Hey guys, new to this site, I am in the process of turbocharging my 1ZZ (2001 Corolla) and I thought I would open a thread here to share the progress. I have everything I need en route (exciting - just in time for the snow!), and I plan on developing and tuning this combination over the winter months. The plan is to possibly share my learning curve and reseller savings on to whoever is interested next spring. I would like to get a dialogue going but here is the basic stat sheet:
Based on what I am spending the complete deal should be priced around $1340, I can't give up all my info, but this is not this cheap because it is a bunch of Chinese junky parts! I spent a bit of time coming up with the most efficient set-up possible (with regards to the wallet and the fun pedal ).
FUEL (good to 340+bhp)
1zz-fe factory fuel system unmolested
supplementary (additional) injector controller
1000cc additional injector, all lines, fittings, bung, and brackets
195 fuel pump
*Possibility of using a supplemental fuel cell so premium gas is used only when under boost
TURBO
all exhaust pieces, fittings, hardware to connect
turbocharger (exact unit not to be disclosed yet)
all oil fittings and accessories
intake and clever filter solution
2.0" charge pipes with premium silicone couplers & clamps
I am going to try to get this on my personal vehicle very soon. I will keep everyone posted as parts come in and work is done on the vehicle. Feel free to e-mail me @ JoeKneale@Gmail.com, my name is Joe, Thanks!
Injectors dont tell the whole truth... You can play around with injectors with pressure and injection time.
First of all the stock fuel system will be a bottleneck, you want a FPR that refrences from boost, IIRC the stock 1ZZ-FE system doesnt have a return line.
Using an additonal fuel cell with premium doesnt help.
That 195 fuel pump is probably gonna come off short, get aleast a 255 HP walbro/MSD, those are what most use. Better to have a pump thats overkill, than something that will end up short in a critical moment.
Sorry for the confusion - it is a single 1000cc injector in addition to the factory 260's, equal to putting in a set of 450s. It is much cheaper to run one big single than a set of four of the "narrow" injectors that monkeywrench racing or power enterprise sell. I know I may get some flak for going the extra injector route but I figure if it is good enough for the TRD supercharger @ 7.5lbs and offer a warranty it is good enough for me (granted a twin screw has different properties with regards to atomization than a turbo, but thats why I am testing this whole deal out with an egt, and individual 02 probes before i think about installing it on someone elses car - if its necessary it will still be cheaper for me to install a set of four extra bosch style injectors in the runners, probably 30#lb units). As for the 340+bhp, that is what the fuel system should support but this is going into a stock motor at around 7lbs so I figure I have waaaaaaaaaay more fuel than I need until i build the motor and turn up the boost. I did this on purpose to give it a one size fits all fuel solution that wont have to be retuned. The reason for the smaller than traditional charge pipes is because there is going to be a good bit of piping and at 7.5lbs it is more important to me to minimize pressure loss and have good bottom end torque than try to provide enough charge pipe for a wicked upper end that just isnt there at this boost level, or natural to a motor with smaller sized factory intake and exhaust ports, valves, and runners. Sorry about the confusing layout of the first post, i was going to edit but decided what the heck.
ok. so an additional 1000cc injector is good for 7.5 psi. but 7.5 psi wont even break 200 horsepower with a 1zzfe. in my opinion theres no way you will produce even 250 horsepower with what you have listed so far. a stock sti or evo doesnt even put out 340 hp and there boosting like 12-18 pounds stock. and those engines are built for "racing"
I know from my experience with DSMs that 18psi can make 400 brake horsepower if you do it right, however It is a fact that even 250 bhp would destroy a stock 1zz pretty quickly. The head on the 1zz has some narrow ports and small valves, but before we start talking about making 400 horsepower in a corolla lets remember that it is a corolla. I inherited my car, but later found out it is worth about $6,000. It doesn't make sense to dump $2,500 on motor work, $1,500 building the transmission, $1,500 on heads, $1,000 on rubber and suspension mods to be able to hold 300 power let alone what a traditional turbo kits can cost ($2,800+). Why spend $8,000 on a car worth $6k? You can have alot of fun with 200hp/200ft lbs trq, and for my money the extra horsepower after that point isnt worth the extra coin or the loss in practicality (the main reason to drive a corolla). I plan on spending less than $1,500 for all the mods I do to the car, my goal is to run a solid 14. I think sometimes people get dichotomic thinking when it comes to making power or boost, either go all out or give up and run 17's, I guess i'd like to find some grey area - if the price is right (if you are interested in the big budget capabilities of the 1zz check out the monkeywrench racing site).
well before you were talking about making 340 hp with ur corolla. not 200. 200 would be a pretty legit goal in my opinion but not 340. and the only reason people get dichotomic about boosting a corolla is cuz they suck. they werent meant to be boosted. 14 pounds would eat a 1zz head
in my opinion theres no way you will produce even 250 horsepower with what you have listed so far. a stock sti or evo doesnt even put out 340 hp and there boosting like 12-18 pounds stock. and those engines are built for "racing"
Yes, they also have alot lower compression, which does make things a bit harder on the toyota side. However if you see the honda crowd, then you'll notice if you can provide enough fueling you can have high compression and high boost.
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however It is a fact that even 250 bhp would destroy a stock 1zz pretty quickly. The head on the 1zz has some narrow ports and small valves, but before we start talking about making 400 horsepower in a corolla lets remember that it is a corolla.
Port size and valve size dont have anything to do with the engine getting destroyed, maybe I misunderstood that part of the post. ALSO 250hp wont destroy anything if you know what you're doing. I'm planning on getting about that much at some point from my 4A-F(TE).
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I inherited my car, but later found out it is worth about $6,000
I bought my car for 2500 and spent ~7k on the mods and other stuff and some servicing.
Even if you make over 200 hp, the motor won't last long. You'll have to build the internals to withstand the boost. Crower rods, low compression Wiseco pistons, and MWR iron sleeves come to mind.
ive heard that you can run high compression with boost and you dont need as much boost to reach lets say 200 hp. whereas if you had lower compression pistons you would have to push more boost and possibly lose throttle response. idk maybe thats a myth.
im a dreamer. but also a realist. and since you say your on a budget my realist side is kicking in and saying you wont hit 200 with "$1340" very safely.
if a turbo is matched to a motor correctly turbo lag is not a problem, you just have to find the turbocharger that is volumetrically efficient enough at high and low rpms in comparison to your motor
slowrolla37, he said he was making a fuel system capable of suporting thatkind of power
a 195 pump at 7psi with a 1.8L toyota motor should be enough i would think, the 255 pump may be overkill, and since this is a budget setup, with no intentions to make power beyond what this setup will put out once done, it should be sufficient, but then again i don't think there is a big price difference, i haven't checked on the price of the walboro pumps in a few years so im not up and coming with my information
__________________ -<2001 Chevrolet 2500HD 6.6L 5A 4x4>-14.6@88mph - Edge Juice Chip, Cut Muffler -<1990 Nissan 300zx NA 5M 2+0>-
Stillen Catback, Kenwood HU
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