Changing my exhaust and engine - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Mawtin · 10-20-2011, 08:26 AM

I want to change the exhaust on my '97 Corolla LE.
Wondering if the Toyota Matrix/Pontiac Vibe exhaust fits? I don't want a fart cannon, just something to look nice and cheap

I am also planning on doing a 20 valve swap, but my car is an automatic, I've read builds on something called the "7AGE" taking a 4AG head, 20V pistons and swapping it.

Scratch that head swap

TheNightWolf · 10-20-2011, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mawtin

I want to change the exhaust on my '97 Corolla LE.
Wondering if the Toyota Matrix/Pontiac Vibe exhaust fits? I don't want a fart cannon, just something to look nice and cheap

I am also planning on doing a 20 valve swap, but my car is an automatic, I've read builds on something called the "7AGE" taking a 4AG head, 20V pistons and swapping it.

I don't plan on racing, so I don't need the high revs

I want to know if I swapped the head, will the harness be the same?

1. Why not get an OEM exhaust if you don't want a fart can?

2. Why swap the head and rebuild the engine if you aren't gonna race it?

Piloter · 10-20-2011, 06:49 PM

You're OBD-2. You'll have distributor nightmares for a 16V 7AGE, plumbing nightmares in general for a 20V 7AGE, and ECU nightmares AND plumbing nightmares for a 20V swap. It's not cheap or easy to do right if you can't do it mostly yourself. Trust me on this. *points to my 7AGE build thread over in the lounge*

TheNightWolf · 10-20-2011, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Piloter

You're OBD-2. You'll have distributor nightmares for a 16V 7AGE, plumbing nightmares in general for a 20V 7AGE, and ECU nightmares AND plumbing nightmares for a 20V swap. It's not cheap or easy to do right if you can't do it mostly yourself. Trust me on this. *points to my 7AGE build thread over in the lounge*

I forgot that it was OBDII, I'm used to my oldy Rolla xD
lol

cipher93 · 10-20-2011, 07:36 PM

I had a glass pack put on my Corolla a couple weeks ago. Sounds a lot more like a 6 cylinder, similar to a neighbor's older Dakota Sport V6 truck. I also had them do 2" pipe from the resonator into the glass pack. It's not farty or bee like, with none of those annoying burping/gurgling sounds as it slows down, and with a nice, throaty "Vroom."

I'd probably put a longer resonator in if I was keeping the car and have 2" pipe fitted from the cat back to the new resonator if I planned on keeping it, as it does have a bit of an odd overtone/resonance under hard acceleration when the sound has something to bounce off of. I paid $125 in parts in labor for everything, so it's the best bang for your buck. The glass pack itself was $25, plus 6' of pipe and 3 hangers. The noise level isn't too bad either, certainly not as obnoxious loud as a lot of trucks or even other tuners.

If you want an actual muffler, I was advised against Flowmasters due to the interior resonance being a lot, and the sound quality for their Delta 60 not being the best.

EDIT: Without measuring, I believe my Glasspack is a 18".

Mawtin · 10-20-2011, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheNightWolf

1. Why not get an OEM exhaust if you don't want a fart can?

2. Why swap the head and rebuild the engine if you aren't gonna race it?

1. Almost never purchase OEM, only aftermarket. The size of the Matrix/Vibe exhaust looks really nice IMO

2. I want a more powerful kick in the Corolla when needed. And blocking speeders by driving the same speed as someone on the other lane

cipher93 · 10-20-2011, 10:08 PM

Fwiw, someone on here I believe mentioned they liked using an IS300 muffler with these cars and upgraded piping. You'll also probably get a small boost if you upgrade the header at the same time. Only bother with a high flow catalytic converter if it's throwing a code anyway, and don't waste time with cheap ones that won't last. Also consider using inter cooler pipe to fabricate your own cold air intake, or even using a K&N drop in air filter. If you do all these it will give you sufficient passing and hill climbing power unless you live in an area high above sea level. I'd also suggest a bottle of Heet or similar gas line deicer/water remover every month in your gas if you have to fill up with Ethanol blended fuels to keep the system clean.

Also, don't block speeders. If they want to be stupid let them speed, don't make them angry and be a nuisance to the other person by driving alongside them.

Piloter · 10-21-2011, 12:03 AM

Yeah, mine was the IS300 muffler. The stock ones are getting harder to find though. My other recommendation would be a dual-loop Honda-style can. A header gives a boost above 3,500 RPM if unwrapped, about 3K RPM if wrapped, any piping bigger than 2.25" or so will absolutely kill power at lower RPMs (factory is 1.5 I think), there's a couple DIYs for CAIs on the board...Kiwi posted instructions, I posted a picture writeup of how it turns out. Intake/exhaust/header will maybe net you 5-10 horsepower if you're really damn lucky but unstrangle the engine considerably on the highway. I put a shift kit in my automatic, but that's not for the fainthearted.

Oh, and drive right, pass left, the more you block somebody who's already breaking the law, the more you're exposing yourself to road rage and christ knows what else. If they're driving that dangerously (driving fast is not driving dangerously, as long as they're using their turn signals, leaving space cushions, not freaking out the normals, etc) then call the cops. Don't try to be a vigilante, for god's sake.

TheNightWolf · 10-21-2011, 05:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mawtin

1. Almost never purchase OEM, only aftermarket. The size of the Matrix/Vibe exhaust looks really nice IMO

2. I want a more powerful kick in the Corolla when needed. And blocking speeders by driving the same speed as someone on the other lane

1. Under standable, but not sure on the fitment, do what I did to pass inspection get a custom cat back and throw the stock muffler onto it, no sound and still a boost in power.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cipher93

Fwiw, someone on here I believe mentioned they liked using an IS300 muffler with these cars and upgraded piping. You'll also probably get a small boost if you upgrade the header at the same time. Only bother with a high flow catalytic converter if it's throwing a code anyway, and don't waste time with cheap ones that won't last. Also consider using inter cooler pipe to fabricate your own cold air intake, or even using a K&N drop in air filter. If you do all these it will give you sufficient passing and hill climbing power unless you live in an area high above sea level. I'd also suggest a bottle of Heet or similar gas line deicer/water remover every month in your gas if you have to fill up with Ethanol blended fuels to keep the system clean.

Also, don't block speeders. If they want to be stupid let them speed, don't make them angry and be a nuisance to the other person by driving alongside them.

^Listen to him

Quote:

Originally Posted by Piloter

Yeah, mine was the IS300 muffler. The stock ones are getting harder to find though. My other recommendation would be a dual-loop Honda-style can. A header gives a boost above 3,500 RPM if unwrapped, about 3K RPM if wrapped, any piping bigger than 2.25" or so will absolutely kill power at lower RPMs (factory is 1.5 I think), there's a couple DIYs for CAIs on the board...Kiwi posted instructions, I posted a picture writeup of how it turns out. Intake/exhaust/header will maybe net you 5-10 horsepower if you're really damn lucky but unstrangle the engine considerably on the highway. I put a shift kit in my automatic, but that's not for the fainthearted.

Oh, and drive right, pass left, the more you block somebody who's already breaking the law, the more you're exposing yourself to road rage and christ knows what else. If they're driving that dangerously (driving fast is not driving dangerously, as long as they're using their turn signals, leaving space cushions, not freaking out the normals, etc) then call the cops. Don't try to be a vigilante, for god's sake.

Mine came with 2.something piping and looked factory, I upgraded to 2.5 and didn't lose much low end, I can still take off like a bat out of hell.

***PhatRoyale*** · 10-21-2011, 09:30 AM

It will be much easier in the long run just getting the 4A-GE 20V swap with a manual transmission.

The long gearing of the automatic will neuter any power gains you get from the swap in the first place.

TheNightWolf · 10-21-2011, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PhatRoyale

It will be much easier in the long run just getting the 4A-GE 20V swap with a manual transmission.

The long gearing of the automatic will neuter any power gains you get from the swap in the first place.

For the 94 is the head a straight swap in?
Or is there some wiring to be done.

cipher93 · 10-22-2011, 04:05 PM

Generally speaking, it is MUCH easier to get power from an pre OBDII car. Fewer sensors to wire and modify and they won't be tripped by more radical changes. I can't say if it is a straight swap but it should be easier at the very least.

EDIT: To clarify, I mean modify wires and sensors in terms of swaps.

TheNightWolf · 10-22-2011, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cipher93

Generally speaking, it is MUCH easier to get power from an pre OBDII car. Fewer sensors to wire and modify and they won't be tripped by more radical changes. I can't say if it is a straight swap but it should be easier at the very least.

Yeah, my friend has an OBD2 Teggy and he can get power, but throws codes like crazy.