Brake problems after replacing rear shocks.

[Antatious]

Alright, so I replaced my rear shocks and in the process broke my left rear brake line (and sawed off my sway bar links). I also had to replace my right side rear wheel cylinder because I stripped the drain bolt and the brake line. So I have new brake lines on the rear (just the steel part) and a new wheel cylinder on the right rear. I used double flared metric lines but they only had longer than what I needed. So had to make a couple loops before going into the shock bracket. The clearance is fine and everything I am just wondering if I am getting air trapped in the loops.

By the way, I have a 93 corolla. No ABS.

I am bleeding the brakes per manual spec and not getting any pressure back. I have the reservoir lid off. I started at the right rear, pumped the foot pedal for a while, held the brake, break the bleed screw and close bleed screw before releasing the brake pedal. I then did this to front left, then rear left, then front right in that order. I bled until only fluid came out and I still have no brake pressure.

One odd thing- I didn't seem to notice the brake fluid level dropping very much in the reservoir except for when I filled it initially. I don't have to have the car turned on while doing this do I? Am I missing something?

[Bitter]

did the reservoir ever go empty while you were working?

[Antatious]

When I initially did my shock job and replaced the rear lines- I only bled the back left and back right. I got a ton of air at each bleed screw. After I did this, I looked in the reservoir and the level was very low. It wasn't empty, but very low.

I don't want to say I didn't suck air in, because I very well could have. If I have sucked air in through my reservoir, what would my next step be?

After talking to a few people I have two possible routes I may take.

One fellow told me that if I pump the brake any more than 3 pumps (which I did about 9-10 pumps every time I bled each wheel) I will just be pushing the air back and forth in my lines but not actually releasing any of it through the master cylinder or bleed screws.

Another friend told me that I can bleed the master cylinder by pumping the brakes and cracking brake lines that go into the master cylinder.

Does any of this sound like good advice? Thanks for a help.

[speedy25]

By pumping 9-10 times you can churn the brake fluid into a froth and never get the air out. If you have time, just open the bleeder with a hose attached and let gravity do the work. If it doesnt ooze out after a while you still have other problems.

Personally I think a Mity-vac or its generic equivalent is well worth the $30. Its real easy to suck fluid through the system and get all the air out.

-SP

[Antatious]

Well, I went ahead and bought a mighty vac bleed kit. I shoulda just bought one from the start. It was 1000x easier with the mighty vac.

I think my brake fluid was just bad. I bled each wheel till I knew brand new fluid was coming through. The old fluid had millions of microscopic bubbles I could see. My brakes are rock hard now and finally no more trampoline rear end with the new shocks installed. Thanks a bunch for the help.

[speedy25]

It works great for me. I had no doubt you would be happy too!

Glad you got it working well again.

-SP

[Dirty Dude]

I know you got it fixed and have no use for this advice now, but the method I use and have only ever had anyone recommend to me is to use a helper. The helper pushes the pedal when you open the bleeder and only releases the pedal after you close the bleeder and it gets repeated until fresh fluid and no air comes out. This nearly always prevents air from getting pulled back into the system from the wheel end.

Well, unless you're dealing with an early '70s Corvette...then it's a job for a pressure bleeder.