From what I've read the 1.6L engine didn't come pre-wired for the tach.

 

If this is the case, does anyone have any info on it?

 

There are two wires missing from the middle plug.
One of them connects to a screw in the back of the tach (just under the plug)
If you wrap a wire around this screw, and run that wire to the (ENG-) in the diagnosis box under the hood. Everything will work just fine.

 

there are two wires missing from the middle plug.
One of them connects to a screw in the back of the tach (just under the tach)
If you wrap a wire around this screw, and run that wire to the (ENG-) in the diagnosis box under the hood.

I'm somehow still confused. So one wire is going to be wrapped around a screw in the back of the tack and ran to the (ENG-) in the diagnosis box under the hood.

But how would that connect to the middle plug?

And aren't you only describing one wire?

 

A 97 would be OBDII and wouldn't have a diagnostics box/connector in the engine bay would it?

 

I do have a "diagnostics" box in the bay.

 

The diagnostics box is on OBD II cars as well.

 

I would have thought the box wouldn't be there with OBD II. Where's the OBD II diag port?

 

I have had countless cars in the past; and I am seriously dumbfounded by the fact that there isn't a proper D.I.Y. on this particular matter (I'm talking with pictures etc.). Or atleast in my countless hours of searching I cannot find anything. You would think people would want to have a tach just for the sake of having a tach (Like me). It's similar to the fact that most people with base model corollas want power windows.

 

Does anyone who has done this in the past have some pictures they could toss up on here so I know what i'm doing? I'm relatively car savvy but pictures can guide even the most un-savvy people in the right direction.

 

Does anyone who has done this in the past have some pictures they could toss up on here so I know what i'm doing? I'm relativel car savvy but pictures can guide even the most un-savvy people in the right direction.

Its really not that hard. But I have to take my cluster out today for gas guage adjustments, ill snap a few pics for you. I did this on both of my rollas.

 

Thanks for requesting these pics, you made me realize how badly I half assed the job. (wire just slung across the engine bay) It was meant as a "for the mean time" thing. Now a while down the road, I had forgotten. I want to completely hide or factor integrate it at some point soon.

Anyways, Ill also apologize, because the wire goes to "IG -" in the Diagnosis box. Though sadly my flash covered that part of the diagram

I just poked the wire through the top of the main wire cover, its a pinhole, oh well. It comes out right under the driver side dash. Rather convenient I thought.

And here is where the wire connects to. As you can see the copper in the "little film type wannabe motherboard" goes strait from the plug, to the screw. It also says "IG -" right under that screw (fun fact I forgot). I also forgot to snap a picture of the plug, but yours is missing that wire and the one to the left of it.

 

I also forgot to mention. Your gas gauge is forever going to be a bit off now. I've been told that you can take off the needle, fill the tank, dive for a while until the gauge would normally read "full", and place the needle back on in the "full" position.
This method to correct the issue is actually what I am attempting that got you these pics.
You could have gotten lucky and both of you had about the same amount of gas at the time of the switch. that's really the only way it wont be off.

 

I just nudged the needle up when I swapped clusters. My tank was nearly full, and the new gauges had a half empty tank, so I nudged the needle into the same approximate position. When the car is off, the needle is just hung there in place, so it shouldn't hurt anything. Mine still works perfectly.

What DOES need recalibrating by taking off the needle and putting it back on is the speedometer, if you happen to take the needle off in the first place. And if you want your odometer to show the proper number, you'll need to swap the odometer/speedometer assembly. It's fairly easy, and you can get the speedo to show properly with cruise control, a GPS or smartphone showing GPS speed, and a stretch of road.

 

Am I the only one that just rolled the odometer and everything else worked without re-calibration?

 

If you just rolled it, nothing needs recalibration. I just happened to swap the entire speedometer/odometer assembly from the old to the new gauges.

 

Oh lol.

 

Weazler! You are simply the best! So I just have to run this one wire like you said form the diag box (-IG Location) to the back of my tach and put it under the screw that reads (IG-)? Seems super simple now! thanks again for the pics.

 

You've got it.

 

Deeder, all Toyotas that had OBD under the hood during transition to OBDII ran both for a few years because the OBDII didn't provide diagnostics for some systems like ABS, possibly SRS, etc.

 

Nice write up. I'll give it a try tomorrow and see what happens.

 

This is great info, I bought a set of tach gauges for my 93 base model 1.6 and didn't have to add the extra wire. I just plugged in the gauges and everything worked except the gas gauge is a little off, stays on full forever and as it gets to half a tank the fuel light comes on. I will try messing with the needle as suggested above.
Thanks,
Crazyotto

 

Sorry, I misread your comment on my thread, but glad I could help in SOME way.
Ill refer to this (partial) post on another thread.


http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...eration-1993-1997/659497-haloruler64-s-96-corolla-build-thread-now-huskies.html

Disclaimer: I'll stop posting crap like this, when they come and put a breathalyzer on my computer.

yeah... it happens