I'm getting a leak that is about a drop every 5 seconds from the transmission and it's coming from the passenger side axle. Is it possible that the axle just isn't jammed in all the way? What else could cause this? How do I fix it? Kind of in a jam right now...
by the way, is it possible there is too much tranny fluid in there? i put in 8 quarts and 1 quart of stop leak after i noticed it was initially leaking. is that way too much? we just replaced the tranny and it was bone dry, so i put in a lot.
Check the fluid level with the transmission in park and the car running on level ground. Once up to operating temperatures, should be between the two notches. A transaxle that is bone dry will take about 8 quarts to fill it up. ALso don't for get to run it through the gears (foot on brake pedal) run through all the positions - pausing for at least 10-20 seconds in each to make sure the fluid has run through completely through. Also note, that 3-speeds use a separate reseroir and drain for fluid - something like 6.5 quarts in the main, and 1.5 quarts in the differential. That has to be filled from the differential, not connected to the dipstick tube.
As for the the leaking - could be from a number of areas - most likely to be from a loose axle, bad axle seal, cracked transmission case, or overfilled transaxle.
its way above the two notches. i'm thinking it's way overfilled. i bought 4q of fluid and 1qt of stop leak just to be safe. i'm going to drain it, then refill it.
are there two places to drain the fluid, like 1 in the bellhousing case, and 1 in the tranny pan? or is it just the one bolt in the transmission pan?
8 quarts?! That seems extremely high! I'll assume your runnin an auto tranny, since my manual tranny takes just over 2 quarts.. Since its an auto, there should be a dipstick for it. Check the fluid level WITH THE CAR RUNNING and note that each side of the dipstick should say hot or cold for temp. Definitely, do not run excess fluid. And it sounds like the shop who did your tranny did not install the passenger side axle-seal properly, and/or did not use a dust cover. The seal is cheap and fairly easy to install, with the exception of removing the drive axle. Removing mine were a total pain in the azz. Take a close look. Does the seal seem to sit flush in its hole or is it crooked or damaged in any way? a metal dust cover should be installed as a cap on top of the seal, do you see it there? My thoughts: First, take it back to the tranny place and have them fix it; its their fault. Second, you may be able to fix it if the seal isn't seated properly/pushed in squarely, just be careful not to push it in too far! And third, if the seal was installed properly but without a dust cover, its possible that the elements got to the sealing surfaces and, well, form a leak.
yeah that's what i was thinking too... in total i put in about 9qts... i just drained it though and almost filled up a 7qt pan, so taking into consideration the leak, that's probably about right.
i called the toyota dealership and they said about 4qts should do it... so i'm going to start with 2qt, measure the dipstick, go to 3, measure, 4, measure, etc, til i get where it should be.
is it possible since the leak is coming from where the axle slips into the transmission that i just need a new differential oil seal? like this: http://shop.oreillyauto.com/productd...tNumber=710416 or an input shaft seal?
Yes, that's the seal I was chatting about, and yes, I think PROPER replacement of the seal should solve your problem (check for scoring of your sealing surfaces while your there). Each side of the tranny has a different sized seal, so make sure you get the right one. The dust covers come from the toyota dealer (mine cost about $3.00, and the cover gets destroyed while prying out the axle). If your gonna do it, drain your tranny fluid, remove slash shield, loosen hub nut (mine took a special 1 3/16" (30mm) deep socket), then raise vehicle on jackstands, remove wheel, remove hub nut, hammer the axle a little to brake the axle loose from the wheel hub, disconnect control arm and push axle through the hub, then pry your axle out. My axles took a lot of force to pry out. I had to raise my car nearly 4' off the ground in order to get a large enough prybar under there.. good luck!
Also, a 1 1/2" diameter piece of pvc pipe to install the new seal. Careful with it! When I installed mine, I accidentally released the little circular spring on the inside lip of the seal. I had to buy a new seal and reinstall it a second time because of it (the seal gets damaged during removal)! You basically only get one shot to do it right. Also, the part your looking at is the rear main oil seal for the crankshaft. Although similar, you want the passenger side axle seal.
im so friggin tired working on cars. i took the stupid thing in to sears. 190$ to fix w/ parts and labor. lameness. oh well. they're fixing both seals and replacing dust shields as well.
Honestly, the drive-axles were one of the most frustrating tasks out of my entire engine pull/ rebuild project. $190 out of pocket sucks, but hopefully that will bring your problems to a close before your tranny gets damaged.
i'm sellin the car anyhow, i just don't want any leaks. the tranny is in good shape and it drives like a champ, just that stupid leak. i must have f'd up the seals or didn't replace them in the new tranny when i put it back in.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Linear Mode
