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7th Generation (1993-1997) Specific discussion of the 7th generation

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Old 09-12-2011, 12:15 AM   #1 (permalink)
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battery light comes on while idling and goes away when driving for a bit

I have my mind set on the alternator but looking for a 2nd opinion.
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Old 09-12-2011, 05:21 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Its something in the charging system if it's supposed to come on with low amps coming in the battery.
So get the alternator tested?
If thats not it check terminals on the alternator and battery.
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Old 09-12-2011, 03:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Today i noticed it likes to flicker on and off a couple seconds at a each time at certain times doesnt matter if stopped or driving. I wonder if i got a loose cable somewhere?
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BladeX10 View Post
Today i noticed it likes to flicker on and off a couple seconds at a each time at certain times doesnt matter if stopped or driving. I wonder if i got a loose cable somewhere?
I'll bet your alternator is on its way out.
The light tends to flicker like that randomly when it starts to go in most cars.
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Possibles:
  • Alternator belt slipping (should make noise)
  • Corroded battery cables
  • Alternator failing
  • Alternator wiring
  • Bad ground
  • Battery
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zembonez View Post
Possibles:
  • Alternator belt slipping (should make noise)
  • Corroded battery cables
  • Alternator failing
  • Alternator wiring
  • Bad ground
  • Battery
My guess is still the alternator.

Get it tested at autozone or some other place.

The battery light usually flickers and comes on an off when an alternator is on its way to dying

If it passes, check belts and all the things he posted.
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
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nightwolf is right. The regulator/rectifier has components that are about to fail completely.

You probably WONT get an accurate test at the auto parts store. It will quit sometime in the hear future.

-SP
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by speedy25 View Post
nightwolf is right. The regulator/rectifier has components that are about to fail completely.

You probably WONT get an accurate test at the auto parts store. It will quit sometime in the hear future.

-SP
Good thing I paid attention in class last year xD

My teacher went over warning lights and that's one of the few things I remember about them.
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Ripped out the alternator and took it to O' Rielly and it passed the test 6-7 times. I'm still not ruling it out though because it seems like it only does it when the car is warm. I'll go pick up a junkyard alternator and see if that fixes it.
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Old 09-13-2011, 05:10 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BladeX10 View Post
Ripped out the alternator and took it to O' Rielly and it passed the test 6-7 times. I'm still not ruling it out though because it seems like it only does it when the car is warm. I'll go pick up a junkyard alternator and see if that fixes it.
That's probably the best thing to do.

But if it doesn't pass, clean terminals and connections on the alternator and battery.
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Old 09-13-2011, 05:51 AM   #11 (permalink)
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We just went through this on our '98 Sienna. Before you start your engine, put a voltmeter across the battery and make a mental note of the voltage. Then start the engine and read the voltage across the battery again. Typically you'll get 12 volts with the engine off, and 13.8 with the engine running. If there is no change in voltage with the engine off versus the engine running, you're probably looking at a failing alternator/voltage regulator. You won't necessarily get a battery light on the instrument panel until the battery voltage gets low, which may be why it's flickering instead of coming on and staying on.

If the voltmeter tests give different results, post up again and let us know what your readings were. How old is your battery? It's possible it's starting to fail and maybe has a dead cell, but then the vehicle wouldn't be as likely to start right up if that were the case. I once had a battery fail so completely that the vehicle wouldn't keep running after getting a jump start.

Your voltmeter is your best tool at this point.
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:50 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TierOneSupplier View Post
We just went through this on our '98 Sienna. Before you start your engine, put a voltmeter across the battery and make a mental note of the voltage. Then start the engine and read the voltage across the battery again. Typically you'll get 12 volts with the engine off, and 13.8 with the engine running. If there is no change in voltage with the engine off versus the engine running, you're probably looking at a failing alternator/voltage regulator. You won't necessarily get a battery light on the instrument panel until the battery voltage gets low, which may be why it's flickering instead of coming on and staying on.

If the voltmeter tests give different results, post up again and let us know what your readings were. How old is your battery? It's possible it's starting to fail and maybe has a dead cell, but then the vehicle wouldn't be as likely to start right up if that were the case. I once had a battery fail so completely that the vehicle wouldn't keep running after getting a jump start.

Your voltmeter is your best tool at this point.
Just throwing this out there 12 volts is a dead battery.
12.6 is a full battery.

And 14 or so is full with the battery on give or take a bit.
13.8 sounds acceptable.
And flickering battery lights are almost always the charging system not the battery.
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Old 09-14-2011, 02:13 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I had a problem when I first bought my 97 corolla a year and a half ago. I had the light flickering problem but it turned out that the alternator belt needed to be tightened slightly. I think the mechanic said there was a bolt or something that had fallen out that usually keeps the belt at the right tension.
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:40 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNightWolf View Post
Just throwing this out there 12 volts is a dead battery.
12.6 is a full battery.

And 14 or so is full with the battery on give or take a bit.
13.8 sounds acceptable.
And flickering battery lights are almost always the charging system not the battery.
OK, you got me. A battery has six cells and when fully charged they're 2.1 volts each, totalling 12.6 volts. 12.0 volts will still start your car, but the point was that he can test the output of his charging system with a voltmeter without having to pull the alternator out of his car. It's too bad that no one suggested that before he pulled it out and took it to O'Reilly. Now he's going to a junkyard to try another alternator even though the original one had tested out fine. He's throwing parts and money at the car without diagnosing it first which can result in a lot of money being spent without the problem getting fixed....unless he's just lucky.
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:50 PM   #15 (permalink)
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12 Volts is NOT a dead battery....
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