The longer the power cable, the higher the resistance. This means the voltage drop will be greater and your electronics will see a lower voltage. It won't be much and you can probably get away with it. You can use a thicker gauge cable to overcome this, but its not really necessary.
The bigger factor is the need to fuse the cable AT the battery, so you will need to relocate the main fuse also. Make sure it is well positioned and protected so it doesn't short out against the chassis.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNightWolf
Is it simple as I am thinking, just run ground to the trunk floor, and run a power wire to the alternator and wherever else it needs to go.
The longer the power cable, the higher the resistance. This means the voltage drop will be greater and your electronics will see a lower voltage. It won't be much and you can probably get away with it. You can use a thicker gauge cable to overcome this, but its not really necessary.
The bigger factor is the need to fuse the cable AT the battery, so you will need to relocate the main fuse also. Make sure it is well positioned and protected so it doesn't short out against the chassis.
More CCA?
I'm looking around right now to see exactly what I would have to do and it looks pretty simple so far.
Just a fusible link would work as the main fuse right?
Like the one up by the battery?
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-1994 Toyota Corolla-Ksport Coilovers, custom exhaust, Weapon R intake with Ram Air Kit
More CCA will help. But it is really not necessary unless you have a lot of electronics, do only slow city driving, or live in very cold climate.
Just remember to enclose the fuse link so there is no chance of shorting or sparks flying (you are very close to an old gas tank).
Why do you want to relocate the battery, you want to put something else there? If you just want more capacity, you can add a second battery instead of replacing it with a bigger battery. The megawatt stereo guys do it all the time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNightWolf
More CCA?
I'm looking around right now to see exactly what I would have to do and it looks pretty simple so far.
Just a fusible link would work as the main fuse right?
Like the one up by the battery?
More CCA will help. But it is really not necessary unless you have a lot of electronics, do only slow city driving, or live in very cold climate.
Just remember to enclose the fuse link so there is no chance of shorting or sparks flying (you are very close to an old gas tank).
Why do you want to relocate the battery, you want to put something else there? If you just want more capacity, you can add a second battery instead of replacing it with a bigger battery. The megawatt stereo guys do it all the time.
I want better airflow in the engine bay.
And I want it to look cleaner
Battery imo makes the bay look dirty and crowded
__________________
-1994 Toyota Corolla-Ksport Coilovers, custom exhaust, Weapon R intake with Ram Air Kit
Should be fairly easy, just remember to bolt it down well and remember to enclose the fuse link. You don't want the battery to fly around in an emergency!
Try to get some good quality power cable, maybe a bigger gauge. Run the cable carefully making sure there is no chance it will get crimped or nicked. You can do more research in some of the stereo forums.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNightWolf
I want better airflow in the engine bay.
And I want it to look cleaner
Battery imo makes the bay look dirty and crowded
Should be fairly easy, just remember to bolt it down well and remember to enclose the fuse link. You don't want the battery to fly around in an emergency!
Try to get some good quality power cable, maybe a bigger gauge. Run the cable carefully making sure there is no chance it will get crimped or nicked. You can do more research in some of the stereo forums.
I can get a battery case online pretty cheap, and get some wiring somewhere like a home improvement place and some covering for the wire to protect it.
And probably a more powerful batter, right now I think I have a 550 cca which is plenty for stock location, not sure for trunk relocation though,
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-1994 Toyota Corolla-Ksport Coilovers, custom exhaust, Weapon R intake with Ram Air Kit
OEM CCA was 360 so anything over 500 should be good
if i was going to relocate a battery i would look into a gel type non-maintenance since you can mount them pretty much anywhere without the risk of battery acid or anything, you can even mount them upside or sideways. they're used a lot for wire tucks so people can hide them in bumpers and what not and they tend to be smaller size dimensions wise
OEM CCA was 360 so anything over 500 should be good
if i was going to relocate a battery i would look into a gel type non-maintenance since you can mount them pretty much anywhere without the risk of battery acid or anything, you can even mount them upside or sideways. they're used a lot for wire tucks so people can hide them in bumpers and what not and they tend to be smaller size dimensions wise
How much do those usually run?
Not sure when I'll be able to spend loads of money on my car again, I just spent 200$ on Christmas presents for my girlfriends family, and bought a high flow filter.
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-1994 Toyota Corolla-Ksport Coilovers, custom exhaust, Weapon R intake with Ram Air Kit
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