won't idle

[corollagirl96]

1996 Corolla 1.6L w/ 167 k miles

Super super super hard to start. Cranks and cranks and cranks without firing. Eventually it starts to fire a little bit then a little bit more. Doesn't mater if my foot is on the gas pedal or not.

Once I get the car started as long as I'm moving forward and/or have my foot on the gas it runs and drives perfectly, But if I come to stop and let my foot off the gas it will chug and then stall, and be super hard to start again.
Doesn't make any difference if the engine is hot or cold.

I found the thread on how to remove the throttlebody/IAC valve and clean them, but is there any other corolla-specific culprit I should look at while I'm under the hood?

[95GeoPrizmGuy]

when was your last tune up? the hard starting, to me, points to the distributor cap and rotor (as long as the battery is good) if you can't remember when these were changed or have never been changed, I'd do that first. http://tech.mirage-performance.com/distributorcaprotor.html thats not a 4A-FE motor, but it gives you an idea...its also a good idea to change the plugs and wires when you do this...I would use NGK.
As for the stalling...could be a lot of things (gummed up IAC maybe?)
First and foremost though I'd give it a good tune up and see if that helps.

[corollagirl96]

I changed the distributor cap and rotor and that about 60% fixed it. I also cleaned the iac valve but it didn't seem particulary dirty and i dont think it made too much difference.

Now it idles fast in park but slow and almost stalls when i put it in drive, reverse, or even neutral. Trans fluid and filter was changed about 40k miles ago.

[wei]

Originally Posted by corollagirl96

I changed the distributor cap and rotor and that about 60% fixed it. I also cleaned the iac valve but it didn't seem particulary dirty and i dont think it made too much difference.

Now it idles fast in park but slow and almost stalls when i put it in drive, reverse, or even neutral. Trans fluid and filter was changed about 40k miles ago.

plugs and wires?

[95GeoPrizmGuy]

i agree with the plugs and wires statement too, but if you can't afford them right now, atleast take out the plugs and inspect them and there is a way to check the wires with a multi-meter but im not sure how (im sure google could help you there)
as for your high idle in park..cars usually have a higher (sounding) idle in park...do you have an RPM gauge in your car? whats it saying when your in park and whats it saying when you put it in gear? I'm almost positive normal idle for our engines is around 700 to 750 rpms
you might want to adjust the idle screw (i dont know the technical name for it, its below the throttle cables)

but if the distributor cap and rotor fixed it 60% im pretty sure the plugs and wires would get you back to 100%

when you cleaned the IACV...did you take the sensor off before you sprayed carb cleaner on it?

[ganda1f]

There is no sensor really in the IACV. Removing the green-ish plastic block (approx 2x2 inches) will expose a metal cylinder (knob) which opens and closes the idle air valve. This cylinder should rotate *completely* freely and not stick in any way. Cleaning the valve itself can be done by spraying carb cleaner into the hole in the throttle body. One has to remove the intake hose (between air-filter box and throttle body) to gain access to the idle air hole.
The green-ish block contains a solenoid that works with two magnets to open/close the air valve.

[95GeoPrizmGuy]

Originally Posted by ganda1f

There is no sensor really in the IACV. Removing the green-ish plastic block (approx 2x2 inches) will expose a metal cylinder (knob) which opens and closes the idle air valve. This cylinder should rotate *completely* freely and not stick in any way. Cleaning the valve itself can be done by spraying carb cleaner into the hole in the throttle body. One has to remove the intake hose (between air-filter box and throttle body) to gain access to the idle air hole.
The green-ish block contains a solenoid that works with two magnets to open/close the air valve.

You're totally right, I guess i meant to say don't spray carb cleaner on the solenoid contacts..at least thats what i was taught growing up.

[corollagirl96]

on an unrelated note...its not possible to remove the pistons through the bottom side of the engine is it?

[mobiless2]

If you pull the crankshaft yes, but you still have to install from the top.