ok, will start off by saying I've looked at every thread on the 154 pages of threads and haven't found anything similar so hoping someone can help me out.
Background - 1994 Corolla, 1.6 (4A-FE motor) with a 5 speed tranny.
My g/fs son let the engine oil get low enough that he seized the motor. I found a donor car with the same model engine but an automatic tranny so did a swap of just the engine. Also replaced the clutch since there was only about 1mm of material left on the disk. Did not pull the tranny, just the engine. Got the motor in, engine starts and runs fine.
More info - there is no pressure on the clutch pedal until it reaches the last 1/2" of travel, the release fork only seems to move about 1/2"-3/4" at the tranny and the car will not go into gear without grinding. The clutch line was not disconnected at any time. The clutch pedal travel rod is adjusted as far out as it will go.
Question - any ideas on where to go from here on diagnosing the problem? I've got the slave cylinder soaking with penetrating fluid so I can hopefully turn that out if its just going to be a matter of bleeding the system but I'm open for other ideas (that hopefully don't involve pulling the motor again)
If the tranny was fine before, it's internally sound...so with the clutch kit install, did you propely put the retainer on the clutch fork and throw out bearing? Did you torque the clutch pressure plate properly? And more inportantly...did you install the clutch disc in the proper way?
I just swapped my engine and tranny in mine...Not sure but I think the 5 spd tranny in the 20V and the 7AFE are still the same. If so the clutch disc is NOT symetrical, so if you flip it the wrong way, you may have a problem.
just wanted to add, the obvious would be to make sure you bled the system properly before you start removing the tranny again lol
I just swapped my engine and tranny in mine...Not sure but I think the 5 spd tranny in the 20V and the 7AFE are still the same. If so the clutch disc is NOT symetrical, so if you flip it the wrong way, you may have a problem.l
All the asymmetrical disks I have dealt with were marked in some way, usually with "flywheel side" on the side that faces the flywheel. Getting them backward will usually mess up the engagement.
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1994 Pickup base model and a couple Mustangs.
If the tranny was fine before, it's internally sound...so with the clutch kit install, did you propely put the retainer on the clutch fork and throw out bearing? Did you torque the clutch pressure plate properly? And more inportantly...did you install the clutch disc in the proper way?
I just swapped my engine and tranny in mine...Not sure but I think the 5 spd tranny in the 20V and the 7AFE are still the same. If so the clutch disc is NOT symetrical, so if you flip it the wrong way, you may have a problem.
just wanted to add, the obvious would be to make sure you bled the system properly before you start removing the tranny again lol
didn't remove the fork or throw out bearing so they should still in the proper location. The pressure plate was torqued to 20ft/pounds in a star pattern. The Clutch disc was installed with the marking of "flywheel this side" towards the flywheel.
I haven't bled the system (as stated before) as I didn't figure that it would need to be bled as none of the lines were opened so didn't think it would be needed but thats where I'm going next before
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Dude
All the asymmetrical disks I have dealt with were marked in some way, usually with "flywheel side" on the side that faces the flywheel. Getting them backward will usually mess up the engagement.
SOmetimes when the slave isnt "captive" it can move past it normal travel and suck air. Bleeding is your next step. I bet the fluid is not clear like its supposed to be so flushing is a good thing. My first guess was a backwards clutch disk, but you caught that one.
SOmetimes when the slave isnt "captive" it can move past it normal travel and suck air. Bleeding is your next step. I bet the fluid is not clear like its supposed to be so flushing is a good thing. My first guess was a backwards clutch disk, but you caught that one.
-SP
now, if the slave cylinder was removed from the tranny, does it sound likely that the rod would go too far out and introduce air into the system? any idea just how much fluid I'd need to completely flush the system out?
I doubt it would take more than a pint (sorry, half liter) bottle of fluid. It seldom takes me a whole quart for an entire brake system and the clutch master/slave/lines are tiny in comparison.
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1994 Pickup base model and a couple Mustangs.
Last edited by Dirty Dude; 08-18-2011 at 06:00 PM.
SOmetimes when the slave isnt "captive" it can move past it normal travel and suck air. Bleeding is your next step. I bet the fluid is not clear like its supposed to be so flushing is a good thing. My first guess was a backwards clutch disk, but you caught that one.
-SP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Dude
I doubt it would take more than a pint (sorry, half liter) bottle of fluid. It seldom takes me a whole quart for an entire brake system and the clutch master/slave/lines are tiny in comparison.
well, I finally got back out to deal with the car and I am so glad I let the bleeder screw soak for a few days with liquid wrench on it, it turned right out for me and I had my girlfriend pump the clutch pedal and the fluid that came out was black and almost looked like it was sludge. After bleeding out alot (and making sure the reservoir stayed full) the clutch pedal is now up where it should be and the clutch is working as it is supposed to. I think I used about 400ml to replace all the bad looking fluid.
thank you all very much for helping me get the boys cat back on the road for him
Now do the brake fluid too. I'm sure its as dark and cruddy as the clutch was unless you have done brake work recently.
-SP
I haven't done any brake work in the 18 months he's had the car but right now, I don't want to introduce any more issues so I'll probably leave the brake lines until winter break at school.
okay, well I'm back with another tranny problem on this car (it's really starting to tick me off) but now, the car will go into gear but it feels like the clutch doesn't engage. The clutch pedal is stiff all the way down and you can shift through all 5 gears (although 5th was popping out when it was drivable). Apparently he was driving on the highway in 5th gear when it suddenly lost speed but felt like it was still in gear. Of course, he had his stereo up loud and can't tell me if there was any strange noises just before it started losing speed.
Other then not feeling like there is no freeplay in the clutch pedal, everything seems fine. Is it possible that either the slave/master cylinders are putting too much pressure in the lines and it is keeping the clutch from engaging or did he do something inside the tranny?
if he screwed the tranny, how much work would be involved in swapping from a 5speed manual to a known good working automatic? I have a complete parts car with a good auto tranny so no parts should need to be purchased unless I break something.
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Swapped Engine, replace clutch disk - can't shift
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