Gas Leak @ tank/ lines - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Corolla 7th Generation (1993-1997) Specific discussion of the 7th generation

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post #1 of 13 Old 02-14-2017, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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Gas Leak @ tank/ lines

Hoping for Your Help AGAIN, PLEASE!

So, I have '96 Corolla DX (just got the car about 3 months ago).

I see a wet gas line that comes down by the tank.

I'm not sure if it's a return line or ...? But, I think I "MIGHT", have to lower the tank and replace the lines.

I'm wondering what the procedures are? And what should I be prepared to get to replace them?
Are they Clip on Connectors to the tank? What Size? nylon/steel?
I'm hoping I don't have to spend a great deal of $$$$!!! Perhaps I can use some of this flexable gas line hose and a couple of clamps?

Does the Exhaust have to come off? If so, that might be a Pain, since I see it's all been welded from the Manifold back.

I've only done a gas line repair once with a Quick Connect on a Cavalier.. Wasn't fun!

Please feel free to post any links or Pictures, etc....( I couldn't find much )
Thanking You ALL, for any advice and directions / instructions...

P.S.
I found this trick- if you don't have a Dorman Nylon compression tool. :
http://nastyz28.com/forum/threads/ho...e-tool.220894/
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Last edited by dmmackay; 02-14-2017 at 11:49 AM.
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post #2 of 13 Old 02-14-2017, 10:01 PM
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I can't answer it all, but here's what I know (coming from a '94 Corolla). I had to drop my gas tank because I had a bad strut, and it was causing the tank to contact the exhaust shield, which eventually created a crack in the gas tank and a leak, right above the exhaust pipe!.

I had to take off the back half of the exhaust..it wasn't bad. I believe there were two bolts with those "springs" that keep tension. Soak it in PB Blaster, especially if you live up north. Once that part of the exhaust was out of the way, there was a good amount of room to work. You've got to take out the rear seat cushion, and remove the bolts on the fuel pump access cover. Then you can remove the fuel pump from the tank. I left mine hanging, and got it far enough out of the way. I'm not sure that would be proper procedure..because you could easily damage it or mess up the float. One of these rubber lines could be the source of your leak, also. Check them carefully.

When my tank was under pressure, I could actually hear a hiss from the top of the tank, when I took off the inspection cover. You might have similar results.

There are two gas tank straps that need to be removed to drop the tank down. I'd use a jack and a piece of wood to make it a bit easier. I managed to drop it myself, but I had a friend help me put it back in. It wasn't a bad job, and the replacement tank was like $60 off of Amazon and is going strong.

Good luck!
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post #3 of 13 Old 02-16-2017, 06:32 PM
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Make sure it's not fuel running off a leak in the filler neck, which also tends to crack. That's a much easier fix than the lines.
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post #4 of 13 Old 02-17-2017, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Guys,

I guess the steps in Planning this repair are going to be:

1. Remove Exhaust!!! the one I think I will hate the most - since it's welded completely from header to muffler. (looks like the Reciprocating Saw will be coming out)
2. Disconnect/Remove Fuel Pump under rear seat? Is this the "Sending Unit" or Gas Pump- and does it have to be removed or can it be unplugged and left intact?
3. Disconnect filler hose
4. Support Tank/ Drain Excess Gas/ Remove Tank Straps



Koko4 , you say "One of these rubber lines could be the source of your leak, also"

Since, I haven't seen any rubber lines on my car.. I'm not sure if you are referring to the ones you may have/had on your Toyota. But, I guess that's what I'll be replacing them with. (Hopefully it will be safe)

Would anyone know what size the lines are that come from the tank?
I believe there's 3 in total- Guessing it's an Intake, Return and ?

Yes, I did find a youtube video for a 90-91 Corolla:
Thanks ALL
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post #5 of 13 Old 02-17-2017, 12:04 PM
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At least the 7th gen has an access hatch under the rear seat, for accessing the fuel pump, or so I've read - I've never lifted mine.
However, I had a '90 before this one, and the metal lines above the tank started leaking. The '90 had a access hatch too, but it accessed the fuel gauge sender!! So I got out the hole saw and some large pliers, and went to town - small hillbilly town, that is...




Lines to and from the pump were shot too, so I busted them off and made new ones...



This worked for the rest of this car's life - which essentially ended when the brake lines started leaking...

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1993 Sunfire Red Corolla, no extra letters on trunklid or title. 4A-FE, 3-speed automatic. There are still many others like it...
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post #6 of 13 Old 02-18-2017, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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WOW!
It doesn't look like you went through any trouble Pete. (lol)
I would be worried about
1. starting a fire with the hole saw
2. the lack of Protection for Passengers... did you put a metal patch over it afterwards?

Never know - I might wish I did the same before I finish... ( I'm thinking the Strap could break/line might break when moving it and I might need to get a new tank)...
I'm still not exactly sure where the leak is...

It is too bad there's not an access to the lines.. that would be slick to be able to cut them and feed a new line down- without dropping the tank/ and everything else.

Thanks for your Suggestion.
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post #7 of 13 Old 02-19-2017, 03:39 AM
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The rear seat is easy to lift. There are just two clips. Fit your fingers right under the front of the passenger seat and give a good tug upward. Do the same on the driver's side.

There is an access cover for the fuel pump. The fuel pump and fuel level gauge are the same unit along with the return fuel line.


It looks like the pressure tube is metal with a flare fitting. The return line has a section of rubber tube. I'm not sure if the pressure tube has a rubber section somewhere farther down.

There is also the EVAP tube located in the center of the tank, but I'm not sure if there is any access cover to it. The repair manual diagram shows the EVAP tube as metal until it reaches the front of the tank where there is a short section of rubber hose. It looks like you'd be able to see this from underneath without removing the tank, so if you remove this rubber hose you can drop the tank with the metal EVAP tube still attached to the tank. I believe the EVAP tube is visible along the top of the above picture.

There may be fittings for the pressure and return lines near the front of the tank that can be disconnected there rather than at the fuel pump.

For the non-pressure hoses, I recommend Gates hoses. They seem to match the original hoses the best. They should be 1/4 inch inner diameter.

1990 Corolla DX sedan, 4A-FE, 3-speed auto A131L
226,000 miles and counting...

1997 Corolla DX sedan, 7A-FE, 4-speed auto A245E
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post #8 of 13 Old 02-22-2017, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
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Thank You, DrZ
Mine looks a bit different.
The line to the left (with the single clamp), looks like it might be connected to a Nylon hose which goes down along the tank- and doesn't appear to have a clamp. It's difficult to see.

After I have a Closer Look under the car with a Good Bright Light... I may be able to verify it-
I'll most likely remove the hose at the tank- and replace the whole length, if that's what the problem is- and if that is possible.
I'm wondering if you can verify the size of the line?? Just seems that 1/4 might be small- I was thinking 5/16. ( I guess I'll get some of both at the parts store- since it's a 60km drive there and back).
I'm not sure what would happen if I used the incorrect size line (1/4 instead of 5/16 or Visa versa) .
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post #9 of 13 Old 02-22-2017, 08:19 AM
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Wow. A lot more corrosion than my desert car.

Those don't look like the original clamps. I don't believe Toyota ever uses those type of worm clamps.

I just replaced the return hoses under the hood at the fuel pressure regulator, under the throttle body and from the EVAP canister and 1/4 inch Gates hose fit perfectly. I'm kind of assuming the end at the tank should be the same size.

The pressure hose may be a different size and you'll need hose rated for the higher pressure for that. I'm surprised that your pressure hose appears to be held by 2 worm clamps. That can't be original.
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post #10 of 13 Old 02-22-2017, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks again, DrZ
I'm actually going out now to put it on ramps and attempt the repair.
It's always nice to know what you need before you begin!


I bought the car for $300.00
It wouldn't start and the owner said it had a Starter Problem.} I used another battery to jump it and it started no problem.

When I got the car home and checked the oil- there was not a drop on the dipstick...
Yes, it was Foolish to not have checked that before leaving and driving home 100 km. But the reason I didn't was because the car was on a steep slope in the Driveway, and I wouldn't have got a correct reading anyway.
You might remember my Thread about the Alternator/ Charging Light- which was the result of the wire broken off the plug for the alternator. ($5.00) I replaced the D.S. Door Handle ($25.00) Salvage Yard Prices.


Front Struts -Approx. $90.00 CAN-off eBay - I had to change the springs over )
$44.09 US/ SET + $12.12 Shipping + 12.52 Import Charges - to Canada from the U.S.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291007581379...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Probably into this for about ($420. CAN)


It's inspected until the end of May/17. Then it will need some body work in the Trunk and around the Front Quarter at the bottom and Rockers.
Thanks again Guys (hopefully not being chauvinist)!
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post #11 of 13 Old 02-22-2017, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Red face

Hopefully, a Job Completed.

The line to the left at the top of the tank, in the diagram , was leaking below the Flex hose, where it attached to the Metal Line (about 8"long)- (then to another Flex hose and metal line again....).


I noticed there was a clamp missing at the a section where it joined and put a clamp on it...
But that didn't solve the problem- there was Actually a Pin Hole in the steel line, where it attached into the holding bracket.
I removed the line at the top of the tank- pulled it out from the bottom- Cut the steel line and attached a longer flex hose.

I wasn't too keen on the clamps I used, but I don't see any leaks...
I'll give it a few days for the fumes to dissipate and see how it goes.

It had taken me about 2 hours in total...remove the seat/ access cover and Clean UP that Area/ up on ramps/ remove line at tank etc...
Happy I didn't have to drop the tank or replace any other sections!

And Yes DrZ It was the 1/4 line...

Everyone.

P.S. Something that was not mentioned in this Thread was Releasing the Pressure to the Fuel lines.
I hadn't done it on this repair - but, on my other car, what I had done when working on the fuel line - was open the Gas Cap to relieve the Pressure... Not sure if that was the Proper thing to do; but, at least it was an effort.
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Last edited by dmmackay; 02-22-2017 at 07:52 PM.
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post #12 of 13 Old 02-22-2017, 10:41 PM
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There generally shouldn't be any pressure in the gas tank. If there is, you have problems with the EVAP canister. There will be pressure in the lines, but it'll just spray out when you open up a line. This is to be expected.

Glad to hear you got it fixed!
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post #13 of 13 Old 02-23-2017, 07:28 AM
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You can apply vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator to relive some of the pressure from the pressure line, but you'll still have fuel in the lines that will spill out when you disconnect the hoses.
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