Replacement distributor for '96 Corolla

[graelich]

I'm looking to buy a replacement distributor for my 1996 Corolla. They are something like $350 retail, but I've seen less expensive ($100-$200) ones for sale online. If you have bought one online, or another comparably complex electronic part, I would be curious to know:

--Who was the maker/vendor?
--When did you buy it?
--How has it held up?

Many thanks,
graelich

[speedy25]

You spin the wheel and sometimes you get lucky and some times you dont!

Check a vendors policies to make sure you can return it EASILY if it doesnt work. Another poster on here bought a reman that was junk and replaced it with a junkyard item that did work.

-SP

[trd808]

i found a used one on craigslist for $30

[kaitaiya]

what's wrong with your distributor? have you gone through the trouble shooting steps? it could be as simple as changing a module as opposed to replacing the whole assembly.

this is from rock auto
1996 TOYOTA COROLLA 1.8L L4 : Ignition : Distributor WikiPrice
CoreTotalA-1 CARDONE Part # 3177435 Reman. Electronic

$158.99 core $40.00 total $198.99Add Part

CARDONE SELECT Part # 8477435 Electronic
Contains Cap & Rotor
$212.79 core $0.00 total $212.79Add Part

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1850588 Remanufactured

$207.79 core $47.00 total $254.79Add Part

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1855044
NEW
$269.79 core $0.00 total $269.79Add Part

AUTOLINE Part # D9090 SUPPLIED W/O COIL; Reman
Nippon-Denso
* Stocked in outlying warehouse--shipping delayed up to 3 business days$229.79 core $60.00 total $289.79Add Part

[graelich]

Leaking oil into the distributor cap.

I got a rebuild kit from Kbox and was about to start when I realized that I had another question:

Before removing the distributor, you disconnect the spark plugs, etc. and rotate the crankshaft with a wrench until the distributor rotor points toward the #1 cylinder terminal.

--Can this be done from above, or does it have to be done from under the car?
--Is there a special type of wrench that can reach the nut? Assuming I'm looking at the right thing, the nut is recessed in the center of the pulley with very little side clearance (say, 3/4") to get a wrench in.
--What size is the nut?

Thanks!
graelich

[kaitaiya]

yes it would be better to rotate it to the timing marks, and if you plan to do so from the crankshaft you would need to do it from the bottom, but if you mark the distributor body to the head(draw a line to mark where it is so you don't have to set the timing again) as well as mark where the rotor is pointing, you can just put it back inplace and it will be fine. just make sure you take the cap off first before you get overzealous and pull the distributor out. i've seen many people miss that step and then you will have to set TDC and timing again.

[sequoiasoon]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-1997-TO...item2566a90ab6

I got mine from ebay years ago from Distributor King with $0 core charge and lifetime warranty on parts. 1-866-699-KING(5464). It was $320 overnight shipped at that time which was 1/2 price of anywhere else. I sold that to somebody else. I don't see any listings from him anymore but you could try to call. Last feedback was 6 months ago. http://stores.ebay.com/DISTRIBUTOR-KING Last I looked sometime last year I saw them for the $120-ish range from him.

Mine went out twice (original at 108k, 30K junkyard replacement died 82k after install) the same way. O rings leaked and oil coated everything inside shorting igniter.

[speedy25]

I have disassembled other distributors and replaced the seal before. Same problem as anything else rubber... its gets hard with age and stops sealing. I dont know if the seal is available from a bearing house or auto electric supply. You wont find it in regular auto parts stores and probably not Toyota either.

You dont have to put it on TDC, if you take the cap off and note the position of the rotor. Dont forget to set the timing correctly.

-SP

[graelich]

In the end I bought a new distributor, and I'm just about to install it. I haven't done this before, and I had one question:

Obviously all of my alignment marks are on the old distributor. I was planning to visually match the orientation of the new unit to that of the old, make sure the contacts in the cap are in the same place, point the rotor in the same direction, seat the distributor in the engine, and bolt it down. I'm assuming that that will be close enough to start the engine without doing any damage, and then I can adjust the timing later. Correct (or not)?

[kaitaiya]

pretty much that's about it. notate where the rotor points, notate where the housing is on the head and try to align them back in the correct spots. should put you in the ballpark. i just rebuilt my friends 4age dizzy this weekend and it was painless.

[graelich]

All up and running again. Many thanks to all for the help.

One final question: How critical is it to check the timing? When the distributor is correctly aligned and (loosely) bolted down, there is very little play at all--maybe 1 mm, or less than 2 degrees, which is 20% of the spec (10 degrees BTDC).

P.S. I gave up on overhauling the old distributor for the time being because I couldn't get the pin out of the axle (no vice or press where I am at the moment). Will give it another try later.