I bought it from my parents 3 years ago and have only put 4000 miles on it. Its my extra car. I have changed the oil a few times and just put 5W30 in it......thats what my 95 Corrolla used and my 98 camry 4cly uses. I just noticed today that the darn cap says 10W30. I have the original manual and it says 10W30 prefrered from Zero to hot temperatures. How did I miss that on the cap? I live by Chicago with a few days a year maybe -5 to Zero at the coldest. 127,000 miles. Stays outside, rarely used. Infrequent starts. Runs-starts well.
Should I switch to 10W30 or does it really matter? Thank you.
Really makes no difference unless you have leaks in this case. Obviously, if you are in a really hot (100 degree +) conditions you'll want a heavier oil (10W).
5w30 is fine in the northern half the country. I used to use 10w30 in spring/summer oil changes and 5w30 in fall/winter oil changes. All my other vehicles now use 5w30, so I've been using only 5w30 for year round the last 5 years. No problems.
I bought it from my parents 3 years ago and have only put 4000 miles on it. Its my extra car. I have changed the oil a few times and just put 5W30 in it......thats what my 95 Corrolla used and my 98 camry 4cly uses. I just noticed today that the darn cap says 10W30. I have the original manual and it says 10W30 prefrered from Zero to hot temperatures. How did I miss that on the cap? I live by Chicago with a few days a year maybe -5 to Zero at the coldest. 127,000 miles. Stays outside, rarely used. Infrequent starts. Runs-starts well.
Should I switch to 10W30 or does it really matter? Thank you.
5w-30 is fine. I am more curious as to why you have changed the oil several times in 4000mi.
__________________
1994 Pickup base model and a couple Mustangs.
5w-30 is fine. I am more curious as to why you have changed the oil several times in 4000mi.
The car is not driven much. I changed the oil when I recieved the car, 1 1/2 years later after 2000 miles and another 1 1/2 years later at another 2000 mles. Miles wise too early to change oil, but 1 1/2 years between oil changes. Maybe the time does not matter with only 2000 miles. Maybe overkill, but I just use Super Tech oil and filter at a total of $13.50 an oil-filter change with a quart left over so not a big cost factor. Its my spare car for when my 98 Camry is being worked or not running which is more and more as time goes on. I also loan the car out to friends and family when their cars are in the shop to help out and to keep it running. I am sure they beat the piss out of it too.
You are correct to change the oil due to the passage of time, even though the mileage is not much. Water vapor still DOES condense in the crankcase, through heating and cooling cycles of day and night, even if the engine is not run very often. In fact, a car like yours is MORE prone to corrosion inside the engine, than one driven more often, for this very reason. I'd check the cooling system as well, if I were you......and make sure that it contains good coolant AND anti-rust additive.
As for the oil.....no, you will not harm the engine with 5w30, as opposed to 10w30. However, IF the engine has loosened up enough (most do with 127,000 miles), to burn any oil....then a switch to a thicker viscosity is in order. If I were you, I would use only 10w30 in future....and add an additive against oil burning.... IF the engine uses ANY oil. It is time that it probably will, but only you can determine that.
When an engine gets beyond 150,000, with normal or severe use, then even thicker oil is indicated. This is something the owners manuals never tell you. The thinner oils are much more subject to burning and coking than thicker viscosity oils. I run a "hybrid" mixture of 20w50, cut with approx. 3/4 qt of an additive that has a 10w30 base, in my 192,000 mile 97 4AFE, 5-spd Corolla. This reduces oil consumption to nearly zero. And yes, I still get 28-29 mpg in city driving (so no need anyone for any wise cracks about that).
The 5w-30 and 10w-30 and even the 0w-30 Bitter mentioned are all the same viscosity at operating temperature. One is not thicker or thinner then the other when they warm up. The xW designates cold viscosity (startup).
The concern use to be that the wider the spread, the more prone oils would be to shear since they contain more viscosity index improvers (allowing for 0w-30, 5w-30, etc). However base oil refining has come a long way and this isn't really an issue with normal duty passenger vehicles especially with current SN API classification.
Thinner oils are NOT more subject to coking. Go take a look a flashpoints of various grades of oils to have a look for yourself. Flashpoints are completely related to the quality of the base oil used. Yes, there are many 10w-30's with higher flashpoints than 20w-50's and vice versa. Are thinner oils more subject to burning? In an engine with worn oil rings or valve stem seals, obviously yes.
Yes there are exceptions, for example some Audi designs, but these 1.6 and 1.8's definitely don't fall anywhere near that category.
I have to say I disagree with the 150,000 miles statement. Thicker oil is indicated? By who? That is a blanketed statement. It's a case by case basis. How do you know your actually blowing oil by the rings or stem seals instead of leaking it through the rear main seal or somewhere else? Yes oil and engine tech have advanced real well... but seal tech not so much.
DLW from experience a 5w-30 works well for Chicago weather.
"are all the same viscosity at operating temperature".
Yes, exactly.....but NOT at startup. As you say, the "xW" designates the cold viscosity. As most engine wear occurs at startup, a loose (worn) engine benefits from thicker oil. So, 10w30 IS a thicker viscocity than 5w30.....at least, where it most counts.
"The concern use to be that the wider the spread, the more prone oils would be to shear since they contain more viscosity index improvers (allowing for 0w-30, 5w-30, etc). However base oil refining has come a long way and this isn't really an issue with normal duty passenger vehicles especially with current SN API classification."
That was not my concern......viscosity used in a worn engine was. As it is rather time consuming and impractical to get in there to measure the clearances to determine if the engine is "loose" (worn), whether the engine consumes oil is the normal mode used for this determination.....hence the reason I mentioned it.
"Thinner oils are NOT more subject to coking. Go take a look a flashpoints of various grades of oils to have a look for yourself. Flashpoints are completely related to the quality of the base oil used. Yes, there are many 10w-30's with higher flashpoints than 20w-50's and vice versa. Are thinner oils more subject to burning? In an engine with worn oil rings or valve stem seals, obviously yes.'
Again, in a WORN engine...... "obviously yes"......hence my mentioning whether the engine is consuming oil.
"Yes there are exceptions, for example some Audi designs, but these 1.6 and 1.8's definitely don't fall anywhere near that category."
Non-sequitor, in this discussion. We aren't discussing "some Audi designs". The OP was looking for general advice, for his particular situation....probably not an esoteric argument about "some designs".
"I have to say I disagree with the 150,000 miles statement. Thicker oil is indicated? By who? That is a blanketed statement. It's a case by case basis. How do you know your actually blowing oil by the rings or stem seals instead of leaking it through the rear main seal or somewhere else? Yes oil and engine tech have advanced real well... but seal tech not so much."
Disagree with whatever you like. The point of the statement, AGAIN, revolved around the concept of a WORN engine. If the engine in question is NOT consuming oil (I didn't mention LEAKING OIL, because that does NOT fall into the category of CONSUMING oil......apples and oranges).....then, by all means, a "thicker" oil viscosity is not indicated. The "150,000 mile" mention was only a generality - NOT intended to be taken as an absolute. Are you an attorney, by any chance ? Hair-splitting seems to be a specialty of yours.
"DLW from experience a 5w-30 works well for Chicago weather."
Good for you. I certainly agree.....IF the engine is NOT LOOSE. Overall, it seems that you really just want to be RIGHT. Unfortunately, I've run into exactly this sort of thing, many times before. That is why I made the comment, in my post, that no "wise cracks" were needed, regarding my fuel mileage, based on my own practice. It seems that I should have qualified the heck out of every word I wrote, so as to ward off the "I've just gotta be right" hair- splitter crowd. Oh well, my mistake.
As for what the OP does, vis-a-vis his own engine, that is certainly up to him. I only intended to offer a bit of friendly advice, based on long experience myself. In any case, I have said enough on this matter.
I was by no means trying to come off as offensive, nor was I trying to be an asshole. Your wording clearly had me confused in some areas thus I made the points that I did. The name calling isn't really called for.
I was simply stating information about oil to the best of my understanding in hopes that the info would help others reading this post, that's what these forums are all about right?
But on startup, has it been shown that most oil burning takes place on cold? Yes tolerances are different but how can one determine with certainty whether it burned off mostly during the cold or during operating temp? I personally haven't noticed differences between 0w, 5w and 10w 30weights.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Linear Mode
