No Start after servicing

[NWMO 95 Prizm Lsi]

Hey all,

I finally got around to replacing the crank & cam seal along with installing a new timing belt, water pump and tensioner pulley. Went to start the car upon wrapping up and just got a click. It sounds like it is at the starter and I didn't want to crawl back under the car this evening.

Pulled the battery (5+ years old) and put it on a charger, but I had bright lights, so I don't think that is the problem. I removed the starter while servicing, including the power cable, so I suspect that is my problem spot. When I get home tomorrow I plan on:

1) Turning the motor at the crank with a wrench to make sure the starter didn't partially engage.

2) Install charged battery, cross my fingers, and give it a whirl.

3) Grumble some as I jack up the car and crawl under to inspect/repair the power connection to the starter. I didn't remove the smaller wire to the solenoid, so I'm hoping I didn't get a good enough connection on primary power when reinstalling the cable.

Am I missing something? All comments welcome.

Chris

[Shotty]

Sounds like bad connection or battery. Just because you have enough juice for bright lights doesnt mean you have enough to start. The starter requires alot more amperage than the lights and accessories. If your battery checks out then check your connections and make sure theyre clean.

[NWMO 95 Prizm Lsi]

Hey all,

I reworked the starter connection, installed the charged battery and she started on the first tap. Took is for a little test drive (10 miles) and everything is as smooth as can be expected for a car with 235,000 miles.

I will keep an eye on fluids etc. From just the short drive, it won't surprise me if I have to pull the valve cover and use more silicone around the edge.

Beyond the basics of keeping things marked and in time when installing the new belt, I offer three helpful hints that I would have liked up front.

1. Breaking the crank bolt loose can be a challenge. I ended up using a standard door hinge at the flywheel. It is just the right size and when partially opened (hinge to the top), it locks the fly wheel up enough to stay in place and let you break the bolt loose.

IF YOU ARE REPLACING the timing belt as part of the service, a large wrench (approx. 25mm or 1" worked well) on the cam shaft would do the trick as well. I tried briefly using the pulley bolt on the cam shaft, but after tighting it a quarter turn or so, I was worried I would break it before getting the crank bolt loose. Thus, ended up using the hinge as shared above.

2. Maybe I didn't look in the right spot or read carefully enough (Haynes manual), BUT, when removing or replacing the middle timing belt cover, it is impossible to do with the timing belt tensioner and water pump pulley in place. I wasted mucho time figuring that out. In hindsight, just a visual inspection should have been enough, but wasn't for me.

3. If you don't know the last time the valve cover was removed, assume all the plasitc pieces are harder than sh*t and will need replaced. spark plug tube seals, valve cover washers (rubber on bottom), PCV valve & grommet. Brittle, brittle, brittle.

HTH,

Chris