I'm fairly new to this forum and to cars aswell so please be easy on me. I bought a 95 Corolla Wagon with about 135k miles on it. I got a check engine light on it and I figured out it was code 71 - EGR System -. I thought it was clogged so I got it off partly, didnt know how to unplug the sensor (if there is a trick how to get the electrical plug off please tell me), and cleant it with carbchoke, I also sprayed it into the throttle body. It ran fine afterwards however a while earlier I wanted to try out Octane 89 instead of 87 so I did, engine was way louder than normal but ran more powerful and smoother (less dashboard vibrations). Now it was time to refill and I choose the regular again. Now the engine started to make the same loud noise and even worse. I don't really know how to describe it, whether it is a grinding, knocking or whining noise so I recorded it.
Today I will replace the the EGR gasket since it was worn.
Yes, when I drive reverse the noise persist however I didn't try going 40-60 in reverse. The noise is louder when driving, when in idle it's a different noise. I know there is a hole in the EGR system and didnt get to fix it yet. Someone suggested it has to do with an engine misfire and I should check the spark plugs or get new ones. I really don't know what happened, it ran very smooth, except for the dashboard and steering wheel vibrations on idle, the engine ran fine. Strange that now only the steering wheel vibrates, the dashboard is relatively 'quiet'
it sounds like an exhaust leak. have a friend stuff a rag in the tail pipe and hold it while the car idles, listen for where the hissing sounds near the engine are coming from.
Does that also explain the first engine noise? I know there is a leak in the EGR system but have no idea how this could make a weird engine noise while driving.
"at idle unplug the egr vac line and apply a manual vacuum to the diaphram, it should cause the engine to stutter and then stall if its working properly. the engine determines if the egr is working indirectly via the map sensor, which if bad could cause drivabilty issues because the 7afe uses a speed density air metering system"
Could anyone confirm this? I would hate to buy unnecessary parts. It all seems to lead to the EGR System, which I know has a hole in it somewhere hence the sissing noise of an open exhaust system.
I took it to a mechanic to just check out what's wrong, he checked the EGR valve and he said it worked however the sensor is no good. I made him check the spark plugs and they all worked aswell he said, last thing he did was check the fuel pump. I dont know what he did but he revved the car very high in park and the engine stopped violently as if it went in reverse all of a sudden and smoke came out. Then he unplugged a tube and started revving the car again and it went smoother, moment he put the tube back on it started to stall and the car went in reverse again with smoke. He put everything back together as it was and now the car is not drivable. It stalls and stops as if it's in the wrong gear (on a manual). Sometimes it works for a bit, when I dont press the peddle too hard but when I have to stop it just fails on me again. I can make a video of what the mechanic did if needed, anyways this is the picture of where the tube was and where he took it out and put it back in to test the fuel pump.
Another question was, whether he meant the fuel injector pump or the real fuel pump in the back.
Dont know why the car doesnt work anymore after the mechanic touched it...
Wow dude, you really shouldn't be driving that anyway. Telling from your first video, it looks like you've got massive shaking due to the engine. It almost sounds like you've got something wrong with one of the wheels or tires, the way it's shaking and making that rotating noise (but not in the second video)
I'd say the mechanic got closer to finding the problem.
I just got new tires and all that so they calibrated it, I'm not sure whether there is anything wrong with the wheels it seemed to work well for whenever I drove it, no problems at all. I think the 'shaking' was a pothole lol, in Houston we got many everywhere. I just wonder what the part is where he removed the tube from. It's really my only type of transportation so I'm a bit desperate, just paid school fees aswell lolzz
Anyways just troubleshooted the fuel pump by connecting Fp and +b and apparently it runs, I'm not sure what the 'proper' sound is but I get a sound in the back and a sound in the front. I also have 2 new error codes, 24 and 31, code 71 is gone after I changed a tube to the EGR and changed the valve gasket. Also the O/D off starts blinking consistently during the diagnose. I saw there was a schematic on the forum of where all the sensors are located, could anyone forward that one to me? I cannot find it anymore.
In the pic posted the "tube" is a vacuum line from the manifold to the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) There should be vacuum at the hose. Fuel pressure should change when the hose is connected and disconnected. It should be higher with the hose disconnected.
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