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Deeder's fix it list, now with long thread life™

103K views 2K replies 37 participants last post by  deeder7001 
#1 · (Edited)
This is mostly a list I've come up with for what needs to be fixed on my 94 DX. I don't really need any DIYs for most things(google and search are my friends).

I'm not going to do all this at one time. I could use suggestions on things I should start with. Anything I should add to the list?

timing belt and associated with job(?)

Low priority

tie rods/ends
paint
spare tire cover


Things I've done so far:

headliner
control arms
all 4 suspension assemblies
driver side ball joint
wheel studs on driver side front(4) and rear(2)
power steering hose
sway bar end links
sway bar bushings
alternator
brake light wiring harness
driver door power lock
inner and outer front door handles
inner rear door handles
starter
hood and driver fender(dents)
headlight housings
intake hose
upper O2 sensor
4 tires
front brake pads
Radiator and hoses Oct 11 2017
Front wheel bearings
Passenger side axle Feb 25 2018

Oil change "log":
Aug 29 2020 229200
Feb 29 2020 225220
Nov 10 2019 221000
March 31 2019 215000
July 14 2018 209000
July 18 2017 201250
 
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#2 ·
Okay, on the starter, may I suggest that maybe(if you this mechanically inclined) you can simply replace the contacts for the solenoid. This takes an hour I'd guess if done on the car(I removed my starter for simplicity). The contacts are what usually goes bad and are $20 vs $60+

For power loss, be sure to double check the timing and while you are in there doing your tune-up....add a fuel filter.

For the timing belt, look to replace the water pump and the small rubber hose behind it while doing the job. A little extra here will save much more headaches later.

My .02
 
#5 ·
Axle - If the boot is torn it could have damaged the CV joint. Replace if you feel or hear clunking in turns

Fuel Pump -No reason to touch this unless it's failed

Alignment - Does the car go in a straight line with your hands off the wheel? Is the steering wheel straight or turned slightly to the right when going in a straight line? If both are true, save it for when you get new tires. Tire shop can tell too if your tires are worn weird.

Power Loss - Replace distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, and plugs. Also check PCV; remove it and shake it. If it rattles, it's good, if not, replace. Check air filter, replace if dirty. Also try some Lucas in the fuel system, or at the very least some Heet gas line de-icer/water remover.

Starter - If it's intermittent, check the solenoid, contacts, and ground wire first before replacing/rebuilding.

Brake Fluid - Replace when you get new brakes, if you need them as long as it isn't brown.

Timing Belt - Replace every 60k, but if it fails the only issue is needing to put the engine back in time thanks to the design of these engines. You should replace the water pump and oil pump at the same time; both are much more serious of an issue if they fail than the belt.

Transmission Fluid - In A/T, replace if burnt smelling or black/dark orange. For 3 speeds, have rear differential fluid replaced as well. Drop the pan for best results on the transmission.

Brakes - Check using a micrometer or caliber against specifications in Haynes book.
 
#6 ·
Friday/Saturday i'm getting the axle done. The CV joint is separate from the axle assembly? I'm also going to get the rear interior door handles fixed as well as the front passenger exterior handle. And Haynes manual!!

Next week I'll do the cap/rotor and get brakes/fluid checked.

How would I check the timing belt?
 
#11 ·
Driving straight means nothing. I've seen cars on my alignment rack that were toed out or in equally and thus drove straight but were scrubbing through tires every 1,000 miles! Get it aligned by a GOOD shop, ask if they can get the toe set equal side to side and tell them to tell you if the camber or caster is out of spec and what if anything they can do or suggest doing to fix it.
 
#13 · (Edited)
The driver's side axle is done. I paid a guy to change it. He also checked the passenger side and found that CV boot was also torn but hasn't been that way for long. Probably fix that next week. Somehow the alignment was affected in a good way.

I also did the rotor, and fuse holder. Also purchased the Haynes manual.

Next weekend will be the cap and other axle. And I'll have the guy check the timing belt if possible.

So far the car feels a bit more responsive. Cap will hopefully be the other part of the "power loss".
 
#15 ·
That many miles on the sensors means they are likely toast. Get new Denso branded ones, or at least replace the upper one. Will help gas mileage and may improve your power loss issue slightly because a new O2 sensor will be much better at giving your ECM the right information to balance the air to fuel ratio correctly. Don't expect it to fix a major power loss issue though. If you have the power loss when the engine is cold or at full throttle (the two situations both where signals from the O2 sensor get ignored) then you will still have issues after replacing it. I would still replace though for the fuel economy and to prolong the life of your catalytic converter.


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#24 ·
If you're talking about bulbs, listen to Bitter. He can do no wrong... hopefully :p

If you want to change housings, you'd do well to avoid getting USDM housings. The output is fairly poor, according to many on this forum. People highly prefer the single H4 bulb layout in Euro headlights. You can find stock Euro housings somewhere in LHD layout. Get them imported from some LHD country. You can also get a set of BZ Touring clear lens headlights from Japan, but they'll be RHD, so they'll flare up the wrong way.

You can go the eBay route, get some projector headlights that will be somewhat usable with HIDs, or xenon bulbs. The projectors in those headlights are very poor compared to real ones, but passable. You can also do a custom retrofit with real projectors and get badass output, like gold94corolla has done.

If you have a bit of patience, I have a set of JDM BZ Touring headlights in my garage, and stock yellowed USDM headlights currently on my Corolla. As soon as my 9005 pigtails and relays come in the mail, I'll rewire my headlights to H4 bulbs and install them. I can show you the difference in output.
 
#26 ·
9005s in the 9006 sockets will also work if the stock reflectors have caps so you can't physically see the tip of the bulb from the outside. They work if there's not a cap too, but it's a little unfriendly to other road users so don't do it. Need a nail clipper and a bastard file but it's quick and cheap. Get the GE Nighthawks for best output and life.

Of course there's no replacement for projector retrofit (220 watts of HIDs, baby!), but the H4 enclosures ain't bad for something you don't have to do a lot of fab work for, as long as you don't go for the RHD Ebay special as alluded to just about everywhere else here.
 
#28 ·
Go for H4 enclosures then. Here are my OEM Toyota Corolla BZ Touring headlights compared to the stock US headlights:



You can get an eBay knockoff set that looks the same for $75 shipped. But you'll need to rewire them. I made wire harnesses today, it's fairly easy. One works flawlessly, one blows the fuse every time (lol I'll figure it out tomorrow). Piloter was kind enough to write an amazing set of instructions for me a few weeks earlier (by the way, thanks Piloter! I ended up soldering everything just so it's secure perfectly).
 
#36 ·
I believe all mechanical parts, like engine, suspension, trans, brakes, etc. Cosmetic parts are different but may fit like body panels, lights, etc with some work. Interior parts like seats and door panels should swap but things like center console and dash are different but may fit the same if you're doing a total replacement.

Wiring may or may not be the same between main harnesses.
 
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