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7th Generation (1993-1997) Specific discussion of the 7th generation

 
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#1 Old 11-18-2012, 09:34 PM
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ECU switch

I have a Cali-spec 1997 corolla. Would the car still run if I put a fed-spec ECU in it?

I'd like to know, because i want to install a cat that's not legal in california (i live in colorado now), and I'm not really confident enough to try the spark plug trick and I don't want to deal with the CEL being on all the time.
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#2 Old 11-18-2012, 10:29 PM
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Is it a 4afe or 7 afe? I have a 4afe I would like to get ride of.
If you put a federal one in it will work but you will need something around 93-96 when the 2nd o2 sensor was not required. Even if the o2 sensor is still there a ECU from then earlier version will not even care about it.
If they do emission testing I dont know if it will work with the OBII since that is where they will get results from for your year. Earlier years they test from the pipe.
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#3 Old 11-19-2012, 12:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marpolsdofer View Post
Is it a 4afe or 7 afe? I have a 4afe I would like to get ride of.
If you put a federal one in it will work but you will need something around 93-96 when the 2nd o2 sensor was not required. Even if the o2 sensor is still there a ECU from then earlier version will not even care about it.
If they do emission testing I dont know if it will work with the OBII since that is where they will get results from for your year. Earlier years they test from the pipe.
Lol, sorry about that. I always forget something. It's a 7afe. And where I live, they apparently don't test for emissions at all, so it's not really a worry.
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#4 Old 11-19-2012, 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by hokeymcf View Post
Lol, sorry about that. I always forget something. It's a 7afe. And where I live, they apparently don't test for emissions at all, so it's not really a worry.
I hear yea, Iowa does not do it either. Some state do, some dont, some have different regulations with CA usually being the the most pain.
From what I head most CA if the do a engine swap or mods that will keep them from passing they will keep the engine or the stock parts around to swap before the test.

I just swapped a 93 7AFEengine, 93 7AFE ECU ECT, and a 5 speed manual in to a 96 Geo Prizm that had a 3 speed and 4AFE. Naturally I have some codes becaues the ECT thinks the shift solenoids are bad from the 4 speed auto (A245E) but that's becaues there is none there. If I lived in a emissions state I would fail. The fact that they might not even be able to get the OBII working might be a fail.
I have the manual version of the 7AFE ECU from the scrap year I got the trans from but on the 3rd port is a 12 pin and not a 24. So only way to make it work is cutting wires around witch I decided I worked on the car to much already and already getting really cold out.
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#5 Old 11-19-2012, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by marpolsdofer View Post
I hear yea, Iowa does not do it either. Some state do, some dont, some have different regulations with CA usually being the the most pain.
From what I head most CA if the do a engine swap or mods that will keep them from passing they will keep the engine or the stock parts around to swap before the test.

I just swapped a 93 7AFEengine, 93 7AFE ECU ECT, and a 5 speed manual in to a 96 Geo Prizm that had a 3 speed and 4AFE. Naturally I have some codes becaues the ECT thinks the shift solenoids are bad from the 4 speed auto (A245E) but that's becaues there is none there. If I lived in a emissions state I would fail. The fact that they might not even be able to get the OBII working might be a fail.
I have the manual version of the 7AFE ECU from the scrap year I got the trans from but on the 3rd port is a 12 pin and not a 24. So only way to make it work is cutting wires around witch I decided I worked on the car to much already and already getting really cold out.
Forgive me if this sounds like a noob question but, why would you have to cut any wires? Wouldn't you just have to pull the batch of wires, along with the connectors, out of the wiring harness from the donor car and just plug that into your manual ECU and then your transmission?
I'm confused.
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#6 Old 11-19-2012, 02:16 PM
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For what it's worth, I have a 96 Corolla, don't know if it was Cali-spec or not but it had the second O2 sensor. I put in a high-flow cat--whether or not OBX actually put catalyst material in there, for how little I paid, is a valid question--and the CEL didn't come on for any kind of issue. Drove it about 160,000 miles that way.

---- Bug, 82 TE72, 3TC/A40 -------|- Jezebel, 96 AE102, 7AGE/A245E --

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#7 Old 11-19-2012, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hokeymcf View Post
Forgive me if this sounds like a noob question but, why would you have to cut any wires? Wouldn't you just have to pull the batch of wires, along with the connectors, out of the wiring harness from the donor car and just plug that into your manual ECU and then your transmission?
I'm confused.
Well here is the thing. The 1st and 2nd port in the ECU come from the engine harness and then there are 2 more on the engine harness that plugs in to the chassis harness. Depending on the year and size of the engine the engine to chassis harness pins are not in the right spot usually. This requires you to pull the wires out of the connecter then slid them back in. Now the 3rd port for the ECU witch the connecter comes from the chassis harness the ECT (for the automatic cars) are are 24 pin and the manual is 12 pins. My car when I put the engine in was a manual 3 speed original (my engine came with a 4 speed auto but I took a manual from a junk yard). I had to rewire my 7AFE harness 2 times once to make it work with the chassis harness the other to make it work with a manual. Since the manual ECU is a 12 pin and not a 24 it means it will not work becaues it will not fit in the port. Only way to do it is cut the 12 pin connecter of the donor car from the yard and then start yanking wires and put them in that or if I cant get the connecter cut the wires make my own female ends witch I have done in the past with great successes with many other thing.
The plan was to get the chassis harness so I can get cruse and some things that I liked on my 93 like auto shut of light when you close the door and NO DLR as well. In order for you to do this you need to tare the dash completely apart, unscrew the wiring, disconnect the wiring, feed it throw the fenders, around the condenser, unhook all the lights,, feed ith threw the other fender, then disconnect some more. The one from the yard was all oily and the fenders and condenser for the AC smashed in making it even more harder to get at. So next summer I will get the one from my old car has everything I want, then I will have to make some custom wiring to get the Manual 7AFE ECU to work.
Sorry for making it so long
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#8 Old 11-19-2012, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marpolsdofer View Post
Well here is the thing. The 1st and 2nd port in the ECU come from the engine harness and then there are 2 more on the engine harness that plugs in to the chassis harness. Depending on the year and size of the engine the engine to chassis harness pins are not in the right spot usually. This requires you to pull the wires out of the connecter then slid them back in. Now the 3rd port for the ECU witch the connecter comes from the chassis harness the ECT (for the automatic cars) are are 24 pin and the manual is 12 pins. My car when I put the engine in was a manual 3 speed original (my engine came with a 4 speed auto but I took a manual from a junk yard). I had to rewire my 7AFE harness 2 times once to make it work with the chassis harness the other to make it work with a manual. Since the manual ECU is a 12 pin and not a 24 it means it will not work becaues it will not fit in the port. Only way to do it is cut the 12 pin connecter of the donor car from the yard and then start yanking wires and put them in that or if I cant get the connecter cut the wires make my own female ends witch I have done in the past with great successes with many other thing.
The plan was to get the chassis harness so I can get cruse and some things that I liked on my 93 like auto shut of light when you close the door and NO DLR as well. In order for you to do this you need to tare the dash completely apart, unscrew the wiring, disconnect the wiring, feed it throw the fenders, around the condenser, unhook all the lights,, feed ith threw the other fender, then disconnect some more. The one from the yard was all oily and the fenders and condenser for the AC smashed in making it even more harder to get at. So next summer I will get the one from my old car has everything I want, then I will have to make some custom wiring to get the Manual 7AFE ECU to work.
Sorry for making it so long
O.O that's quite a bit of work. Would I have to do all that if I wanted a manual (if the parts were from a 96-97 corolla), or is yours a special case?
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#9 Old 11-19-2012, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Piloter View Post
For what it's worth, I have a 96 Corolla, don't know if it was Cali-spec or not but it had the second O2 sensor. I put in a high-flow cat--whether or not OBX actually put catalyst material in there, for how little I paid, is a valid question--and the CEL didn't come on for any kind of issue. Drove it about 160,000 miles that way.
Sounds promising. Well, it's not like I wasn't going to replace it anyway, I just didn't want to deal with the CEL, but it seems like I won't have to worry. If it makes a difference, I was gonna replace the rest of the exhaust piping, including the muffler, at the same time. I was also thinking about getting at least the header professionally sprayed with a ceramic coating.
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#10 Old 11-19-2012, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hokeymcf View Post
O.O that's quite a bit of work. Would I have to do all that if I wanted a manual (if the parts were from a 96-97 corolla), or is yours a special case?
Some what special case. I was going from a 4AFE and 131L Trans. Since I want all the features of the 93 I would have to take the chassis harness as well. The 93 (both the manual and high end version) had auto shut of light when you close the door, cruse control, no DLR. The 96 my currant witch is a Prizm (other words is a Corolla just owned by Geo/Chevy) that had no curse, light stay on all the time if you forget to shut them off, and DLR. It also had passenger airbags but I hat the dash style Geo put in there.
If you want to keep what you have, same engine and just want a manual. Just wiring you need to short the park neutral switch (or wire it to the clutch pedal safety switch), and wire up revers lights witch you can do under the hood and dont have to touch the ECU. You can use the same ECU you will get codes for the shit silinoids then they will leave and never come back. Then you just need to shifter and linkages(witch mean you have to run it under the dash), fly wheel, clutch kit, master cylinder, clutch pedal, then make own steel hydraulic lines (its break line just them then from the downer car but keep the rubber hose that should be attached to the trans).
I just wanted all the electrical to mimic or close to mimic factory but for now it just functional.
Engine harness you can keep there will already match the chassis harness since you are keeping the same engine and that how it was factory.
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#11 Old 11-19-2012, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by marpolsdofer View Post
Some what special case. I was going from a 4AFE and 131L Trans. Since I want all the features of the 93 I would have to take the chassis harness as well. The 93 (both the manual and high end version) had auto shut of light when you close the door, cruse control, no DLR. The 96 my currant witch is a Prizm (other words is a Corolla just owned by Geo/Chevy) that had no curse, light stay on all the time if you forget to shut them off, and DLR. It also had passenger airbags but I hat the dash style Geo put in there.
If you want to keep what you have, same engine and just want a manual. Just wiring you need to short the park neutral switch (or wire it to the clutch pedal safety switch), and wire up revers lights witch you can do under the hood and dont have to touch the ECU. You can use the same ECU you will get codes for the shit silinoids then they will leave and never come back. Then you just need to shifter and linkages(witch mean you have to run it under the dash), fly wheel, clutch kit, master cylinder, clutch pedal, then make own steel hydraulic lines (its break line just them then from the downer car but keep the rubber hose that should be attached to the trans).
I just wanted all the electrical to mimic or close to mimic factory but for now it just functional.
Engine harness you can keep there will already match the chassis harness since you are keeping the same engine and that how it was factory.
Oh, ok. Thanks for the info.
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