First off, it's NOT about the money, and it's NOT about the speed. All you are probably going to be like WTF? What an idiot! But, here's what I plan on doing.
(Boosting the 1ZZ-FE) I have a 99 Chevrolet Prizm with 204K miles. 1ZZ-FE, VVT-i. I just want a little more power and MPG. I am talking about boosting it, but I don't want 300 whp or anything, I am probably looking at 180 crank hp, maybe 140-50 at the wheels. (More is better obviously, but realistically without rebuilding the trans and such, I think 150 whp is the most I can go reliably). Anyway, small turbo or supercharger, but enough to keep it fun and reliable. I already drive a modified WRX so, making it the meanest baddest machine out there is not the point. It's all about sentimental value (the Prizm was my first car 5 years ago).
Anyway, I can't find any real consistent information on boosting a 1ZZ-FE engine, nor can I find any useful information on how well automatics hold up to power. I don't want a 5spd conversion (time and money, and I like automatics for daily drivers), and I don't want to dump a ton of money (over $2,000) into it. I am already replacing the hood, headlights, wheels (because of a fender bender) and the headliner and a lot of the interior. I just want a to know if what options I have on boosting my Prizm safely. If there are any kits out there, that would be nice. I heard about turbonation kits, and that they aren't worth the box they are shipped in, so anything else would be nice. I am looking for a small turbo, and for ease and economy. Preferably spending $1,500-$2,000 and being done with the turbo.
(MISC) If anyone has info on installing power windows, and locks, that would be nice. I don't care if it means buying 4 power window doors and locks from the J-yard and wiring it up, that's fine. But if there is a kit available, that would be great.
So, in short:
I'd like 150 whp (ish)
For $2K max.
I'd also like to know if anyone knows about:
Adding on Power Windows and Locks
5 lug hub conversions
Other effective and relatively inexpensive mods.
Does the 1ZZ FE really take that well to mods? I know it's about 120 hp (crank) stock, so probably 95 something at the wheels or less. If that's all I have to do for 50 whp, I'd be all over it. I once dropped a CAI in my Taurus (epitome of stupid) and I only gained 3 hp, so that was the kind of hp gains I was expecting with this car.
Anyway, I am all over cheap mods right now, I've got some money to spend on it. Let me know what else works well.
ask jody, he has a 175hp manual dyno chart, and hes supposedly "not done yet"
Numerous inconsistencies and vagueness in his testaments regarding his build automatically invalidates those claims. Those dyno pulls he previously posted weren't on commonly used Mustang or Dynojet dynos or from an accredited tuning shop, which are viewed to be the standard. The results aren't even remotely close to being understandable.
Those who are less knowledgeable might fall for it, but I, for one, don't believe it one bit.
Any other credible sources you can point me to?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBO Das Automagazin
A BRZ, a curvy mountain road makes one liter of happiness hormones.
150HP for less than $2000. Possible, but you have to really shop around.
Even engine management and tuning - which you will need if you pursue the forced induction idea - will set you back at least $500, if all new parts. Maybe you can find an EMS used for less than $200 or so - but might take you a while to build up the car in that manner.
Even the wideband sensor (good start for street tune and general health of the system) - start at a few hundred for a the sensor and gauge. Going turbo would also mean some fabrication. Don't want to skimp on this - get someone that can weld correctly. Nothing worse to be bother with little details that will sour a good build, like a leaky exhaust or broken hangers, brackets, etc.
A preconfigured low pressure turbo kit and tuning will run you pretty much $2K (assuming you will do the install). Turbokits have revised their kits - so they should be better than before. There are few 8th gens running around with their kit on. Stafford Engineering was the other for 8th gen - some liked them, for others - it became a nightmare build.
Piece-mealing one together might save some money - but could take you a while to gather the pieces. Depends on how soon you want this done. Too often I hear of someone piece together a system only to sell it a few months down the road - due to unforseen expenses or they wrecked the car.
As far as durability - the engine will take it OK - the key is the tune. You can touch 200WHP with stock internals and a good tune, or blow your stuff to pieces on a so so 50HP boost on a half-a$$ tune. With over 200K on the clock - I would be a little more worried. I would definitely not boost that without tearing down the engine for a look first. Don't want to spend all the time and money boosting it only to have the timing chain or oil pump let go on the first couple of hard pulls.
Transaxle will be the weak spot. Automatics will have trouble with any close to 200HP, 5-speeds are better - but have to resort to some beefy clutches/pressure plates. With 150WHP - axles should be fine, unless you get too much wheel hop. Upgrades to the motor mounts and auxillary cooling (oil cooler, tranny cooler if automatic) would highly be recommended.
Another option to forced induction - especially if you shoot for the 150WHP mark - build up some aspects of the motor (go all-motor). Cams, EMS, I/H/E, enlarged throttle body (bored or swap out), P&P - might be able to free up enough to hit your target. Considerably less stressful than a forced induction package and a lot less work in the end. Outlay of money is about the same - but setup smartly - could be a real sleeper.
Numerous inconsistencies and vagueness in his testaments regarding his build automatically invalidates those claims. Those dyno pulls he previously posted weren't on commonly used Mustang or Dynojet dynos or from an accredited tuning shop, which are viewed to be the standard. The results aren't even remotely close to being understandable.
Those who are less knowledgeable might fall for it, but I, for one, don't believe it one bit.
Same here I dont either and Ive seen another poster say the same so thats at least 3 of us who are skeptical that Im aware of.
I'll want to see two sets of data - dyno graph, and gas mileage on the 2008 EPA test cycle. One Dynojet should be able to do both.
Because I want to be able to gain some power and still exceed 35mpg.
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Little Pig - 1999 Corolla LE - Manual Swap - 2001 front end - #138 @ CASC-OR Autoslalom 2012
Big Pig - 1997 Camry LE - need new tires, rear struts and alignment
Skinny Pig - 2010 devinci St-Tropez
So, already, it looks like the boosting is going to total up over $2K, I can already see it happening. I've been around the block doing enough projects to know that $2K on paper is $3K in real life and twice the pain in the @$$ ever anticipated. Fabrication is doable, but not my specialty, and with work, I'd scarcely be able to find the time to get that done. I guess I was hoping for the "This company has a good bolt on kit for $1,500, and the stock internals should hold up to 150 whp just fine." the case with my Dodge.
I think I am going to go the N/A engine route, except, build the engine up. At 205K, this engine is pretty tired, but still runs alright. Just a couple of weeks ago it started to backfire a little and shudder at idle. So, it will need a rebuild, so I may as well overhaul the engine and tune it well. I know a guy in the Dodge club I used to be in who took a Plymouth Sundance V6 and rebuilt the engine using Mitsubishi Diamante forged internals, cams, I/H/E and managed 210 whp after all was said and done for about $1500. So, that sounds like the way to go (considering the fact that I need a rebuild anyway), and maybe later, boost it on top of all that. I am kind of addicted to boost because of my WRX. 240 hp boosted is a lot more fun than 307 hp N/A (comparing my previous car). If I didn't need a paint job, hood, two doors, a new set of wheels and tires, and new brakes, I'd probably drop all that money to a rebuild and a turbo, but....the car has it's issues already.
And thank you everyone for the input, it helps.
P.S. I know that MR2's have a 3VZ-FE swap option that's pretty easy. How about the Corollas/Prizms? Anybody ever tried? Sounds like a fun car if they exist...
PHATROYALE, no comment. Next time i will take pix of my car on the dyno since everyone likes to talk ish..
If thats directed at those of us who are skeptical about your posts, it's not talking trash on our part it's just telling it like it is. There's a difference between being offensive and being frank. I saw no trash talking and I believe there was no offense meant just calling it like we see it. We could always be wrong but its our opinion so far, nothing more. As for me Im plain spoken but I do try to do so respectfully so no harm meant on my end you can be certain and I for one would appreciate respect also. If you have been lying in your posts you cant expect people to respect you very much though because thats disrespecting us. Your car is nice and there is no reason to lie about anything if thats what has been going on. Again, no offense meant just being straight.
Could someone point me towards a thread or website that has some good info on some internals for the engine? I am getting ready to pull the engine soon.
I am looking to put in some quality (sturdy) cams, valves, rods, pistons, etc... I just want to put in a really strong set of internals and a durable set of gaskets.
P.S. Again, does anyone have any info on dropping in a V6?
Thanks
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