Hello I am new to the forum, but not new to Toyota which brings me here. I have a 95 corolla that won't start. After spending the last two days reading through the treads on the 7th generation, I am at a loss. I did find a thread that mentioned with a picture, the 95’s CPS was located adjacent to the crankshaft near the timing belt cover. On my engine there is no such sensor or any wiring anywhere near that location.
I don’t put much faith in Haynes, as they annotate it on the top of the engine near the cylinder head; also I saw a thread that mentioned it was under neath the alternator, on my engine that is the oil pressure sensor.
So what I am missing? I have 1.6L L4 FI 4AFE engine. I have the old style diagnostic access port in the engine compartment and for some reason I either don't have a check engine light or it doesn't work for me to trouble shoot this issue.
The car stopped working after I changed the heater motor out. There is no spark, engine turns. I have replaced the distributer, rotor, coil, plugs and wires. The timing belt is in place and operational. I appreciate any assistance in this matter. This is the first for me with old blue (338,000) and I would like to lick this without resorting to taking it to a garage.
If the car was working before you removed the heater motor I would think you disconnected a wire possibly by accident. Go back to the heater motor and looki closely for a disconected wire Or could theheater motor you installed burn a fuse that would cause the car to not start?
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Dennis
2009 Highlander Hybrid, 2007 Camry, 1995 Corolla
Previous owned
1985 Camry, 1989 Land Cruiser, 1989 Corolla All-Trac wagon
But I'd be more suspicious about the blower motor repair damaging something else as fj62 suspects. Other things to check are the main fuses, and if the rotor is turning.
Thanks for the guide. How accurate are these tests? I did conduct a primary and secondary coil check last week and no resistance showed up in the secondary coil prompting me to get a new one. I did a cursory check of the new coil with the same results.
I also did a cursory check of the high tension cords and didn't get anything either. All of these components are new out of the box.
So that leads me to think either the new components are defective or I am missing something? I am using a FLUKE digital multimeter, a rather accurate meter that I have never had issues with.
As for my engine, I did confirm with Toyota that this engine does not have a CKP. Why parts stores sell them for that engine is beyond me.
Woz2000
I have checked all the fuses 4X. As for the heater motor the day it stopped all I did was pull the old one out. I was going to get a replacement when it decided to be temperamental. It is possible that pulling the motor out did cause some issues, but I discount that for a couple of reasons. A) this is the second heater motor that I have put in. All that connects this is a tabbed connector. B) the only thing in that area of the dash is the airbag above the glove box. There is a fuse box on that side of the car with a relay and a fuse. C) everything else works on/in the car that worked prior to this.
My conclusion is that it is either an issue with the distributor or the computer. I did have another vehicle that I recently unloaded on "Crazy Rays" due to it blowing two computer modules. Needless to say that will be that last time I but anything from those folks.
As an aside to the rest of the forum, it would really be an indispensable resource if a claim is made about a sensor or other component, post pictures or other reference points to the specific engine, where that component is. There was a thread that did post a picture, but it was the 1.8 engine. I spent a few hours searching for that sensor when it didn't exist. I do have some knowledge of these things as I have blown through a few on my F350.
How accurate are these tests? I did conduct a primary and secondary coil check last week and no resistance showed up in the secondary coil prompting me to get a new one. I did a cursory check of the new coil with the same results.
I also did a cursory check of the high tension cords and didn't get anything either. All of these components are new out of the box.
The tests should be accurate. Its from a factory (Toyota) service manual.
Its weird that your not getting a resistance reading. Are you positive that your doing the tests correctly?
Quote:
I just looked closer at those specs. My meter won't register KΩ so naturally I can't check the resistance on the secondary coil.
Is it set to the correct range, if the meter doesn't have auto range?
I also have a Fluke DMM (87), it has no problem measuring K ohms.
I have an older Fluke 7-300 automatic selection. The Ohm range is from 0-400. No worries I was able to get a satisfactory reading using another meter and replaced the entire distributer. That was the issue. After 338,000 miles it decided it was done!
As for the repair guide, I found another one and the numbers weren't quite the same that's why I asked about that.
Replacing the heater motor was just coincidental. I am not complaining, it could have decide to give up the ghost in another state rather than in my garage. I do have to acknowledge that it did throw me off for a while. I thought I might have had an issue with the airbag over the glove box. The sensor and control unit is secured to a bracket on top of the glove box assembly that has to be carefully removed before taking the box out for access.
I just checked out the specs on the Fluke 87. Nice! A bit pricey for my taste. I haven't had a need for the kind of ranges it offers, but I will seriously think about it. Thanks again
Bob
Last edited by rob1978; 11-21-2011 at 09:42 AM.
Reason: grammer
when you find your cps you should have around 2 ohm if not its bad, also check and see if your car has a igniter this deals with spark also most are located driver front inside fender its a small square with wires going to it
No worries I was able to get a satisfactory reading using another meter and replaced the entire distributer. That was the issue. After 338,000 miles it decided it was done!
Good to hear that you figured out the problem (bad distributor).
Quote:
I just checked out the specs on the Fluke 87. Nice! A bit pricey for my taste. I haven't had a need for the kind of ranges it offers, but I will seriously think about it.
I have the original Fluke 87. Current one is the 87 V.
If you don't need anything fancy, maybe look at the 100 series (113, 114, 115, 116, 117).
Quote:
Originally Posted by 95yota
when you find your cps you should have around 2 ohm if not its bad, also check and see if your car has a igniter this deals with spark also most are located driver front inside fender its a small square with wires going to it
Guess you didn't bother reading the thread before replying.
1.6L 4A-FE in a 95 Corolla does NOT have a crank position sensor.
The ignitor is inside the distributor. Its not external like on some other Toyotas.
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95 corolla Crankcase position sensor
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