Ok guys, I have a GREAT DIY for all TN members here. I finally got a hold of this tool I desperately wanted, so without further delay, lets get to work:
This is the professional way to perform a fuel induction service on your car. Every Toyota dealer in my area uses these exact same tools and even many tires plus chains too. If u don’t have these tools u will NOT be able to do this procedure, at least not the way outlined here. And yes the induction tool is expensive but IMO its worth it, as this works for ANY car. I paid $55 with shipping, not bad really. I bought it here:
www.edwardsracingengines.com The dealer would not sell me the tool but was happy to sell me the chemical kit I needed for $27. The parts guy gave me an odd look when I asked him for it, but Greasewrench cares not about looks, but rather about saving $$$$!!!!! U will have the engine running at a high rpm during the entire time so u need to make sure your cooling system works good like your fans, etc. otherwise the engine WILL overheat. I highly suggest a respirator mask too. The fumes that get blasted out your exhaust are toxic and quite heavy so get a good fan blowing too. Goggles and gloves are not a bad idea here too.
1. Pour the fuel system cleaner bottle into your gas tank then go and fill up your car with gas, this will let it mix well in the tank. Or just pour it in and do the rest of the steps outlined, either way works. I like to pour then fill up.
2.disconnect your air intake boot from the throttle body (TB) by using a screwdriver to loosen the clamps. If the boot is stuck try and wiggle it back and forth a bit, as the heat and rubber form a tight seal at times. Expose the TB, get a lint free rag and spray the the TB cleaner all over the rag so its wet. If u just start spraying cleaner all over the plate and behind it the cleaner will pool at the back of the intake plenum and TB and u will likely have a hard time starting the car afterward, so its best if u soak the rag then wipe all areas with the rag. Spray a few quick bursts in the diamond hole area at the front of the TB too. The TB gets dirty due to the PCV valve directing blowby and oily vapors towards the back intake manifold. Also if anything gets past your air filter, it can build up varnish on the TB plate. An oily, greasy residue can form all over the TB and cause the throttle plate to stick in cases of heavy buildup. This should be cleaned at least twice a year. Wait for it to dry then reconnect everything.
3. Ok here comes the important step. 1st, u need to find a good vacuum hose. The easiest one is the fat one on the left side of the intake plenum right above the PS pump, unhook 1 side and firmly wedge the taper cone plug of the tool into the hose end. If u can’t uhook it then use the vacuum line that connects to the brake power booster as shown in the pic. If u use this line then the procedure will take longer since its so far away from the manifold. unhook the hose from the BOOSTER end only, not the end with the hex nut fitting. otherwise you'll pour the cleaner right into the power booster assembly. The ever-wear induction tool, made by QMI, is basically a metered IV drip bottle. Engine vacuum sucks the cleaner into the manifold, cleaning all carbon and baked-on oily deposits in the runners, intake and exhaust ports, valves and pistons, including the combustion chamber. it’s a very thorough cleaning done with this tool. Normally any large amount of liquid would hydro lock the engine, but here’s the trick. The tool has an air valve running inline on the tubing. This mixes outside air WITH the fluid, venting out thru the system and foaming up the cleaner into atomized aerosol droplets that the engine can tolerate well and burn. DO NOT cover up this hole!!!!
4. Next up, u need a throttle pedal depressor. This will hold down the gas pedal to hold engine rpm at about 1500-2000 during the service. If u don’t have a tachometer on your dash then just use your best judgement here. U NEED THIS TOOL, OTHERWISE the steady flow of cleaner will back up and the engine will choke on it and stall. Total service time is around 15-20min for all the cleaner to empty from the bottle.
5. Start the car and set the pedal depressor securely (my version hooks to the steering wheel). Confirm engine is running at steady fast rpm, then make sure the flow valve on the induction tool is CLOSED!!!! closed means the valve is turn at a 90 degree angle.
Now pour in the top engine cleaner bottle and slowly open the valve. Confirm engine is pulling in cleaner, then continue to open the valve till its fully open. If engine starts to shake, close the valve, increase rpms on the depressor tool, and try again. Remember if the engine is running fast, it will suck in the cleaner no problem and you’ll see smoke spewing from the tailpipe. The key is the HIGH RPMS. 1500-2000 is what the bottle instructions recommend. Your cooling fans will come on but that’s normal. Let it run and CLOSELY MONITOR THE TEMP GAUGE ON THE CAR DASH.
6. Once the cleaner is gone, close the valve quickly or the engine vacuum will distort the plastic bottle. Turn OFF the engine, unhook the bottle, reconnect the hose to the manifold and start the car. Rev the engine a few times to clear any residual cleaner and take for test drive. I hope u wore a respirator mask or had a fan blowing during this cuz the fumes that spray out the exhaust are toxic to your lungs. Any car can benefit from this service, new or old. Its $89 at the dealer but once they add tax and shop supplies it pushes the bill to $100. some dealers may charge u even more. But now u know how to do it. BTW the pedal depressor tool u can get on amazon. Hope this helps, good luck!!!!
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