|
Yep. Very easy project.....and useful, too. The pump and bracket weigh roughly 20 lbs or more - so getting rid of them is moving in the right direction, IMO. The power rack has a higher gear ratio than the manual rack, so, yes, effort will be a bit greater, but not bad on a light car such as this. Feel IS better w/o the power....considerably better, if you asked me.
As for the removal procedure.....couldn't be simpler:
1) Cut the PS belt and remove.
2) Unbolt the lines from the PS pump. Use a pan underneath to catch as much of the fluid as possible. Leave the lines hanging, for now.
3) Remove the zillion bolts holding the PS bracket to the engine block (really, there are about 8 - 10 of them)....and remove the pump and bracket together. NO need to unbolt the pump from the bracket - you can save yourself some trouble and remove them both together. Marvel at how HUGE and HEAVY this assembly is - for such a light car ! Almost as big as the bloody engine !
3A) Fling this heavy, stupid contraption into the nearest dumpster, or rubbish bin. Good riddance !!!
4) Put the (front of the) car on jacks or jack stands.
5) Again, using a pan beneath to catch the fluid......turn the wheels all the way, lock to lock, in each direction, several times.....to push out as much of the fluid as will come out. It helps to have the ENDS of the PS lines as low as possible during this operation. Don't fret about this - you will NOT get all of the fluid out...and you will get air IN - but that is what you want.
Having mostly air in the lines will make the steering effort lighter than leaving the fluid in the lines. The remaining fluid in the rack/ lines will just serve as lube for the rack -so it's OK.
6) Loop the lines together. For this, you will need to cut the lines back, so this can be done. I cut the head off of the fitting (I can't remember if it was the feed or return tube....and it doesn't matter).....leaving a portion of the small metal tube behind the fitting intact. Then, push the blank end of the other rubber line over the metal tube, thus creating a loop. Use a good hose clamp to secure the connection.
7) Secure the PS hose loop to the firewall with zip ties, or whatever means you like.
A few additional points:
Some will claim that you need to install some sort of breather apparatus to the looped lines - but this is nonsense. With mostly air in the lines and rack, all you do when operating the rack is push the small amount of fluid (and lots of air) back and forth, through the lines. Then, when the rack is centered (wheels straight on) the fluid will settle back to the lowest point. This is NOT a problem. It works just FINE.
You COULD go to the trouble of using a vacuum pump, or siphon pump, to suck out the fluid from the rack/ lines.....but this is unnecessary.
You also COULD re-route the metal transfer lines from the rotary valve on the rack (located where the steering shaft enters the rack) to the rack chambers themselves, in such a way that you form short loops.....and eliminate the rubber PS hoses completely. But, this would be a good bit of work (cutting, bending, flaring new lines from brake line stock).....and it is very tight in the rack area - so I don't recommend it. Unless you are a glutton for punishment, or perfectionist, that is.
You COULD remove the rack from the car, evacuate all of the fluid and CAP the locations for the lines. Too much work, IMO (see above).
You MUST loop the lines - do NOT just leave them hanging or open. That would allow moisture and dirt into your rack......with subsequent bad effect, as you can imagine.
That's it.
Last edited by bcp477; 10-07-2011 at 09:54 PM.
|
Power steering
Linear Mode
