Help with Ping/"pre-detonation" Driving me Crazy!

[Bitter]

Originally Posted by Flashmn

Often times you wont even hear knock inside the cabin... seriously theres ALOT of misinformation in this thread, QUIT scaring him.

1) Possibly a loose heatshield (exhaust manifold, cat converter)
2) Busted cat/muffler
3) Possibly old plugs

And alot more possibilities,

Change the fuel filter first and check the vacuum hoses.
Shell V power is just full of marketing bullshit, its nothing more special than any other high octane gasoline. I personally dont buy that stuck ring stuff, I've seen piston rings in various conditions in various cars, even after detonation. I've never seen them stuck, unless piston was damaged by detonation so that it squished all the rings in the lands.

his detonation isnt sticking the rings, a bad design and oil not changed often enough is what sticks rings on the early 1zzfe's. i've seen plenty of engines of all types with stuck rings, the only symptoms were poor running and low compression. ford escort 1.9's (the CVH engine) are notorious for sludging oil and sticking rings, its an even bigger issue than the 1zzfe's that do that. anyways, i think that if he is getting detontion its likely a product of his oil burning. 2qts of oil per 3000 miles without any wet spots on the engine means its being burnt through the engine and on an early 1zzfe the most likely culprit are stuck oil control and 2nd compression rings on one or more cylinders.

[tmindeman]

I have an o1 with the same problem on pinging at lower speeds. The pinging lessoned by a upper intake cleanout job at the dealer however, still doing it and most of all the dying upon startup. I am looking at the maf - mass airflow sensor.

[2000corollaaz]

We've tried many things since, it has quieted but is still there.

[tmindeman]

My o1 has the exact same symptom.

[MattAveli]

i had the burning oil problem too but it's gone now, all i did was have new valve seals and piston rings installed.

[JoeKneale]

First determine that it is preignition by using 94 and seeing if the sound is gone or lessened if it is then the problem has to be:
-ignition timing
-fuel injection system
-spark plugs/wires/distributor components
-EGR valve
-vacuum leak
-and Check the oil filter for the VVTI control solenoid and make sure it isnt blocked and f*cking with your cam timing (causing preignition possibly but unlikely).

If fuel grade does not affect the car then look at the outboard cv joints (only making sound at a certain speed interval, not load range would be indicitave of cvs because the engine doesnt do anything different at 4,500rpm in 1st gear than 4,500rpm in 3rd - the 65-70mph range I am assuming). Other symptoms of bad CVs are clicking or chirping when turning in tightly (especially with the brakes applied).

let us know, thanks!

[joeyicu]

im with flash, you guys are working him up with loads of misinformation, we need to chill out with the slinging of parts all over the place

predetonation is also described as knock, knock is the description of the sound that predetonation may or may not be causing.

the theory on carbon buildup kinda sorta doesn't fly, ya burning oil may let a little bit more nasty stuff buildup in the motor, but i don't think it would be enough to cause a knock sound threw out the rev range unless a bottom end component was failed and some sort of mechanical contact was happening, witch would have been caused by low oil level

my car burns 6 quarts of oil in a 3k mileage span, doesn't ping one bit. i just add oil and let her rip

with diagnosing a car fault you have to start with the basic stuff, symptom, to system, to component, to cause, because if you do toss a part on the car and it fixes it, what caused it to go bad int he first place, how do we know this is not a temporary fix, a proper procedure must be used to do this correctly

Joe is on the right path with what he said as is flash but we need to start from the beginning

is the Check Engine Light Illuminated? if so has this been checked into at all?

[tmindeman]

check engine light on and off, allready has new plugs, fuel filter, had fuel system pressure check, timing is not adjustable on this vehicle, plugs wires are not replaceable as they are a harness system, a buddy sprayed the engine looking for vac leaks and found no change in idle.

What am I looking for in the oil filter solenoid?
thanks for your input

[joeyicu]

Originally Posted by tmindeman

check engine light on and off, allready has new plugs, fuel filter, had fuel system pressure check, timing is not adjustable on this vehicle, plugs wires are not replaceable as they are a harness system, a buddy sprayed the engine looking for vac leaks and found no change in idle.

What am I looking for in the oil filter solenoid?
thanks for your input

timing is adjusted threw the computer,by changing when the spark plug fires, not threw changing where a distributer sits, like earlier cars. it is adjustable, just not by you

you need to find out what the stored code is in the car and go from there

take it to a local autozone and have them read all your codes, write down every code pulled from the car