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7th Generation (1993-1997) Specific discussion of the 7th generation

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Old 02-02-2012, 09:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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noise and vibration

ok, how to describe, was sitting at 110 the other day and horrible noise in the car.
it was like really bad road surface noise but it wasnt.
the iam not sure what the noise is from but it sounded like the engine in pain and a drouny/whine.
then a light vibration started in the car aswell, not the steering as much as the whole car.

i jacked it up and wheel bearings seem spot on.
i have done 110 plenty before with no problems, this just started 2 days ago.
it can happen anywhere from 85 on.....

anyone any ideas?
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Old 02-03-2012, 05:18 AM   #2 (permalink)
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This is something that cannot be diagnosed here. It can be all kinds of things in a 15+ YO car. You will just have to check and/or replace drivetrain items until you find the culprit(s).

-SP
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Old 02-03-2012, 02:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Spun bearing comes to mind. Poor rolla..
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Old 02-03-2012, 05:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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the problem is that you're driving a 15 yo car at 110. keep it under 85 and you'll be fine. when you do 110 you take the economy out of it and there's no point to having a corolla anymore.
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Old 02-04-2012, 05:15 PM   #5 (permalink)
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He didnt specify UNITS, but being from Canada should be a giveaway he was talking 110 clicks. About 65 mph for the rest of you English speakers.

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Old 02-04-2012, 10:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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yea iam talking kph guys.......

ok iam 99% sure its the caliper on passenger side
did it a wee bit today,
so just for the craic as it was what i suspected, i started breaking while accelerating and the noise and vibration was spot on for what normally happens.
so how do i go about investigating further?

iam going to try tackle this tomorrow.
so iam assuming the caliper is about to seize and i wana get to it before it does but have no idea how.
someone give me a dumbened down version of how to go about it
thanks
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Old 02-04-2012, 10:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samiam2013 View Post
the problem is that you're driving a 15 yo car at 110. keep it under 85 and you'll be fine. when you do 110 you take the economy out of it and there's no point to having a corolla anymore.
great imput
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Old 02-05-2012, 12:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Two trouble points on the calipers-

The slider pins can seize up causing problems as well as the caliper piston. Get a can of brake hardware grease so you can add some to the components as they get removed and cleaned. Use a c-clamp if you dont have a harbor freight store to get a cheap piston pusher. The piston should push in easily. The slider pins should be easy to move by hand.

-SP
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Old 02-07-2012, 10:49 AM   #9 (permalink)
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please update us on what the problem is when you find out...I think mine does the same thing.

intermittent shake at around 110-120 kph but only felt in steering wheel..
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Old 02-07-2012, 01:00 PM   #10 (permalink)
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It may do the same thing but for different reasons. If you dont have the skills to jack up your car and test parts, the PLEASE take it to a professional for inspection. Front end problems are best checked aby a REAL alignment shop who knows how to check things over and is not in business to pad your parts bill. (like chain stores!)

-SP
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Old 02-09-2012, 02:49 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newtoyota View Post
please update us on what the problem is when you find out...I think mine does the same thing.

intermittent shake at around 110-120 kph but only felt in steering wheel..
if yours is just around that speed i would say its trackings or simply wheels need balancing

Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy25 View Post
It may do the same thing but for different reasons. If you dont have the skills to jack up your car and test parts, the PLEASE take it to a professional for inspection. Front end problems are best checked aby a REAL alignment shop who knows how to check things over and is not in business to pad your parts bill. (like chain stores!)

-SP
well i took the caliper off the other day and slider pins seemed ok
a tiny bit sticky but not enough to cause my problem i dont think.
i didnt go near the piston as i didnt see your post till after i had the work done.
what is it you suggest to do? push the piston back to see how tight it is, is it?
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Old 03-01-2012, 10:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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ok, had the car in the garage today and its a seizing caliper and warped discs
si ill do the caliper first and do the discs later
anybody any advise on anywhere to go?
auto factors or scrap yard ?
what sort of price should i be looking at?
i priced a caliper in canadian tire today and is was near $150 and $40 back when you bring the old caliper, how does that sound?
its cheaper than home so doesnt sound too bad to me
i would near chance a scrap yard but dont want to run into the same hassle again......
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:43 AM   #13 (permalink)
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If you have NOT done brake work in the past, I wouldnt suggest you learn now. I dont want you to mess up and become a statistic. If your calipers arent too rusty they can be rebuilt. Thats a bigger IF the further north you go. Suck it up and have someone install new rotors pads and calipers. It will solve your problems (except a flat wallet) and you will probably make that money back quickly with the newly found better gas mileage.

-SP
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Old 03-02-2012, 09:47 AM   #14 (permalink)
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well the garage was quoting too much and i have no issues with doing any of the work.
my only problem is iam only living in canada a few months and didnt bring any tools with me and will need to get a hand bleeding the breaks, other than that its a straight forward job.
the pads are 100% even though the discs are warped.......i may throw on a new set if i see uneven ware when i take them off.
i wouldnt however take on to rebuild the caliper myself, i will just buy a reconditioned one.
do i need to bother doing both or will one do?
this question is not a matter of saving money i just didnt think there would be a need for both.
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Old 03-02-2012, 03:33 PM   #15 (permalink)
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If you do pads and rotors they must be changed on both sides...needs to be symetric

the caliper of course only on the faulty side.

Consider a brake fluid flush while you're at it, because old fluid/ rusty system will also possibly decrease the retracting of pistons...

buy mid grade rotors. don't go for the cheapest ones you can find... only the second cheapest...
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