car has 293k kms in total. In my opinion the transmission oil needs changing so rarely that the extra money is not going to hurt and may be well worth it in protecting the tranny.

As for the bolt, I would go for PB Blaster and a *proper* socket. Do not use open end wrench. You will just round the bolt completely.

[NWMO 95 Prizm Lsi]

Thanks ganda1f,

I was going by the Haynes manual. Is there a reason the GL-5 isn't acceptable?



Thanks again,

Chris

[Bitter]

24mm socket.

[Kiwi-Corolla]

One of my repair manuals says GL-3 whereas the other one says GL-5. I personally used Valvoline DuraGear 75w-90 GL-5 and haven't experienced any issues whatsoever.

[ganda1f]

My user's manual says GL-3 but it also says that if GL-3 cannot be obtained, then GL-4 or GL-5 can be used instead.
Reading up on the subject on the net I found that GL-4 and GL-5 oils contain an additive that is supposed to protect against extreme pressure (EP) situations. Typically when the gear teeth mesh they might squeeze out the oil causing metal to metal contact and wear. The EP additive is supposed to not get squeezed out by sticking to the metal by some chemical reaction with it.
That reaction is a bit corrosive to metals that are not hardened, as the gears would be in a transmission where those extreme pressures occur. Typically synchronizers may suffer from this. GL-5 has higher concentration of those additives than GL-4.

You are not going to ruin your transmission with GL-5, otherwise I would expect the manual to explicitly forbid the use of GL-5, but if you have the choice, I would go for GL-4. I think that GL-3 is not actually used anymore.

Here is one of the pages I have seen on this subject:
http://www.westfalia.org/community/s...-transmissions

[speedy25]

The GL4/GL5 argument centers around transmissions with brass/bronze synchros. The GL5 tends to destroy them while the GL4 protects them.

Of course there is a gazillion theory and recommendations on which lubricant to actually use. Do some searching and reading to find thew solution that fits your automotive knowledge best.

Plug removal- You wont hurt anything using your propane torch, but but typically doesnt put out enough heat to help removal. Your best friend is the right size 6 point socket. If the corners are as bad as you say you will probably have to hammer it on the bolt. Use 1/2" drive for the most leverage.

-SP

[NWMO 95 Prizm Lsi]

Thanks all,

I will likely spray with PB Blaster a couple more times and wait until Monday after work. I'm sure we have a 6 point 24 mm socket. I may clean the bolt head up some before trying with the new socket.

I assume there is no problem in driving w/o the plastic shields on the bottom of the car. I also noticed at least one bolt missing from the transmission housing, I will try to find the size and fix that.

Thanks again, I will likely use Redline GL-4 and let you know how it goes when I am done.

Chris

[Dirty Dude]

For what it's worth, my original 1996 owner's manual says GL-4 or GL-5. I'm glad, too, because GL-4 is getting tough to find these days. I keep some on hand for my '94 pickup and '68 Mustang, but there is only one parts store here that carries it and I'm not even sure they still do.

On a related note and since this is my first post, I have some noob questions:

1.) Where is the transmission fill plug? I spotted a big bolt with an aluminum washer on the front of the gearbox...

2.) Do I check the oil level like any other manual transmission or differential? Fill it up to the bottom threads?

I've only had the car for three days and don't have a service manual yet. I wouldn't even bother checking the trans oil, but the guy before me neglected ALL of the fluid levels.

[NWMO 95 Prizm Lsi]

Hello DD and welcome to the forum,

I'm a relative noob as well. On my 95 there are two 24mm bolts, the one you describe for check/fill and a lower one for draining. Yes, fill to the bottom threads. Depending on the level I find, I hope to use the Redline product. However, I know I have a leak and if it is quite low, I will probably use the cheaper oil until I make time to pull the half shaft and replace the seal. Best of luck.

Chris

[Dirty Dude]

Thanks. Turns out the transmission was actually full. Wrecked my hand on the battery tray when the plug popped loose, though. Seems like I always have to make a blood sacrifice to my cars or something goes wrong.

BTW, a 15/16" socket will work on a 24mm hex. Depending on the manufacturer, it may fit slightly tighter than a 24mm socket.

[NWMO 95 Prizm Lsi]

Hello again,

I got the check plug out with a six-sided 15/16" socket and used a 24mm on the drain plug. The fluid was about 3/4" below the hole, but I had the car up on ramps to get under it, so that would affect it some, not sure how much. I believe I want to change it anyway, as I don't know if the appropriate oil was used when the jy tranny was installed.

I called around some and the local auto parts stores don't seem to carry the Redline or Amsoil products, would likely be an internet purchase. What are the better sites for such a purchase? I did read some info on a Motorcraft MTF that is GL-4. The local dealer keeps it, but it is about $21/quart.

I just did a quick search and VAC Motorsports has the Redline GL-4 on sale for $10.49/qt with free shipping, probably get it coming tonight or tomorrow.

TIA,

Chris

[Bitter]

Jegs and Summit are good to buy from too.

[NWMO 95 Prizm Lsi]

Hey all,

I got the Redline MT90 from Amazon. The VAC motorsports was not free shipping, which pushed it up past Amazon, which was 13.49 I believe with free shipping.

At any rate, I got the Redline in and will post if I notice any improvement, though I didn't have much to complain about anyhow. Even after getting the plug free a couple of weeks ago, it took vise grips this evening!

I assume Chevy or Toyota for a new plug?? or can one be found somewhere else?? with that wide shoulder, I figured it is likely a dealer part.

Chris

[speedy25]

Sometimes you can find a generic plug at your favorite parts store. Make sure the thread pitch matches, and get a fresh copper sealing washer. (The aluminum ones usually seep.)

-SP