I'm the proud owner of a 2001 Corolla. Recently found out my engine is on it's way out the door. Dealer (with oil consumption tests) and what not has reported that my engine needs to be replaced or overhauled. I'm burning oil and on my current path I'm due to be billowing blue smoke.
I love this car. The design is what I like the most, on top of the sporty sound it has. I'm not in a place to repair it, nor do the people around me think it's worth it.
My question is: Are there people in the business of car collecting seeking 2001 Corollas? Would be more profitable to sell it privately when I move to get a new car later on in life, or just dealer trade in this thing.
I throw around ideas of dropping a standard transmission into it, a new engine and stuff, but it's money I don't have; being in college still and young.
I'm the proud owner of a 2001 Corolla. Recently found out my engine is on it's way out the door. Dealer (with oil consumption tests) and what not has reported that my engine needs to be replaced or overhauled. I'm burning oil and on my current path I'm due to be billowing blue smoke.
I love this car. The design is what I like the most, on top of the sporty sound it has. I'm not in a place to repair it, nor do the people around me think it's worth it.
My question is: Are there people in the business of car collecting seeking 2001 Corollas? Would be more profitable to sell it privately when I move to get a new car later on in life, or just dealer trade in this thing.
I throw around ideas of dropping a standard transmission into it, a new engine and stuff, but it's money I don't have; being in college still and young.
Any advice is welcomed.
Thanks!
-Joe/OBLCDio
Same here - love the design, the multilink rear suspension, and how easy it comes apart.
If you're fixing it, get it done early. If you waited and it does spew blue smoke, you may ruin your cat and it's even more $$$.
Without connections and doing the job myself, my manual swap cost me $2700. You may have better luck though. Add another few hundred for a new (used) engine or a rebuild.
Selling privately will net you more $$ in your pocket. Some dealers here claims they need to deduct taxes from our trade in value. But the wisdom on trade-in is: negotiate your new car price, don't consider financing at this point, then negotiate your trade-in. Get these two numbers finalized before working out financing. This should stop them from playing number games. Remember, you're not shopping for car payments.
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Little Pig - 1999 Corolla LE - Manual Swap - 2001 front end - #138 @ CASC-OR Autoslalom 2012
Big Pig - 1997 Camry LE - need new tires, rear struts and alignment
Skinny Pig - 2010 devinci St-Tropez
A lot of 01 corollas burn oil but thats no reason to rebuild the engine unless its really bad. Autorx has helped a lot of people stop their oil burning. How much is it burning? How many miles on it? We all know its not uncommon for dealers to recommend service thats not needed is why Im asking.
There are guys who would buy it who enjoy fixing them and driving them or even reselling them for a little profit but youre not going to get high dollars for it since there's no high demand for them.
Stop, and take a deep breath. First, change the oil and filter and make sure it is at the full mark when you are done. Record the mileage. (The reason I say change the oil is that for some reason these cars seem to burn more oil when it is dirty vs. when it is clean). Now, each time you fill the gas tank, check the oil. When it is down to the add line, record the mileage again. Subtract the two numbers and report back with the result. If you aren't burning more than a quart in 600 miles, run the car as is and add oil as necessary. It will still last a long time before a rebuild is necessary. I've seen these cars use a quart every 800 miles when they have only 60,000 miles on them and they don't use any more than that when they have 200,000 miles on them. By all means, please do not blindly trust the dealer. Verify for yourself how bad the oil consumption is before you do anything.
On the RSi 20v Corolla it's normal to be burning oil when in VVT all the time which is most of the time anywayz.. blue smoke is not good & in most cases leads to oil rings or valve stem seals.. no need to replace the entire motor, just change the rings & seals. Another thing is if the oil is too thick there's major wear on the motor.. don't use just any viscosity as it could result in a bearing knock or worse... do this.. use motor flush & drain out the oil .. get 10 -40w or 10 - 60w oil. BTW look at the colour of the oil after draining & check if there is a rainbow colour or filings or water or coolant.. fill in new clean thin oil & tell us what you noticed. Driving her in that condition could have done further damage.
Sounds good. Thanks for the advice. I'll get to recording the data and let you know. I can't exactly change my own oil; I don't have the clearance under the car to do it.
I have welcomed putting oil in it as necessary, and I check the oil regularly. I think the dealer said I was burning 1.5 quarts for 900 miles. Thanks for the input, I'll record what I find and report back when I can.
Something to consider, you could do like I did and buy a two ton jack, jack stands, oil pan, and oil funnel to start changing the oil yourself. It would cost around $100 which could be recovered in 3 oil changes the way prices are now. Saves money in the long run and you know its done right without anyone messing your car up.
I quite agree, I once knew nothing about cars & now I can build them from scratch Turbo appz, Styling & servicing etc so give it a try & if you get stuck.. give us a shout.. once upon a time it cost me R5500 for a clutch change on my car & now it's R800 because I do it myself.
Just be disciplined about adding oil as needed. Keep a quart in the trunk and add as needed at every fillup. Once its a habit its a piece of cake. If you keep it topped off, the car should last a long while.
autorx is a superb product - try that too - follow the directions.
I personally like to keep the oil in my garage and check the level when the engine is cold for an accurate reading. I usually find that quarts leak some around the seals too so I'd prefer them to leak on a shelf at home than in the car. That way you can just fill up with gas at the station and go, but mine doesnt burn oil bad either and it would be best to keep a quart handy in that situation.
I have another concern. When it rains heavily, and especially on roads that have a decent amount of water in them, the engine (when accelerating) will..sound like it's running through water. If any of you have ever used Hobby sized remote controlled boats. Sorta like that sound. Curious if it's the engine or my exhaust getting water in it. Even then, should that happen? Would it be a hole somewhere?
I own a hobby sized boat & know what you are talking about however what is your concern? The exhaust blows out waste & should not be sucking in the water.. at the knuckle you should have a sheild the same with your motor.. this prevents water damage (Splash plate) if you have a leak in the exhaust then you will hear it.
BTW I like the look on your car.. very different to SA's edition.
So just to confirm, youre not having any loss of acceleration or engine sputtering along with it when that happens?
Btw how many miles are on it?
Not that I can feel, engine moves fine. Just sounds like it's underwater.
I just broke 80200 miles. It's a young car for a Toyota Engine. My dad had two of them, same model (I forget which) back in 95, both of em saved his life on the highway.
Well then I wouldnt have a clue why thats happening. If its driving fine without hesitation or triggering the CEL then its likely not much to worry about. Maybe someone else will know why it sounds that way though.
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A little advice for a 01 Corolla
But the wisdom on trade-in is: negotiate your new car price, don't consider financing at this point, then negotiate your trade-in. Get these two numbers finalized before working out financing. This should stop them from playing number games. Remember, you're not shopping for car payments.
anywayz.. blue smoke is not good & in most cases leads to oil rings or valve stem seals.. no need to replace the entire motor, just change the rings & seals. Another thing is if the oil is too thick there's major wear on the motor.. don't use just any viscosity as it could result in a bearing knock or worse... do this.. use motor flush & drain out the oil .. get 10 -40w or 10 - 60w oil. BTW look at the colour of the oil after draining & check if there is a rainbow colour or filings or water or coolant.. fill in new clean thin oil & tell us what you noticed. Driving her in that condition could have done further damage.
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