Transmission issues?

[zyuki]

Hi,

So I bought a Toyota Corolla '93 (manual) from a private owner a few weeks back. The engine was been swapped, and I'm pretty sure the transmission has been also (I can get back to you on that one. I would need to call the previous owner). The body has 214,000 miles and the engine has 98,000 miles.

I started to notice I couldn't shift from 1st to 2nd gear a few weeks back. Here are the details:

• It's really hard to shift into 1st from neutral when I'm decelerating. In fact, it's almost impossible. It feels like it's catching on something, and not until I get maybe below 10mph will it let me shift into 1st.
• Shifting into 2nd is a little less rough, but it's doable. Again, It's like the gears aren't catching right and the stick doesn't move from one gear to another smoothly, more like in "steps"
• None of these problems are an issue when the car is stationary.

Today, to work I was good enough to screw up the 3rd gear. I was spacing out and I tried getting into 3rd while letting go of the clutch. I heard the gears grind a little bit and immediately stepped back onto the clutch.

Now the 3rd gear is acting the same as the 2nd.

I've talked to a few people who know about cars but not too much about manuals. This is my 1st ever manual so I might have done a little damage to it while learning, even though I tried to be careful.

All they've said is the synchro needs replacement, and there's no way I'm going to spend ~$1000 (from what I hear, the part itself is relatively cheap but the service is outrageous) on a car that I don't plan to keep for more than 1~2 years. I also don't trust any mechanics in town either, which blows. Hence I'm here asking for someone's help.

I've read some other posts and other forums, and by the sounds of it this could be my answer. Let me know what you guys think:

"Well you can get it in gear with the engine shut down right? So that tells me the clutch isnt disengaging. The cable could still be at fault. If you have the adjuster all the way up and you still cant really disengage the clutch the cable might be stretched. That is a cheap part and easy to replace. It could also be the fork is bent or broken most likely not though. Try moving the clutch fork lever. Does it move excessively? It could have poped off the pivot point or the TB clips could have come off."

If there's anything else it could be, please let me know. Also, even though I want to take care of my car and I really like tinkering, I'm no gear head. This is my 2nd car ever and I've never had the opportunity to take cars apart and work on them. I can definitely get a service manual and I can get a hold of the necessary tools, but I'd really appreciate it if your answers are more than just "oh, it's 'x' part. switch it".

Also, I've already checked and refilled the transmission fluid.

Thanks in advance for the patience and help.

[bior0003]

I had the exact same thing happen with my Gen 7 Rolla xd. I also suspected synchros, but I also had issues getting it into reverse, which I believe is not synchroed (if thats a word?)
Anyways, I replaced the clutch master cylinder (~50 bucks) and replaced as much of the clutch fluid as possible. The problem was instantly fixed. I had similar issues after another 2,000 miles and had to re-bleed the clutch. I've driven it maybe 8,000 miles since then with no issues.

[speedy25]

Since you suddenly found another gear gone I dont think its something simple and silly like a spring popped out of a clutch disk or a bad shift cable.

I cant give you any pointers on trans rebuilding yet since I have only started to disassemble my old one. My troubles started with third popping out, and then it wouldnt go into 4th at all.

I did find instructions on disassembly at the local library.

Start poking around to make sure there isnt something else affecting your trans and then start removing it.

-SP

[Dirty Dude]

It really sounds like spent blocker rings (brass friction rings that allow the synchronizers to do what they do) to me. Replacement means pulling the transmission apart and the next step beyond that is a full rebuild. If a shop is going to charge $1000 for the whole removal, rebuild, and installation(which sounds about average), then you might be better off tracking down a good used trans.

[sequoiasoon]

OK your car does not have a clutch cable so that's definitely wrong.

Yours is hydraulic with a clutch master cylinder mounted on firewall and slave cylinder on front of tranny. Fluid could be dirty/low/needs to be bled. Does pedal feel spongy or smooth? Where does it engage (high/low/middle?)

All of my stick shift cars would not let me shift into first gear until under 10mph max (might even be 5). There really is no need to do that unless your stopped and starting off from intersection/light/sign etc.

What fluid did you replace it with? I had problems with grinding on shifts which turned out to be synchro issues. I had done it many times myself with pennzoil and other synthetics. Other shops did same for me and said tranny had to be rebuilt.

A friend suggested using BG Synchro Shift II as they used it in BMW's with same problems. 3 quarts and 30 miles driving later (to work it in to all the gears) never had another problem with grinding or problems going into gear (but never tried to downshift to 1st either unless stopped).

Many fluids have different viscosities/additives even though they are in the same spec range. Other said Redline/Amsoil/royal purple might have worked also and they are good fluids also. All I know is that was suggested from a very trusted mechanic friend and it fixed my problem. I changed it every 2 years after that anyway just for good measure with same stuff.

Some people also have problems with worn bushings on the shift linkage. one of mine did that and shifter started feeling sloppy which would also make it not engage correctly. make sure they are good and all is lubed well so it does not bind. Mine had 220k all original and still shifted better than my '07 Sonata that replaced it. My Sonata HATES second gear when cold (less than 40 degrees) until driven and all fluid warms up and I've tried the BG which helped some so I might try a different one next.

ps Where in USA?

[Dirty Dude]

Is the BG fluid meant to be used in manual gearboxes that take ATF? A quick Google search brought up discussions comparing it to GM Synchromesh, which I do know is for manuals that use ATF (Tremec transmissions in particular). I'm just wondering about the viscosity difference between 85w-90 gear oil and 10w trans fluid and what affect it would have on function.

On a side note, I think it's curious that Toyota kept using gear oil in their transmissions for so long after many other manufacturers went to lighter lubricants for economy. I had a '91 Civic that used engine oil of all things.

[speedy25]

While we are on the subject- I saw Royal Purple has a lightweight product. It was on the shelf at Summit Racing. Could be good for conserving fuel economy as well as getting some smooth shifting. Bad part is $14 a quart.

-SP