Need help with codes PO441 and PO446; check engine light on
Hi, totally new here. I have a 99 corolla ce manual transmission. My son had just fixed some other codes on the car check engine light was off for 5 days then came back on.
Codes PO441; evaporative emission control system incorrect purge flow
code PO446: evaporative emission control system vent control circuit malfunction
My son doesn't have any idea even where to look for the purge valve. Any help you can give me would be appreciated.
I need to get it inspected and it won't pass with the check engine light on. Also I'm leaving in 5 days and will be putting about 3000 miles on the car. Can either of these codes cause the car to break down. It seems to be running fine I'm having him put new spark plugs on cause now and then it seems to miss. Thx
Those are EVAP codes - they are emissions related and generally will pose no serious issue to the car. But, in areas that smog cars, having any EVAP codes (CEL for that matter) is an automatic failure.
Most of the time, those codes can be traced back to a purge valve or leaking vacuum lines on the vapor canister (black plastic box underneath the car, right infront of the gas tank. In a few of the cases, the vapor canister is either cracked or completely saturated with fuel. Ususally as a result of topping off the gas tank on fillup (should never top off the tank in this car).
But the EVAP system is fairly complex - those same codes could relate to any leak in the system from the VSV valve under the hood (look for the green cap on a hose, next to the airbox uder the hood) all the way back to the vapor canister and its associated hoses and valves, to the fuel fill line to a cutoff valve on top of the gas tank itself. Easiest way to find a leak is to smoke check the EVAP system - only a shop has the necessary equipment to do that. Due to the specialized equipment and amount of time/effort to diagnose this issue - many times, it is easier to have a shop diagnose the problem, and you can fix it yourself. Valves runs about $50-$75 bucks - hoses are pretty cheap, vapor canister runs from $150-$350, depending on where you get them.
Stay away from any shops that scan the ECM, pull the codes, and say - X component is bad, we need to replace it. You cannot diagnose this sort of problem with a handheld scanner - you need to test the whole system, check every valve, check every hose. Most shops don't like doing the diagnostic work - since it is so labor intensive - they rather just swap parts in, usually at the expense of your wallet.
I had identical codes on and off over several years on my 2002 - usually they pop up a week or two before my e-check every other year. I took it to a local Toyota dealership - they smoke tested the system under their standard diagnostic fee ($85). First time to a cut-off valve ($30 part) - they wanted about $350 parts and labor - did it myself in about 3 hours for just the cost of the part. Second time - they traced it to a bad VSV on the vapor canister. They wanted about $450 - since they wanted to change the canister too - I just changed the valve ($70) and it has been fine since (knock-on wood).
I just went through this out here in CA. My check engine light has been on for about a year. I checked all the fluids and they where all OK so I figure I can live with the light. Then crap !... Smog check time !! I went to the Smog place and they told me they would clear the code but if after I drove the car for an hour and if the light came on I would have had to do fix it. The light did not come on until 2 hours after the test. The odd thing is that the car passed with great numbers.
I would drive it to get it hot then take it to see if they can do the same as they did for me. Good luck.
Yes, the light is still on. It's a 99 I'm not going to spend money to fix some thing that non crucial. Smog checked with great numbers so as long as it does not affect the engine I don't care. I'll worry again in two years for the next Smog check. If I get tired of the light I'll just unplug the bulb. Dingo
This would depend on how they smog the car. Some places will run the car on a "treadmill" or dynometer and measure tailpipe emissions. Others just plug in a scanner and query the I/M readiness. Driving around for a couple of hours will not set the I/M readiness - as it needs a certain number of driving cycles to set - usually a couple of days of normal driving.
ok well ill tell u how to FIX this problem for good. because i had the same problem and it will cost u about 30 bucks and like hour hour and half to fix depending on if in driveway or lift. u need to get the VSV switching valve from toyota its a special order so dont expect the dealer to have it . these codes are thrown because of where the canister is located in the back under the gas tank and if u live were salt and sand is ur screwed. the code is 90080-91186 for the part , its within the charcoal canister its a pain in the ass to replace. u need to bend this braket to access the one bolt that holds it in. or if u want to u can order a whole new canister which goes for like 300 and that code is Mfg Part Number: 77740-02102 its up to u when ur smog comes around again
Maybe I should try changing my Vapor can .. I've had a check engine light on for the past 2 yrs. I've changed my Cat. I even have a whole new engine. I just cant figure out where the hell the problem is. Maybe it's something as simple as the vapor canister. Will try to fix and see if it turns off CEL.
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Should smoke test the car - they pressurize the EVAP system and run smoke through it. Then by using a wand to detect any smoke, they can pinpoint a leak in the EVAP. Also - there are several VSV valves, alluded to by the previous poster - sometimes they go bad, sometimes they "stick" and not completely open or close when required. The 8th gen Corolla is also a little picky about EVAP issues - relocating the vapor canister and a slight ECM change on the 9th gen Corolla pretty much eliminated the EVAP related codes that many 8th gen Corollas had. They could be set by a bad VSV vavel, leaking vacuum line, cracked or clogged vapor canister, or in my case a cutoff valve on the top of the tank.
ok well ill tell u how to FIX this problem for good. because i had the same problem and it will cost u about 30 bucks and like hour hour and half to fix depending on if in driveway or lift. u need to get the VSV switching valve from toyota its a special order so dont expect the dealer to have it . these codes are thrown because of where the canister is located in the back under the gas tank and if u live were salt and sand is ur screwed. the code is 90080-91186 for the part , its within the charcoal canister its a pain in the ass to replace. u need to bend this braket to access the one bolt that holds it in. or if u want to u can order a whole new canister which goes for like 300 and that code is Mfg Part Number: 77740-02102 its up to u when ur smog comes around again
the vacuum switching valve assy in the engine compartment is 25860-0D010, two 10mm bolts I think and work the two hoses off, 5 minutes. Part was $65 but my code is still on.
the vacuum switching valve assy in the engine compartment is 25860-0D010, two 10mm bolts I think and work the two hoses off, 5 minutes. Part was $65 but my code is still on.
this is the one u replaced right
that was the wrong one, the one in the engine bay never goes bad its the one under the car in the back by the gas tank that goes bad. beleive me i already changed it and the code is gone its a pain u need to unplug ever hose in the whole canister. i went to toyota said i needed the code i posted which is a new code it is a replacement one becauase of this problem we all have but once i orderd it came next day installed and good as new code gone. i have an open canister if u want me to show u where its located in a picture
yah its not the one u changed like i said its the one under the car
here is what it looks like
then here is a picture of the whole charcoal canister but with the sensor not attached
and i show u what metal bracket u need to bend
i hope this helps its a pain in the ass U i did it with jack stands but if u can get to a lift that will deff make it so much easier, need to take off almost every hose on the canister b4 u can get to the bracket and the screw. also find the smallest right angle phillips u can.
theres also a lil hing that u need to get in the slot to get it to fit right
u can see it on this picture
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The odd thing is that the car passed with great numbers.
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